Freaky's Official Explorer and GT-40 intake thread. 56k, dont' bother

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by Stang89LXCPE, Jun 3, 2005.

  1. Just wanting to bring this back from the dead... It really helped me :D

    Just one question, the only diff between late 97 and pre early 97 is the EGR hole, ACT bung, and the mounting ears?

    So if I am ditching the EGR with a chip... The best intake for me to get is a late 97 and on intake?
  2. Yes, but you could still run an EGR-equipped intake if you think you'll ever be switching back to EGR in the future.
  3. What is the difference between the GT40's and GT40P's??
  4. Back from the dead, I just got an explorer intake im going to install. Have a few questions I didnt see in the thread.

    What gaskets do we need to get for this intake?
    Also, does anyone know the name of the stock intake color?(mine is all dirty so im going to sand it and repaint)
  5. I used the Fel-Pro 1250 gasket set, as do a lot of people.

    I was subscribed to a thread on the Corral this year that was discussing the color of the original intakes. I will see if I can find it for you.
  6. What's the cheapest way to tell the computer that it doesn't have EGR anymore? I have a later exp. intake on mine but i'm not sure if the previous owner did anything to the computer. I haven't noticed any problems though?
  7. gasket kit - MS95952
  8. I've got a question about this. I previously thought that I had an EXP2 intake because the vaccum line going to my EGR is plugged. I've gone over the image comparisons and I actually have an EXP1 (I have a boss + drilled ACT in Intake #5 on the lower and I compared the underside pics of the uppers and I've determined that I have an EXP1 from the vaccum setup).

    Ok, so this means I do have the EGR passages in the intake, so why would someone do this? (see pic)

    What does that vaccum line actually do going to the EGR? What does the stuff over on the left behind the strut tower do?

    Attached Files:

  9. Bump.. Any EGR experts?
  10. interesting. Appears someone adapted what may have been the explorer egr to work with your setup. Maybe they did that because their original egr was bad. also, the act isn't tapped in any of the explorer intakes from the factory, you've got to do it yourself. If you're sure you have the explorer intake with the internal egr ports, you can def swap that out for a normal egr setup with the single vacuum line.

    On a seperate subject, my buddy anthony dalrymple did some porting on the explorer lower intake for me. can't wait to bolt it on





  11. What I meant by the ACT is that it had the boss for it, unlike EXP2. I just don't want any of the lean/part throttle problems that I hear people talk about with no EGR. I noticed that the bulb for the check engine light has been removed so it's probably throwing some codes. It also has a smog pump delete, would the check engine light come on just from that?

    Anyway to tell if i'm fine as it sits or if I need to fix EGR, etc..?
  12. have you smogged it? If the egr works, I wouldn't mess with it, but then again, you're running without a smog pump, and that means that the tab and tad solonoids which provide vacuum to the first and second smog tubing valves are plugged off, so I wouldn't be surprised if you're popping codes for the tab and tad soloinoids/smog thermactor system.

    If you had an oem style mustang egr handy (i'm sure you could find one for free eh?) it wouldn't hurt to swap, all you'd need is a gasket, and the vacuum line. I'm not sure how that funky egr is gonna work on your car. Are you experiencing problems with how it runs now?
  13. I have the early Explorer manifold on my car. It has a fully functional EGR and Thermactor Air System (smog pump).

    Some basic theory to clarify how things work is in order…

    The EGR shuts off at Wide Open Throttle (WOT), so it has minimal effect on performance. The addition of exhaust gas drops combustion temperature, increases gas mileage and reduces the tendency of the engine to ping. It can also reduce HC emissions by reducing fuel consumption.

    The EGR system has a vacuum source (line from the intake manifold) that goes to the EVR, computer operated electronic vacuum regulator. The EVR is located on the back of the passenger side shock strut tower. The computer uses RPM, Load. and some other factors to tell the EVR to pass vacuum to open the EGR valve. The EGR valve and the passages in the heads and intake manifold route exhaust gas to the EGR spacer (throttle body spacer). The EGR sensor tells the computer how far the EGR valve is open. Then computer adjusts the signal sent to the EVR to hold, increase or decrease the vacuum. The computer adds spark advance to compensate for the recirculated gases and the slower rate they burn at.

    There should be no vacuum at the EGR valve when at idle. If there is, the EVR (electronic vacuum regulator) mounted on the backside of the passenger side wheelwell is suspect. Check the vacuum line plumbing to make sure the previous owner didn’t cross the vacuum lines.

    Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds.

    The EGR sensor is basically a variable resistor, like the volume control on a radio. One end is 5 volt VREF power from the computer (red/orange wire). One end is computer signal ground (black/white), and the middle wire (brown/lt green) is the signal output from the EGR sensor. It is designed to always have some small voltage output from it anytime the ignition switch is the Run position. That way the computer knows the sensor & the wiring is OK. No voltage on computer pin 27 (brown/lt green wire) and the computer thinks the sensor is bad or the wire is broken and sets code 31. The voltage output can range from approximately .6-.85 volt.

    EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

    to check the EGR valve:
    bring the engine to normal temp.
    connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve
    apply 5in vacuum to the valve.
    if engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.
    if engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.
    if engine stumbled, connect vacuum gauge to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve
    snap throttle to 2500 RPM (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
    did the vacuum gauge show about 5in vacuum?

    if not, check for manifold vacuum at the EGR vacuum valve.
    if you have manifold vacuum then connect vacuum gauge to the EGR valve side of the vacuum valve and snap throttle to 2500 RPM.
    should read about 5in vacuum

    Attached Files:

  14. Where would be the best place to relocate the IAT sensor on a turbo setup? Just in the cold side piping after the intercooler somewhere?
  15. Yeah, that would be a good place........
  16. Do you know what size tap I need for the sensor?

    I need to go get these items(speak up if I missed something...haha)
    1. gasket kit - MS95952
    2. black rtv for the front/end of the intake
    3. solder
    4. wire to extend the IAT sensor
    5. vac caps

    That should be it :)
  17. sensor - 9/16" drill (shank turned down to 1/2" for 1/2" drill chuck) AND A 3/8" npt TAP.
  18. The ACT (Air Charge Temp) sensor will probably need to be moved. The GT 40 lower manifold isn't drilled & tapped for it to go into the intake like the stock manifold was. There is a boss cast into the GT 40, but a machine shop will have to drill & tap the new manifold. The best spot for the ACT is the air box if you don't do the drill and tap thing. You get to cut and splice the 2 ACT wires in order to make them long enough to reach the air box. Solder the wire extensions on the existing wires & use heat shrink tubing to cover the splices. Offset the place where you cut the wires so that you don't have a big bulge when you put heat shrink over the 2 wires to cover & protect them. The air box gets a hole (5/8" or so) for the ACT drilled about 1 1/4" down & 1/1/4" in on the front top side near the upper radiator hose. A brass fitting nut from Home Depot or Ace Hardware secures the ACT into the air box.

    If you are very clever, you will find that the ACT connector comes apart so that you can remove the pins. A very small screwdriver releases the lock in the front of the center insert, while another small screwdriver inserted in the back pushes it out. Once the center insert is out of the connector shell, the pins come out easily. New pins are available from AutoZone in a $5 electrical pin kit for Fords. Crimping the pins on the extender wires saves you from having to splice them twice: once to put the connector on and once to extend the wires.

    6 ft black 18 gauge wire
    6 ft green 18 gauge wire
    6 ft 1/4" heat shrink tubing
    1 ft 3/16" heat shrink tubing

    Measure the 2 extender wires & cut them to length, crimp one set of pins on them. Then mate up the extender pins with the wiring harness & slide the 3/16" heat shrink tubing over them & shrink the tubing. Then slide the 1/4" heat shrink tubing over the pair of wires and shrink the tubing. When you are done you'll have about 1" of wire left without heat shrink tubing on it to strip & crimp the new pins on. Stick the new pins in the old connector shell, assemble it and you are done. It looks as good as factory. Some wire loom can be used to enhance the "Factory Look".


  19. Sorry, double post. My ISP hiccuped...