Fuel Pump not working. need help 98 GT Mustang

[N2Gaming]

Hi all,

I am here because I have a problem w/my car. I decided let my fingers do the walking w/a little bit of Google research and it brought me here.

So far this is what I know about the problem.

The car use to start right up even after sitting for months w/a dead battery. I would use a jump box or jump start to get her going. Until last saturday that never seemed to be an issue. So after I could not get it started I figured I would start w/the obvious, does it have or is it getting any fuel. The answer is no. No fuel at all in the fuel rail.

I belive I have narrowed it down a little. I check the voltage at the inertia switch. I put my pos lead from my DMM into the Dk Green/Yellow wire and the neg lead of my DMM into the Brown/Pink wire and I get less then 2 volts w/the key in the on possition. All my fuses are good under the hood. My alarm system seems to be working just fine. The theft light goes out after about 2 seconds of leaving the key in the on position.

So I'm wondering is there a easy fix or at least a step by step set of diagnostic proceedure for finding the main problem. I will get a fully charged battery and connect it. Speaking of which, I'm wondering if all the low amp/voltage jump starts caused sothing to over heat after to many jump starts???

After some google'n I found out that the CCRM is located inside the right fender between the wheel well and the unibody frame. I don't know if I need to test the ECM or the CCRM and how I would go about doing so. I am still recovering from a bad motorcycle accident and can not afford the mechanic bill so any advice that leads me to the solution will not go unrewarded.

Thank you,

N2G

 

[GT Tommy]

Fuel Pump Not Working?

If you have voltage at the inertia switch, that would mean that your CCRM is working. Disconnect your fuel pump wire connector at the rear of the gas tank. With a fully charged battery, test voltage at the wire connect side that is coming from the inertia switch. If you have voltage there, in my opinion your fuel pump is the problem. With all of the engine start up's that you did, if you did this with an empty or near empty tank, you probably burnt out your fuel pump like the one in the picture below. That is the actual fuel pump removed from my son's 2003 GT Mustang with the 4.6 engine. Your fuel pump needs the gas in the tank to keep it cool. Empty gas tanks will end up with a burnt fuel pump. Again, this is my opinion, however, when I did have voltage at the wire connector at the rear of the gas tank, then I knew the fuel pump had burnt out. If you have never replaced the fuel pump from these Mustangs before, it is not a easy job. It is also a dangerous job. Be very careful. If you need further assistance, let me know. Good luck, Tommy.


View attachment 264201

 

[N2Gaming]

Thank you Tommy,

I have checked the green/yellow wire with a test light. I was told to ground a test light and connect the other end to the green/yellow wire at the inertia switch and it should light up for about 3-4 seconds right after I turn the key on. When I did this it lights up for about 1 second. So I'm wondering if I have a clogged fule filter and the pump has pressure built up in it and that is why the light goes out so fast. BTW I have about a 1/2 tank of gas and try to never let it get to low.

I posted to a pay sight that uses ceritfied ford mechanics and am working w/one atm and will keep you all posted of my findings.

Keep the suggestions coming. I appriciate them all.

N2G


EDIT:

So far the diagnosis is leaning more towards the fuel pump. Arg amnit:crapola

 

[GT Tommy]

Fuel Pump Energizes!

Yes, when you cycle your ignition switch, your fuel pump will only energize for a couple seconds if the engine does not start. Make sure you are testing for voltage at the wire connetor located at the rear of the gas tank. You want to get as close to the fuel pump as possible. Have someone cycle the ignition switch for you, while you check for voltage. If you are picking up voltage for that second or two with the engine turning over, then you see the voltage drop to 0 because your engine did not start, to me that would indicate that your fuel pump is bad. Hope this helps. Good luck, Tommy.

 

[N2Gaming]

I'm gonna drop the tank tomorrow if I have nice weather and test the pump outside of the tank... I may bang the pump a couple of times to see if it will start working. Do you know If I have to ground the pump housing or if the wires that go to the pump already do that ?

Thank you,

Tony

 

[GT Tommy]

I'm gonna drop the tank tomorrow if I have nice weather and test the pump outside of the tank... I may bang the pump a couple of times to see if it will start working. Do you know If I have to ground the pump housing or if the wires that go to the pump already do that ?

Thank you,

Tony

When I removed my son's 2003 GT Mustang 4.6 fuel pump, it was housed in the Fuel Pump Module Assembly exactly like the one shown below. I had to remove a plastic cover from the top of the assembly to get access to the fuel pump where the black and red wires are connected, which is the fuel pump itself. Not sure if yours is the same. For testing the fuel pump, there are two wires on the pump. You just need to use a negative and positive 12 volt source, the negative at the black wire and the positive at the red wire. If your pump is still good, it will vibrate. Make sure you test the pump away from the gas tank. You never know what is going to happen, so be safe. Incredible as it sounds, the burnt fuel pump that is in the picture shown in my previouis thread, still worked. I just had to make sure that the black and red wires coming off the pump were separated, not touching each other. Of course I did not re-use it. I replaced the entire Fuel Pump Module Assembly. I think yours might be different, not sure. Do you have the gas tank removal instructions? If not, email me at: [email protected]. I'll then email it to you. It's too long to post here. Hope this helps. Good luck, Tommy.

 

[N2Gaming]

Hey Tommy thanks for the grafix. Now I know what to expect when I drop the tank... I was told that I need a fuel line remover. Did you have to use a special fuel line remover the sepperate the fuel lines from the tank or were you able to use a different non specialized tool for this process. i.e. pliers screwdriver etc.

Thank you,

Tony

 

[GT Tommy]

This is what your fuel pump module will look like!

Here is what your fuel pump module will look like. Very similar to the 2003 GT Mustang. I think the only difference is your fuel system uses the return fuel line, indicated by the two fuel line fittings at the top of the fuel pump module cover. You can just purchase the pump itself if that was your intention. One important note: You see the float arm, which is the rod with the black float on it. Do not bent this in anyway. If you do, you will get false gas gauge readings. Also, take note of the way the top cover is facing before you remove it. Make reference marks, because it has to go back the same way. It is very critical to get the float arm inside of the plastic holder that is mounted inside your gas tank. Once you remove the fuel pump module and look inside the gas tank, you will see what I'm talking about. There are two square opennings designed in the plastic holder. One is for the blue filter that you see at the base of the module to enter, and the other is for the black float to enter. So, when you remove the top cover, look inside your gas tank to see which way the fuel pump module is facing. This is very important, it has to go back the same way. So, make reference marks for this as well. Or take pictures which is probably easier to do. Again, the metal rod float arm must be positioned inside of the plastic holder inside that tank. If not, it will bind and not operate as intended. Once you replace the module assembly inside the plastic holder, you must make sure it sit's all the way down touching the bottom of the gas tank. If not, the top cover will not seat properly. So, once you get the module assembly back inside the gas tank, you need to manually rotate the float arm up and down making sure that it is free of any binding conditions. To get the module assembly seated properly will take several attempts. Again, make sure you don't bend the float arm while installing the module assembly. If you need further assistance just ask. Don't rush this. Take your time and do it right. If you find yourself having a hard time, stop and ask for help. There are alot of guy's on the forum who have done this and are very glad to help. Good luck, Tommy.

 

[squeak93]

N2Gaming..... Does your car have a return style or a returnless? that will make a difference.... 98's can have both. Easiest way to check is to look at your fuel rails and see if there are one or two fuel lines going to it. Should be on the passenger side of the fuel rails.


While you drop your tank, replace the filler grommet b/c you will almost definitely tear it in removal. Buy the oem one from your local ford dealer. Trust me.....

Also, with a half a tank of gas, you will most likely want help as the fuel will move from side to side and make the tank very heavy. Just as well replace your fuel filter while your in there. 10 bucks is cheap insurance and your right there. You will need fuel line disconnects, 10 bucks or so from your local parts/hardware store. Good luck. I too would say your pump has died.

 

[N2Gaming]

Thank you,

I belive it has the presure relieve valve and return line. It's a GT so I would think that is would be a little different then the standard stangs.

I will have to call around to see who has the fuel line seperator or removal tool.

N2G

 

[Midnight2V]

Hey! Don't go ripping your fuel tank out of the car...yet.

In the 96-98 GT's at least one fuse for the fuel pump is NOT under the hood. It is in the fuse panel under the dash. It is a 10amp fuse. If you are only starting the car intermittently, the fuse is much more prone to failure than regularly cycled fuse. The 99+ fuse may be under the hood, I don't know. And maybe the 96-98's have more than one, not sure. What I do know is in the 96-98's at least have the one under the dash. Check that first.

 

[N2Gaming]

Hey! Don't go ripping your fuel tank out of the car...yet.

In the 96-98 GT's at least one fuse for the fuel pump is NOT under the hood. It is in the fuse panel under the dash. It is a 10amp fuse. If you are only starting the car intermittently, the fuse is much more prone to failure than regularly cycled fuse. The 99+ fuse may be under the hood, I don't know. And maybe the 96-98's have more than one, not sure. What I do know is in the 96-98's at least have the one under the dash. Check that first.

Thank you. there is a lot of fuses under the dash and they are all tied to more then one circuit. i.e. fuel/ac/stereo etc so if one fuse is bad then it shuts off more then one circuit. I will check under the dash again but I was already getting a signal to my fuel pump when I toggle the key on so I do appriciate the last ditch effort but I'm pretty confident it is the pump and will keep you all posted with the final diagnosis.

N2G

 

[joepa]

N2Gaming..... Does your car have a return style or a returnless? that will make a difference.... 98's can have both. Easiest way to check is to look at your fuel rails and see if there are one or two fuel lines going to it. Should be on the passenger side of the fuel rails.


While you drop your tank, replace the filler grommet b/c you will almost definitely tear it in removal. Buy the oem one from your local ford dealer. Trust me.....

Also, with a half a tank of gas, you will most likely want help as the fuel will move from side to side and make the tank very heavy. Just as well replace your fuel filter while your in there. 10 bucks is cheap insurance and your right there. You will need fuel line disconnects, 10 bucks or so from your local parts/hardware store. Good luck. I too would say your pump has died.

+1
Definitely get a filler grommet. I had to replace my fuel pump about a month ago and this set me back a couple of days because I didn't have one. You will need the disconnects. They are sometimes a pain to get off but just uses some wd-40 on them and they will eventually come off. A tip when putting in the new grommet is to use some Vaseline on it. It also helps if you have a friend to help you align the filler neck back up into its housing while the other brings the tank up. There is also another rubber piece that is attached to the top of the tank if you want to completely take the tank out it can be removed fairly easy, but it was sort of a pain to get back in. Make sure you get the right fuel pump. There are fuel pumps with California emissions and some without. Make sure you get the right one. The non-California emissions comes with just a single plug, and the California emissions comes with to wire connectors. Another thing to make for sure it is your fuel pump is like what these other guys said to do is to get a wire tester and disconnect the wire connector at the rear. Its directly under the back bumper. If you have the key on it should have constant voltage back to it, at least mine did. There were 4 prongs. The top prongs read around 4-6 volts which is used for the gauge. The bottom prongs read a constant 12v. I had the same sort of problem that you did. I could run my car for awhile, go somewhere and turn the car off and try to restart and nothing would happen. Sometimes it would start and sometimes it wouldn't. If you have the power going back there then your problem is defiantly the fuel pump. Changed mine out and haven't had a problem since. I hope this helps.

 

[N2Gaming]

I finally got the pump out and I think it is the pump for sure

I got the pump out and tested it by hot wiring it and nothing. I beat on it a few times and nothing. I also tested the pos and neg lead on the pump and got no continuity.

So is it safe to say that is the problem and if so now where to buy the cheapest pump.

I see a lot of people selling the whole assembly but I only need the pump. So How do I go about just getting the pump. Most stores want almost $250.00 and up. Pep boys has the pump for about $160.00 or so and I think it is just the pump. Should I get that or is there a better pump for the money. I don't mind waiting for internet shipping if I can get a good pump for the price under $160.00

Thanks,

Tony

 

[GT Tommy]

Pump Kit Only!

I'm sure there are others who sell just the pump, but here is one that does sell the pump kit shown below. Check out RockAuto.com with the Google Search Engine. I'll see if I can find others. OK, I just found this. NAPA Auto Parts sells the same kit. Their part number is: Item#: NFPP74168HP Good luck, Tommy.

 

[GT Tommy]

Here's a kit from Checker Auto Parts

Here is a good kit from Checker Auto Parts. This one has the rubber seal for the cover which is good. Good luck, Tommy.

 

[joepa]

I got mine at Rockauto.com You should check it out there. I got the sending unit and everything for like $200 with shipping and everything. But they also sell just the pump for $105 here is the part number AIRTEX Part # E2366

 

[N2Gaming]

Here is a good kit from Checker Auto Parts. This one has the rubber seal for the cover which is good. Good luck, Tommy.

Thanks guys,

I went with this same kit from Kragen Auto Parts for $119.99 and a $8.00 Fram Fuel filter. I'm still a little hesatant w/installing the fram. I never did like fram filters. I'd just rather go w/a oem Ford filter but Ford was not next to Kragen.

I just finished putting the tank all back together and I have to torque the 6 bolts on top so that is why I am online looking up the torque specks that you sent me Tommy.

Thanks for that by the way.

Tony

 

[GT Tommy]

Thanks guys,

I went with this same kit from Kragen Auto Parts for $119.99 and a $8.00 Fram Fuel filter. I'm still a little hesatant w/installing the fram. I never did like fram filters. I'd just rather go w/a oem Ford filter but Ford was not next to Kragen.

I just finished putting the tank all back together and I have to torque the 6 bolts on top so that is why I am online looking up the torque specks that you sent me Tommy.

Thanks for that by the way.

Tony

Did you find it difficult installing the fuel pump module getting the float arm in through the square openning in the plastic holder? Also, before you installed the top cover, did you try moving the float arm all the way up and all the way down, checking for any binding conditions? This is very important! Glad you were able to get the tank removed and the new pump installed. I know how difficult this job is. It won't be long now! Good luck, Tommy.

 

[N2Gaming]

I found it fairly easy I'm working at a snails pace. first time and I am recovering from a bad Street bike crash a year ago march 13th so I'm not trying to kill myself. Hell I broke thirteen bones. C6 T4 T6 L1 Scapula Tailus Sternum several ribs and a collar bone not to mention all the muscle pains that go along w/the week and broken down body. It's ok though, I had my first beer a half hour ago kind of early celebratory cheers to myself for making it this far. I tested the new pump and it worked and that gave me a great big O sigh of relief that I'm on the right track. Now just have to take my time and get it right the first time because I don't want to have to repeat my efforts. So I tested the pump before I bolted it in. Forgot to check if the float was loose but I'm pretty sure it's ok. I will test it before I bolt the tank up by turning the key on w/the tank right side up and then up side down just to make sure the float is not stuck. Thanks for reminding me about that before I bolt it back up to the car... Now for a couple of mooooore beers:SNSign: and I can go back to work.

Thanks again, Oh sorry if I say sank chu 2 motch but I'm just so gracious.

Tony