Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches
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Now that I have something to show for my efforts.... @CarMichael Angelo may actually approve of this design.
I took a 2" exhaust 90* and cut the back off of it so I had a clean radius to work with. I then cut and boxed the end so it would fit.
This is the general idea i am going for.
for after i got it partially welded i cut the pipe so i could make a smooth transition from the round 3" to the back of the 2" radius. Remember i had to squeeze the 3" pipe down so it would fit the mold, now with this little bump out I have my area back.
I need a new welder, this thing has no heat control (no pedal) and its finally starting to act up on me. It will randomly go from a controlled arc to blow a mo@#th÷r f<"king hole in
.
I took a 2" exhaust 90* and cut the back off of it so I had a clean radius to work with. I then cut and boxed the end so it would fit.
I need a new welder, this thing has no heat control (no pedal) and its finally starting to act up on me. It will randomly go from a controlled arc to blow a mo@#th÷r f<"king hole in
.
Well the one side just hasn't been finished yet (still need to weld the top on it). The bottom side has a 1 1/4" pipe that will line up with the bypass valve located behind the blower.
I will still need to add a 3/8 vacuum port to feed the booster ect. The only boost referenced port will go to the ecu/boost gauge.
I also need to come up with a way to get the wmeth where I want it..... this may require drilling/tapping my adapter plate, not my favorite idea. I will be doing some measuring to see if it is possible.
I will still need to add a 3/8 vacuum port to feed the booster ect. The only boost referenced port will go to the ecu/boost gauge.
I also need to come up with a way to get the wmeth where I want it..... this may require drilling/tapping my adapter plate, not my favorite idea. I will be doing some measuring to see if it is possible.
I guess I just coulda gave you one of those thumb up thingys, but that wouldn't be me now would it.Now that I have something to show for my efforts.... @CarMichael Angelo may actually approve of this design.
I took a 2" exhaust 90* and cut the back off of it so I had a clean radius to work with. I then cut and boxed the end so it would fit.This is the general idea i am going for.for after i got it partially welded i cut the pipe so i could make a smooth transition from the round 3" to the back of the 2" radius. Remember i had to squeeze the 3" pipe down so it would fit the mold, now with this little bump out I have my area back.
I need a new welder, this thing has no heat control (no pedal) and its finally starting to act up on me. It will randomly go from a controlled arc to blow a mo@#th÷r f<"king hole in
That is exactly what I was talking about back when you were drawing horse peen concepts on the picture of the blower a month ago. Good job.
Well thanks Mike, see you did not have to look at horse peen after all.
I must now cut a flange off the other intake I made and mate in to this one. I could/should have made the pipe higher for more clearance but I am confident it will work out. If it wont fit the way I want it too I see a remote mount iac in my future.
Well what do you guys think so far? I think the pipe will have to be cut back before the TB flange can go on, this way it's an easy turn into the fender. Going MAF this time with the tune, already have the 90mm maf lying around.
I'd say if the pipe is currently pointing down at 6:00, cut it so it terminates in the 7:30 position to run it into the existing hole in the fender apron.
I shall not pretend that I know what's going on in here ritemeow. Instead, I leave you with this -
Impromptu Caption Contest:
Impromptu Caption Contest:
This proves my thread get little to no traffic.I shall not pretend that I know what's going on in here ritemeow. Instead, I leave you with this -
Impromptu Caption Contest:
I did this after work.
There it is partially bolted down, I have not yet determined what position the TB will be positioned for the linkage connection. Not sure how much more awkward it will look with the idle valve connected. It will be more work but I think blocking the iac off will look better. I can then port in a remote iac valve and attempt to hide it.
A close up of the bypass valve just for you noobz, a rubber coupler will join them.
There it is partially bolted down, I have not yet determined what position the TB will be positioned for the linkage connection. Not sure how much more awkward it will look with the idle valve connected. It will be more work but I think blocking the iac off will look better. I can then port in a remote iac valve and attempt to hide it.
A close up of the bypass valve just for you noobz, a rubber coupler will join them.
And you have to know why that is.....This proves my thread get little to no traffic.
Lets take a poll shall we?
Anybody here who can do what STEVE just did with a Jag blower?....
Anybody?
You have done something that nobody here can copy. It goes without saying that only the few ( the 7-10) that are here always are the only ones that are gonna chime in for commentary.
Now,...put a cam, some heads, and an intake on a 5.0, or start a loud assed muffler thread,.....
You'll be covered up.
Once i get this thing running maybe i will do a separate thread with just video of the engine and some driving. Since pictures dont work anymore i will go to motion pictures.
I would likely try and hide it either under the intake near the back of the blower or somehow incorporate it into the bracket that will hold the coil packs.
Either way it will get air from in front of the TB and feed the inlet just before the blower. This will make the valve slow to respond but i can work around that.