Build Thread Frankenstang- Eaton M112 5.0 - Ice cold AC and 11PSI

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Steel1

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Aug 18, 2017
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Amazon, picked the better looking one that were rated well. Going to do my own pin check before installing.
Would be great if you could keep us updated on how you make out with the pigtails and what/how it needed to be repined.
Thinking about doing the same for my PimpXS.
 

a91what

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No problem, I wish i could have gotten away with just changing the connectors to ev6 by crimping on new terminals and building each connector. Some of my injectors need the extra length in the harness so splicing on a pre-made pigtail made the most sense.
I have no idea how many pins need to be moved on the extension harness yet so i will try and document that as well as i can for you.
 

Sparky714

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No problem, I wish i could have gotten away with just changing the connectors to ev6 by crimping on new terminals and building each connector. Some of my injectors need the extra length in the harness so splicing on a pre-made pigtail made the most sense.
I have no idea how many pins need to be moved on the extension harness yet so i will try and document that as well as i can for you.
It's not too bad to re-pin. maybe 10 or 12 that had to move. There are some that are jumpered to multiple pins if I remember right, so check carefully. Unfortunately, I didn't document it very well when I did it or I would post it here.
 

a91what

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My head feels like it is full of concrete, I have a terrible flu..... when I get sick I'm like a giant child, I dont wanna do nothing. But I decided to tough it out for you guys and get some stuff done. I finished splicing in the injector pigtails for the ev6 injectors, with the harness on the car this was sort of a pita. I didnt take any pics as it's one of those simple things. (I actually forgot to take pics soo.....)
This guy was hanging out with me though, he didnt talk much.....
20181110_123211.jpg


Right now I am continuity testing the rotunda harness adapter, I have a list of pins that need to be swapped to make it work. Mine came with 2 pigtails I am using the one marked (Harness-to monitor) so i have another 2' extension i am not using.
20181110_152644.jpg


I'm using the one on the left.

and here is the pin list i have to swap, the left column is the side that plugs into the harness and the right column is the EEC. I did this very quickly with a multimeter and must verify these pins as i swap them so the list may change a bit.
1541881746109.png
 

a91what

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I have started to repin the extension harness, first I used a small screwdriver to remove the plastic retainer from the connector. The I pried the back off the connector and removed the rubber moisture barrier so the pins can be removed. This part requires a bit of finesse, you have to lift the plastic clip with a pick then remove the pin from the connector.
First I swapped pins 29-44
20181110_155617.jpg
 
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a91what

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1541889564472.png

1541889578844.png


this is the final verdict for that side of the harness. now this is a problem, notice how pin #42 is empty.... that is injector #7....
I am going to move a pin that is not in use to the pin42 spot and simply move the jumper in the MS case to get injector #7 out where i need it to be. After doing a pin check on the other side of the harness i believe that you could move the pins in the reverse order that i have done above and pin #49 will be empty, thats a non issue since it is the O2 sensor ground anyway and is not used with the MS.

So i have a second cable that is not repinned if someone needs it.
 

a91what

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Ok so I re-pinned the second harness and it will work without doing anything to the ECU... so thats what im doing.
The harness that says [Monitor to ECA] needs the pins moved as follows.
1541895595085.png
 

a91what

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I decided to piddle around outside and did an output test on the pwm circuit for the wmeth solenoid. Keep coming up with a low voltage only 3.8v at 100% duty cycle, I know I'm testing with a multimeter but even a noid light wont fire on this circuit. I am no electronics expert but I think the IRLZ44N transistor went bad, these can carry alot of current but a nitrous solenoid being pulsed is alot.
 

a91what

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Ok so i drove the car into work today and am happy to say that there is no issue in respect to the way the car is running. It may all just be in my head but the car seems to run smoother than it has been previously, this may be attributed to the fact that the injectors now have a solid connection and i am not loosing or dropping a(n) injector randomly anymore. So far life is good.

There is this nagging i have about the amount of boost the car is making, i think the intake tract i have built and the single 75mm throttle body may be choking the blower down. Most of the companies that make these blowers suggest a 80mm or larger intake tract to support 400 HP.

I am not however going to be pulling it apart to test this theory, I may make a new inlet for it at some point in the future... one that will support a 90mm TB or even one of those oval deals the 03-04 cobras used they pop up for cheap all the time. This would be easy if i had a way to weld aluminum.
 

90sickfox

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Think of all the side money you could make tig welding custom parts for folks....
 

CarMichael Angelo

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jrichker

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I decided to piddle around outside and did an output test on the pwm circuit for the wmeth solenoid. Keep coming up with a low voltage only 3.8v at 100% duty cycle, I know I'm testing with a multimeter but even a noid light wont fire on this circuit. I am no electronics expert but I think the IRLZ44N transistor went bad, these can carry alot of current but a nitrous solenoid being pulsed is alot.
Did you have a diode in parallel with the solenoid coil to dampen the inductive pulse?