Fresh Off Dyno...Numbers Way Low?!?

hotstang_46

Member
Apr 11, 2007
481
4
18
Charlotte NC
Well, just got dyno tuned by a very reputable shop here in Illinois..... Finish Line Performance. Very nice folks by the way.

The car only made 256hp and 268 tq

It was tuned on a dynojet dyno

2000gt auto, 65k
My mods are.....

Patriot stge II assembled heads
VT Stge II cams
MSD COP's
PP Throttle body and Plenum
Straight shot Intake
Steeda Fuel Pump
BBk Shorty headers
Mac Pro Chamber, no cats
Flow Mufflers
Pulleys

Thought the car was should have making 290 plus? what gives, my car have some sort of problem or something. The guys at the shop told me the numbers I made weren't bad at all.

Stock gears, changing to 3.90's soon.

Will scan and post the dyno sheet tomorrow
 
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even still.....I don't have a baseline before modding but I'm what.....215hp stock give or take? All those mods and 40hp? I have done any seaches but I could swear I've seen comp set ups on here with considerable more horse that I have. I did ask him if I did something wrong with installing all the parts or something and he said no. Car runs great numbers are not bad and actually quite good.:shrug:
 
what do you run at the track? what does your butt dyno say?

What were the pre-tune numbers? If you had a baseline run, we could make some kind of call, but as it is, well...

Assuming a stock car would show ~225 rwhp on their dyno, you have 31 rwhp over stock. But a dyno is a tuning tool, not an absolute measure of performance. Like, say, a drag strip. Traps of 105 would be a better indicator of gains than a random dyno. Hell, a street race against a stock LS1 would give a better indicator of what you've accomplished than an isolated dyno number. I'm not suggesting street racing, but I-90 traffic is a reliable indicator in my experience :)

Ever consider your MSD coils are junk and costing you power? I'm not saying they are, just that the factory COP system is pretty much state of the art, and to realistically get the same performance from the aftermarket would cost far more than Ford charges. Economies of scale and all that. You do the math.

Go to the track and make a few good runs. Keep the dyno sheets and compare them against future dynos at the same place for comparison.

Great Lakes Dragaway is close to you, just across the Wisconsin border. They are open well into October, and often have test & tune days. Give them a visit before getting depressed.

Hell, hang out near Driver's Image in Skokie on McCormick and run down some Civics, Preludes, and 240SX's for a quick ego boost. The owner was a pretty hardcore Mustang drag racer in the early 90's and a few years ago turned ricer dollars into a nice new 911 Carrera, so it ain't all rice either :) Cool guy, BTW. He just knows how to butter his bread (takes a hell of a lot more money to make a Civic run fast than a domestic V8, you know. He's no dummy.).
 
i agree with all of the above, i heard that great lakes just repaved last week too, so their track doesnt suck like it used to. i would have gone to Bob Kurgan for the tune, but its all prefrence.



BTW: join chicagolandmustang.com if you havent already.
 
Posted via Mobile DeviceScupking on here is right at if not over 300 with cams and now longtubes, through an auto, i dont think he has heads though. have u done some pre dyno maintenance like cleaning the maf and filter? i have witnessed a maf cleaning gain 9rwhp, plugs, injector cleaning, how old is the oil? can you post the afr data? i say atleast 278-285 fuel filter comes to mind for some reason, which makes me think about changing mine
 
What kind of Dyno-Jet? Were the runs done in Inertia Mode or Load bearing mode? Which correction factor if any was used? And the list goes on...
 
Did not clean the MAF, Was cleaned when doing the install 500 miles ago though. Air filter is clean for sure. Fuel Filter was just changed 500 miles ago as well. Install was done by me, I did not degree (this is the first thing that came into my head too ..... Is it possible the cams could be off? wouldn't this cause ptv though?) I've never run my car at the track, I have no times, hopefully will soon though:nice:. Car itself runs great. Does not die at idle or when sitting at a stop light in drive. Power feels smooth and linear.

"TJG What kind of Dyno-Jet? Were the runs done in Inertia Mode or Load bearing mode? Which correction factor if any was used? And the list goes on... "

I didn't know there were different kinds of dyno jet's. I just knew to ask what brand of dyno. I did not ask any of the other questions you posted. I've done alot of dyno work for my boats but that's on an engine dyno. This is my first dyno run ever with a car and as such am a newb. Should I be calling this guy and asking him this?



BTW: join chicagolandmustang.com if you havent already. I will join. Though I keep my mustang here at the parents house I'm usually at one of my other homes. I can't stomach the weather here in the chi for too long. Though when I'm in town it would be nice to have some other stangs to hook up with and learn about some car spots.

Ever consider your MSD coils are junk and costing you power? Found out a coil was bad after I had dropped the car off to them. They recomended these coils and they are brand new.

Dyno2.jpg
 
I was Dyno'd by JAWS Racing here in Tallahasse, FL - with an Auto, no cams, shorties, basic boltons, at 259RWHP and 292 RWTQ, without nitrous. Your injectors may be maxed out with your heads and cams, upgrade to 24LB and head back to the tuner/dyno.
 
"TJG What kind of Dyno-Jet? Were the runs done in Inertia Mode or Load bearing mode? Which correction factor if any was used? And the list goes on... "

I didn't know there were different kinds of dyno jet's. I just knew to ask what brand of dyno. I did not ask any of the other questions you posted. I've done alot of dyno work for my boats but that's on an engine dyno. This is my first dyno run ever with a car and as such am a newb. Should I be calling this guy and asking him this?

Your dyno sheet is SAE corrected. It kind of matters what Dyno-Jet they have. If it was in load bearing mode, it will read very close to what a Mustang Dyno will and the numbers will be lower...
 
The graph is small and hard to read. it looks like it says 53.7 F 30.05 in-hg humidity 22% SAE: 0.9x I can not read the last number. where was this done that in Sept. the temperature was this low?

Can probably read this a little better.

P1010027-2.jpg picture by hotstang46 - Photobucket

He did tell me that my injectors were maxed out. However he did say that there was not a need to upgrade unless more mods were done.

The test was done in chicago. I flew out here about 2 weeks ago and man...... it's been cold.

Thanks for all the help guys. I would not be able to make sense of these numbers and figure out if there's a problem without you guys.

I will call and ask him a few questions before he leaves tonight. Can you guys help me with what to ask.

1. What type of Dynojet was it?
2. Was it in load bearing mode?
3. Are you sure the injectors weren't holding me back?

Anything else to add? I will wait to see if any of you guys have suggestions and call in about 2 1/2 hours or so and post what he says.
 
I would say those numbers are low. When mine was dynoed I had the stock headers and made 280rwhp on a mustang dyno with what I have in my sig and mine is an auto. I now have long tubes and an X pipe installed and will be picking the car up this weekend. I will be going back to the dyno in about a week for a retune.