Fuel filter fittings leaking

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
3,651
3
68
Indianapolis, IN
Replaced the filter but for the life of me i cant get this thing to reseal without leaking.


I noticed on the ground a white washer that has a step in it, and a o-ring. Looked in the other line on the filter, looks like this o-ring and white washer is supposed to be in the line.


Is the line busted? Seems like i can just put the washer and o-ring on the nipple of the filter and then push the line on. Wont seal if i dont use them.


Any ideas?
 
  • Sponsors (?)


thanks kurt.

Can you confirm that white washer? I just want to make sure im putting it back together in the same order. I slip the white washer on first, then the o-ring, then i put the fuel line on.


Wish i could just convert everything to an fittings. i HATE all these plastic clips/connectors. Sure, its a great thing when the car is new. But after 15yrs....this crap isnt worth snot.
 
There are two hairpin clips that hold the lines onto the filter stubs. Here are the instructions from the Ford service manual.

In-Line


Removal

1. WARNING: BECAUSE OF THE COMBUSTION CHARACTERISTICS OF GASOLINE, ALWAYS USE EXTREME CARE WHEN REMOVING AND INSTALLING ANY FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENT OR PERSONAL INJURY OR DAMAGE TO VEHICLE MAY OCCUR.

Depressurize the fuel system as outlined.

2. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».

3. Remove the push connect fittings at both ends of the fuel filter (9155) as outlined. Install new retainer clips in each push connect fitting.

4. Remove fuel filter from bracket by loosening worm gear clamp. Note the direction of the flow arrow as installed in the bracket to ensure proper direction of fuel flow through replacement fuel filter.


Installation

1. Install the fuel filter into the bracket, ensuring the proper direction of flow.

2. Tighten worm gear clamp to 1.7 to 2.8 N-m (15-25 lb-in).

3. Install the push connect fittings onto the fuel filter ends as outlined.

4. Start engine and check for leaks.

5. Lower vehicle.

Hairpin Clip Fittings


Removal

NOTE:
If necessary, drain fuel tank as outlined.

1. Inspect visible internal portion of fitting for dirt accumulation. If more than a light coating of dust is present, clean the fitting before disassembly.

2. NOTE: On 90-degree elbow connectors, excessive side loading could break the connector body.

Some adhesion between the seals in the fitting and the tubing will occur with time. To separate, twist the fitting on the tube, then push and pull the fitting until it moves freely on the tube.

3. CAUTION: Do not use any tools or possible damage to fittings may occur.

Remove hairpin-type clip from fitting by first bending the shipping tab downward so that it will clear the body. Next (USING HANDS ONLY) spread the two clip legs about 3.2 mm (1/8 inch) each to disengage the body and push the legs into the fitting. Complete removal is accomplished by LIGHTLY pulling from the triangular end of the clip and working it clear of the tube and fitting.

4. Grasp the fitting and hose assembly and pull in an axial direction to remove the fitting from the steel tube.

5. When fitting is removed from the tube end, inspect the fitting and tube for any internal parts that may have been dislodged from the fitting. Any loose internal parts should be immediately installed, using the mating tube to insert the parts.


Installation

1. It is recommended that the original clip NOT be reused in the fitting. To install the new clip, insert clip into any two adjacent openings with the triangular portion pointing away from the fitting opening. Install clip to fully engage the body (legs of hairpin clip locked on outside of body). Piloting with an index finger is necessary.

2. Before installing fitting on the tube, wipe tube end with a clean cloth. Inspect the inside of the fitting to ensure it is free of dirt and/or obstructions.

3. To install the fitting onto the tube, align the fitting and tube axially and push the fitting onto the tube end. When the fitting is engaged, a definite "click" will be heard. Pull on fitting to ensure it is fully engaged. Applying a light coat of oil to the tube end will aid assembly.
 
Well these 2 things came from somewhere. And I'm pretty sure I see the white washer in the other line.

It's not supposed to come out of the line. I didn't have this problem when I changed the filter the first time. Both lines popped on and off.
 
thanks kurt.

Can you confirm that white washer? I just want to make sure im putting it back together in the same order. I slip the white washer on first, then the o-ring, then i put the fuel line on.


Wish i could just convert everything to an fittings. i HATE all these plastic clips/connectors. Sure, its a great thing when the car is new. But after 15yrs....this crap isnt worth snot.

Not really confirm it. The white washer was never suposed to come out of there in the first place. I think the line kind of fell apart. You might be able to get it to work though.

I wouldn't swap it all to AN. Braided teflon line is suposed to be changed every 3 years. Not that anyone does, but it's suposed to. And putting the fittings on the end of braided line is a MF. I just finished up one line today for my nitrous pressure gauge. Going to all bulkhead mount. The best part is when the braided steel goes up underneath your finger nails and stabs your cuticles.

Anyway, if you can't get it to work, Advance sells new ends for it. You'll have to drop the fuel tank to get to the other end. Or splice it in.

Kurt
 
So i got the white washer to snap back into the line. Then put it back on the filter....unfortunately the leak is not as bad, but its still there. gonna pick up some o-rings tomorrow to see if that will do it. If not, Im just taking it off and gonna run clamps and fuel injection hose for now.
 
Stopped at autozone at lunch. They have a repair line that you splice in for $20. Has a new end connector to snap onto the filter. :nice:

Wish there was a cheap way to test the oring. Their cheapest viton oring variety pack was $6. Which, for 1 little o ring I know I will use is a rip off. And i don't even know if it's a fix.

From how the white washer came out, something besides the oring is worn since the oring doesn't hold it in. Best bet to just replace with the new line....


All in agreeance?
 
That repair line is complete crap. Good ol "made in china".

If you need it to bend a tight radius don't even try it. For straight sections to repair, it will probably work great.

The clip they send with it is paper thin. It broke EASILY with me using the supplied tool to get it out. Luckily I can use the clips that come with a fuel filter...just had to grind em down a little.


Gonna try to replace the line from the tank to the filter now.