frustrated with edelbrock/AFR 165 setup

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by Gojoshojoe, Apr 14, 2010.

  1. hey guys need alittle advice here...

    I am currently trying to get my mustang running the way it should. I have a stock bottom end with 60cc afr 165's, 1.6 fms rockers, e-cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM II intake, fms shorty headers, off-road H-pipe, magnaflow catback, autolite plugs, fms wires, msd pro billet distributor n msd coil, timing set at 12 deg, 70mm accufab tb n spacer, 80mm pro-m mass air and 24lb injectors, Anderson power pipe, A9L comp, 225lph pump out back and Fuel pressure set to 34.

    everything is brand new (except the bottom end) and hasnt seen the road regularly yet, including every electrical sensor (including O2's) and i literally went through every single wire in every harness to make sure everything was ok. the car surges for a couple of mins on cold start up but smoothes out n idles great. i took it out on the street a couple times to see what it feels like and at part to almost full throttle it bogs like crazy. then, when it feels like it, it tears ass and takes off like a maniac like it also stinks like its running rich most of the time, even at idle.

    I'm wondering if my combo isnt correct for my setup. is my upper intake too big? am i doing something wrong? timing/fuel? i dont want to register n insure it only to be disappointed. other than thinkin that the performer rpm II might b overkill i've tried to match up everything without going crazy. I want to get it tuned but I want to be able to drive it somewhat close to normal first. also the bottom end seems to be alittle tired and i think the rings are going because its smoking, not horribly though. I was going to just get another 306 to replace it but i want to know that this combo will work. I've done similar, mild setups on my other stangs and never had this problem before...

    If anyone can help I would appreciate it. PLEASE! i'm tired of staring at scratching my head while it sits in my driveway after spending all that time and money......thanks
  2. the combo is fine, fuel pressure is a little low, try bumping it to like 38 or 40 and see if that helps out
  3. Did you pull the codes?

    Always a good first step.

    Also remember that your computer needs time to learn. Its adaptive learning logic learns faster during the first several start ups, but time is needed. Also note that it will not learn unless the coolant gets over 170 and the air intake temp is above 125, meaning that the car must be good and warmed up.

    Also any learning done at idle will only apply at idle, so you need to go drive it around to get different states of operation. And don't just hammer it, the computer doesn't learn in situations where you are giving it more that half throttle.

    Good luck...
    A5literMan and jrichker like this.
  4. good advice
  5. yeah 34 seems a bit low for Fuel pressure. Dont feel bad, i got done with my 331 project and the thing barely ran, i couldnt drive, towed it to Anderson Ford in IL, and the thing never ran better. No it doesnt run again cause i switched Intakes, injectors, and mass air meter, but for the time being it was great. Its amazing what a tune will do. Best money u can spend serioulsy!!
  6. Tune! For sure! I just swapped out motors in mine, it did the same thing for the first couple of miles. Then after normal driving and computer learning, it ended up being fine. But with a combo like that, a tune is strongly recommended.
  7. ...

    ahh you know it never occurred to me the computer had to learn the new setup esp because its new, i should've i guess its time to get in on the road give it a good learnin and i will raise and adjust the fuel pressure.

    I also deleted my egr and bought from RPM Injection the eliminator plug with the resistors prewired in the connector as well as the proper resistors to eliminate the EVR, TAB, TAD and canister purge which I hardwired in. i dont think this should have any bearing on my situation but it has thrown some codes after the eliminations. funny thing though, i cant pull codes during KOER only during KOEO (iv'e tried more than one computer too) currently hasn't thrown a code and even after i clear the codes i get KOEO codes without the check engine light coming on, after it was running and sometimes the codes are different but some same and i know the light works as it has come on before. sounds freaky to me, im pretty confident on the workings of the EEC-IV system and this one baffles me. I was going to try another harness if I dont come up with an answer. I have to write down the codes and post them and hopefully see if anyone can explain WHY im getting these codes instead of just reading WHAT it is and what to replace or fix.

    Def eventually going for a tune when im all settled. thanks for the advice and support....
  8. Saw this thread and wonder what the issue/fix was??
  9. Me too, my cousin tunes and builds "Racing harnesses" maybe give Motorvationefi a call?
  10. Holy crap... A 4 year old thread!
  11. uhm, yeah, that guy hasnt posted since 2010, so I doubt there will be any response
  12. One of the clues was that the OP wasn't able to pull engine running codes. That is either a fault in NSS circuit (clutch not pressed, A/C on, transmission not in Neutral, bad wiring) or a problem inside the computer.

    Oddly enough, there was no mention of the code 67 typically generated what that problem occurs.
  13. I don't know if you remember jrichker but you and madspeed(I believe he chimed in) and 2000xp8 have been helping me out with my new combo. Tomorrow I should get 80mm back from pro m. I'm pretty sure it was calibrated wrong (bought in new). Sean Trotter never said what issue was found but I just sent it out tues and tracking says it'll be here tomorrow. If I'm reading flow sheet right it was cal for 42's not 24's. Runs fine with stock 58mm maf (No koer codes) so I'm banking on a serious increase in power with the 80mm.

    New combo is: AFR 165's (58mm comb cham)upgraded ls springs, rpm 2 intake, 24 # injectors, fti custom cam( 219/223 @ .050 .588 lift) 1 5/8 long tubes. Plus 190lph pump, pullies, ect.
    What do you guys think of this combination?

    Old combo was same bolt ons and heads with: typhoon intake(cause it was free) tfs #1 cam, 73mm C&L, 1 3/4 long tubes(I ditched them cause they were old and junky).

    That motor made 300rwhp 330 tq.

    I'm hoping to at least swap those numbers to 330/300. What would you guys guess??
    What would you change??

    I'm using SCT chip that was burned for old motor with different intake and less cam, I'm not driving it aggressively and it runs much better and smoother right now with it (I believe because of 24# injectors and stock 19# maf).

    When motor is fully broken in and dialed in well or dyno tuned I plan to use already installed nos wet system.
    Q is, am I safe spraying 125 shot through one fogger at throttle body??
    I told Ed Curtis I'd be spraying it a little and he says it's fine at that level to continue spraying at throttle body.
    #13 skiwesser11, Aug 24, 2014
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2014
  14. I've always used "dry" systems but a 125 hit should be fine. As long as everything is tuned right and in proper operational order. Remember to drop to a cooler plug and take some timing out for the hit (I always ran @10* w/93 octane fuel or up to 12* w/some 100/93 oct 50/50 mix) I've also ran up to 175 shot on a stock block without a problem.
  15. Can't say for sure if you will hit your HP goal, but I know Ed really preached about a broad TQ curve when I bought my FTI from him. You should notice a definite increase.

  16. Oh yes indeed, and I've only ran it to about 5600-5800 once or twice so far, trying to drive it gingerly for a while to break in but it's soooo hard. Only time I've revved that high was accidentally while spinning in 2nd. I need tires BAD.
    I told mr Curtis that I wanted to drive it everyday but that I will be taking it to local 1/8 mi tracks and spraying around 125 shot with ET streets (which also need to be replaced). He said it should like the spray too :)
    It is definitely very streetable still, so far I love it.

    I've got some old really tall mcreary dirt track tires that always hooked like glue at track, dumping clutch at 5k on 100 shot, milled and home "ported" e7's, stock cam, intake. It was speed density then and really ran good. Had 120,000 hard miles when it started backfiring every time I hit 2nd gear