Build Thread Frankenstang- Eaton M112 5.0 - On the back burner

jrichker

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I did try to put a turn or 2 on the adjuster when i got to work, the cable is tight. tighter than i think it should be.
There is a fair amount of preload on the clutch cable. Tighten it up and as long as 2nd gear upshift gets good rubber, you are OK. That works OK with a Tremec 3350, but maybe not so good with a T5.
OR spare the fragile T5 and try this trick...
If the clutch slips when you put it in 5th gear and floor it, then the cable is too tight
 
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a91what

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Ok today after it was hot I could not get it into 1st... revved engine till it hit the limiter and the clutch pushed in farther... and car went right into gear.....

What's that mean?
 

jrichker

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Something is moving around on the clutch linkage....

Help for those who have replaced the clutch assembly and are still having problems with adjustment:
The next step doesn't make much sense it you already have the transmission installed, but just for sake of discussion, here it is:
The throwout bearing sits in the clutch fork arm with the wave springs pressing on the rear flange of the throwout bearing.

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Major differences between the distance between the flywheel surface and the clutch fingers may require tinkering with the clutch fork pivot ball. Stack your old pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel up like they were when installed in the car. Tighten down all the pressure plate bolts and measure the distance between the clutch fingertips and the flywheel face.
Too much thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far back to get the clutch cable on the quadrant. It may even sit against the rear or the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm. In that case, reduce the pivot ball height.
Too little thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far forward and bottom out against the front side of the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm.. This will prevent the clutch from fully disengaging.
In other words, the clutch fork arm should sit positioned midway or a little towards the rear in the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm when the cable is properly tensioned.
 

90sickfox

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With my truck I have to rev the engine up and on its way back down it'll drop in gear.
 

a91what

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Hmm... even with a different clutch in there I remember it being hard to shift but nothing like this....

I may step back and punt, put the car up for a while until I can find a pivot ball, clutch fork and buy a new clutch.... also swap in a trans while I'm at it....

I'm never gonna drive this thing.
 
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a91what

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Well gents if I am going to do this I need help picking a clutch. I have a zoom replacement in there now and dont have alot of money to burn. I want something that will work correctly and quality. This is getting old fast.
 

Sparky714

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I put a Spec stage 2 in mine last winter along with a brand new z spec T5. Broke it in as recommended and it works great. I don't have experience with any other brands though, so just my personal experience. I believe our cars are at similar power levels.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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With the stock t5 I wouldn't put too hard of a clutch in front of it. An on off switch will be hard on internals. A little slip can go a long way on a weak transmission. Stage 2 is probably the firmest I'd go. Spec is a good brand...I've had good luck with them.
 

90sickfox

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I like their twin disc. I love every car ive installed one in. It's expensive.... but jeeesh it feels good and light on the knee.
 

67coupe

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Clutch feels like it releases at the top of the pedal and engages near the middle. Until the car warms up of course.
Had a clutch that wouldn’t keep its adjustment. Keep acting like that cable was getting longer (release point kept moving toward floor). Turns out the pivot ball was loose and backing out of the bell housing. Probably not your issue, but I’d take a look since you’re pulling it apart.