dennis112
15 Year Member
I'd like to suggest using aluminum foil over wires and such that you don't want paint/water on. It forms great on just about anything smaller than itself.
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- Thread starter gregski
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That is actually a smart tip, thank you, I bet it comes off a whole lot easier than this darn blue tape, lol.
Prep & Ready
The second step in the three step process is the Prep & Ready. When applying this product with my brush I realized a familiar smell, low and behold it smells just like the Phosphoric acid you buy at Home Depot for half the price. I didn't read the label but I bet it is more diluted. I had my rubber gloves on, but once I recognized the smell I put on my safety goggles especially since I was applying this with a brush.
Does the Prep & Ready remove rust? - No (more on this later)
Is it supposed to remove rust? - Um No
It is designed to basically etch the surface to give the POR15 paint something to bite into. The paint in step three does not like smooth surfaces.
This product I was told at the supply store is also optional, but again I wanted to follow the Tech Sheet so that I could report on the entire process and how it works. It costs $31.00.
Yes I just wrapped some blue tape over the wiring harness and called it good, that should keep paint splatter off of it and I didn't want to create more work for myself, as god only knows if I can put half the stuff I already took apart back together.
This stuff you also wash off with water. I used the same paper towel and a bucket of water routine as for the Clean step.
RESULT: Honestly I don't know what it does, maybe etch a little bit, maybe leave a little white film behind.
The second step in the three step process is the Prep & Ready. When applying this product with my brush I realized a familiar smell, low and behold it smells just like the Phosphoric acid you buy at Home Depot for half the price. I didn't read the label but I bet it is more diluted. I had my rubber gloves on, but once I recognized the smell I put on my safety goggles especially since I was applying this with a brush.
Does the Prep & Ready remove rust? - No (more on this later)
Is it supposed to remove rust? - Um No
It is designed to basically etch the surface to give the POR15 paint something to bite into. The paint in step three does not like smooth surfaces.
This product I was told at the supply store is also optional, but again I wanted to follow the Tech Sheet so that I could report on the entire process and how it works. It costs $31.00.
Yes I just wrapped some blue tape over the wiring harness and called it good, that should keep paint splatter off of it and I didn't want to create more work for myself, as god only knows if I can put half the stuff I already took apart back together.
This stuff you also wash off with water. I used the same paper towel and a bucket of water routine as for the Clean step.
RESULT: Honestly I don't know what it does, maybe etch a little bit, maybe leave a little white film behind.
Safety Third
Before going to step three and painting, I decided to replace the charcoal cartridges and the filters in my air mask. The new cartridge/filter pack costs $17 bucks and it's like the third or fourth I bought already since I started to prime the car. The pack comes with one set of charcoal cartridges the big plastic containers, and two sets of white thin filters that you put inside of these cartridges.
Some say it don't matter if the filters look dirty you can use your mask until you smell fumes, well this is a cheap Home Depot mask and $17 dollar replacement filters are cheap and new lungs are not, so I will just replace them do to paranoia.
Before going to step three and painting, I decided to replace the charcoal cartridges and the filters in my air mask. The new cartridge/filter pack costs $17 bucks and it's like the third or fourth I bought already since I started to prime the car. The pack comes with one set of charcoal cartridges the big plastic containers, and two sets of white thin filters that you put inside of these cartridges.
Some say it don't matter if the filters look dirty you can use your mask until you smell fumes, well this is a cheap Home Depot mask and $17 dollar replacement filters are cheap and new lungs are not, so I will just replace them do to paranoia.
horseballz
10 Year Member
Gregski,
You asked:
"Hey Gene, the engine or what's left of it (if you've been following the sister post 1968 289 H2O) is coming out this weekend how should I yank it?
A. Together with the transmission
B. Separate from transmission, pull engine out first by itself"
I say:
A>Remove alternator, front pulleys, shifter, speedo cable, crossmember, etc.
B>Leave the front end low at "on the wheels" height and jack the rear axle up onto jack stands
C>Pull engine/trans as a unit, as this will help you in understanding how engine/trans are fastened together, when you separate them.
Have Fun, Be Safe, Drink Beer & Call Me In The Morning,
Gene
You asked:
"Hey Gene, the engine or what's left of it (if you've been following the sister post 1968 289 H2O) is coming out this weekend how should I yank it?
A. Together with the transmission
B. Separate from transmission, pull engine out first by itself"
I say:
A>Remove alternator, front pulleys, shifter, speedo cable, crossmember, etc.
B>Leave the front end low at "on the wheels" height and jack the rear axle up onto jack stands
C>Pull engine/trans as a unit, as this will help you in understanding how engine/trans are fastened together, when you separate them.
Have Fun, Be Safe, Drink Beer & Call Me In The Morning,
Gene
skywalker
Member
I pulled mine as one unit...made it a lot easier to remove the tranny which was coming off anyways.
Gregski,
You asked:
"Hey Gene, the engine or what's left of it (if you've been following the sister post 1968 289 H2O) is coming out this weekend how should I yank it?
A. Together with the transmission
B. Separate from transmission, pull engine out first by itself"
I say:
A>Remove alternator, front pulleys, shifter, speedo cable, crossmember, etc.
B>Leave the front end low at "on the wheels" height and jack the rear axle up onto jack stands
C>Pull engine/trans as a unit, as this will help you in understanding how engine/trans are fastened together, when you separate them.
Have Fun, Be Safe, Drink Beer & Call Me In The Morning,
Gene
POR15 Rust Preventive Paint
Finally step three. This is where we make things black. I decided to apply this with a brush because it is simple, you don't have to mask things off, just make sure you have a drop cloth below the area you are painting. A quart of this stuff costs $45 bucks, it is not cheap, but a little goes a long way.
Couple rules, this isn't James Bond's martini, so stir it don't shake it. Scoop it out don't poor it out. Why? Because if you get this stuff in the grooves of the can it will seal the lid shut for good. I used blue tape to mask off the lip of the can, and then a piece of old plastic yogurt cup cut to fit through the narrow opening to carefully scoop 8 ounces out of it to paint the front side of the radiator support.
Why did I only paint the front support? Well it was a test, I never used this product before and since it was expensive I did not want to waste it on a test panel. Second I wasn't sure how it will dry, some said flat, others said it dries shinny, so I didn't want to paint the entire clip with it and find out I hate it.
I painted two coats. I waited 3 hours in between coats per the instructions, the paint was just tacky to the touch when the second coat went on.
Was 8 ounces enough? It was actually too much I wasted half of it, and I wasn't too happy about that, but I rather waste it than paint an un-prepped surface.
Did the paint leave brush marks? Surprisingly it did not.
Is it a durable surface / finish? Oh yeah, it's like powder coating.
Wear your mask and gloves, do not get this product on your skin, it will take a long time to come off.
RESULT: Easy to apply. Toxic. Very durable. Love the product and highly recommend it. Not meant to be sanded, (though I haven't tested that yet, no need really).
Photo of wet product, it does not dry this glossy.
Finally step three. This is where we make things black. I decided to apply this with a brush because it is simple, you don't have to mask things off, just make sure you have a drop cloth below the area you are painting. A quart of this stuff costs $45 bucks, it is not cheap, but a little goes a long way.
Couple rules, this isn't James Bond's martini, so stir it don't shake it. Scoop it out don't poor it out. Why? Because if you get this stuff in the grooves of the can it will seal the lid shut for good. I used blue tape to mask off the lip of the can, and then a piece of old plastic yogurt cup cut to fit through the narrow opening to carefully scoop 8 ounces out of it to paint the front side of the radiator support.
Why did I only paint the front support? Well it was a test, I never used this product before and since it was expensive I did not want to waste it on a test panel. Second I wasn't sure how it will dry, some said flat, others said it dries shinny, so I didn't want to paint the entire clip with it and find out I hate it.
I painted two coats. I waited 3 hours in between coats per the instructions, the paint was just tacky to the touch when the second coat went on.
Was 8 ounces enough? It was actually too much I wasted half of it, and I wasn't too happy about that, but I rather waste it than paint an un-prepped surface.
Did the paint leave brush marks? Surprisingly it did not.
Is it a durable surface / finish? Oh yeah, it's like powder coating.
Wear your mask and gloves, do not get this product on your skin, it will take a long time to come off.
RESULT: Easy to apply. Toxic. Very durable. Love the product and highly recommend it. Not meant to be sanded, (though I haven't tested that yet, no need really).
Photo of wet product, it does not dry this glossy.
Prep & Ready as a rust remover...
I said we would come back to the Prep & Ready product and discuss it's rust remover capabilities, or lack there of I should say. This product doesn't remove rust. It doesn't claim to remove rust, so we can't hold it against it. However I don't know about you, but I don't care what the manufacturer says I am not going to paint over rust just because I swiped a wet rag of this Prep & Ready across it. Case in point. Here are two sides of my Export Brace. The driver side (on your right) I cleaned the old fashion way with a wire wheel, which I am quite good at if I say so myself. The Passenger side I used the Clean product on then the Prep & Ready. Now would you paint right over this orange crap, because according to the company it is ready to paint right over? I'm not. What I do is I use a wire wheel and two to three scoops of elbow grease and then these, Clean and Prep & Ready products for that extra B effort look, LOL.
No I am not done with the Export Brace yet I know there are more rust spots even on the driver side. Get ready to be shocked, I may actually remove it and paint it off the car, when the time comes.
I said we would come back to the Prep & Ready product and discuss it's rust remover capabilities, or lack there of I should say. This product doesn't remove rust. It doesn't claim to remove rust, so we can't hold it against it. However I don't know about you, but I don't care what the manufacturer says I am not going to paint over rust just because I swiped a wet rag of this Prep & Ready across it. Case in point. Here are two sides of my Export Brace. The driver side (on your right) I cleaned the old fashion way with a wire wheel, which I am quite good at if I say so myself. The Passenger side I used the Clean product on then the Prep & Ready. Now would you paint right over this orange crap, because according to the company it is ready to paint right over? I'm not. What I do is I use a wire wheel and two to three scoops of elbow grease and then these, Clean and Prep & Ready products for that extra B effort look, LOL.
No I am not done with the Export Brace yet I know there are more rust spots even on the driver side. Get ready to be shocked, I may actually remove it and paint it off the car, when the time comes.
horseballz
10 Year Member
Gregski,
Just an FYI, what you have is not an export brace, it is simply a set of standard shock tower braces, VERY FLIMSY. This is an export brace:
Mustang Parts from Mustangs Plus :: Sheet Metal :: Export Braces :: 1965-70 Black Export Brace
and you really should have one to stiffen the front suspension. Also, I realize that while it's not in your current plans/budget, NOW is the time to deal with at least upper & lower control arms (if they don't test well) and spring perches while everything is easily accessible. Much more of a PITA (and I don't mean a GYRO sandwich) if you wait until it's all reassembled with engine, fenders and all.
Good Work,
Gene
Just an FYI, what you have is not an export brace, it is simply a set of standard shock tower braces, VERY FLIMSY. This is an export brace:
Mustang Parts from Mustangs Plus :: Sheet Metal :: Export Braces :: 1965-70 Black Export Brace
and you really should have one to stiffen the front suspension. Also, I realize that while it's not in your current plans/budget, NOW is the time to deal with at least upper & lower control arms (if they don't test well) and spring perches while everything is easily accessible. Much more of a PITA (and I don't mean a GYRO sandwich) if you wait until it's all reassembled with engine, fenders and all.
Good Work,
Gene
Devirginized
Hold on to your underwear everybody what you are about to see is history in the making, I am pulling out my first motor! (OK, well technically what's left of it, LOL) And you thought this day would never come.
OK, now for the record I am not yanking this thing out in order to paint the engine bay, as I still believe you can do a "good enuff" job with it being in there. I am pulling this 289 out because it is toast and I have a 302 ready to go in. Yes we are crossing paths with the sister thread entitled "1968 289 H2O" in case you haven't seen that one yet.
Yes the transmission will be coming out too, geez let me breath for a minute will ya, jk.
Hold on to your underwear everybody what you are about to see is history in the making, I am pulling out my first motor! (OK, well technically what's left of it, LOL) And you thought this day would never come.
OK, now for the record I am not yanking this thing out in order to paint the engine bay, as I still believe you can do a "good enuff" job with it being in there. I am pulling this 289 out because it is toast and I have a 302 ready to go in. Yes we are crossing paths with the sister thread entitled "1968 289 H2O" in case you haven't seen that one yet.
Yes the transmission will be coming out too, geez let me breath for a minute will ya, jk.
Let's take a look around
so it's been roughly 9 months since I got this baby, and seems like I am going in reverse, heck what I wouldn't do to be going anywhere in this car, but all I'm doing is taking things off or apart, I'm sure some of you can relate, 9 months, that's long enough to make a human if you think about it but not finish a car, wow
ok enough pondering, here's what the engine bay looks like now, I know my camera sucks, I meant to say that 100 posts ago, well actually it is ok unless you are shooting in the dark, like in the garage, in other words 90% of the time in my case, lol
so yes I took a little sabbatical from scratching and painting and trader my paint brush for a spanner and now it's time to trade back...
so it's been roughly 9 months since I got this baby, and seems like I am going in reverse, heck what I wouldn't do to be going anywhere in this car, but all I'm doing is taking things off or apart, I'm sure some of you can relate, 9 months, that's long enough to make a human if you think about it but not finish a car, wow
ok enough pondering, here's what the engine bay looks like now, I know my camera sucks, I meant to say that 100 posts ago, well actually it is ok unless you are shooting in the dark, like in the garage, in other words 90% of the time in my case, lol
so yes I took a little sabbatical from scratching and painting and trader my paint brush for a spanner and now it's time to trade back...
skywalker
Member
Metal Rescue Review
One day I was either sitting on the couch watching Two Guys Garage or thumbing through Car Craft magazine on the toilet I don't recall which but I came across an ad for two scantily dressed ladies promoting a product called Metal Rescue. Wow if I get my wife to use this product to clean the rust off of my '68 Mustang will she look like that I thought!
It was like being held at gun point I had to try it, a week or two later the leaky box was on my porch.
Greg, why in the world are you showing us a packing box, sometimes your detail is too much... ok there's always a madness to my method so follow the bouncy ball sorta speak
You can't buy this product locally in my neck of the woods yet, I can't pick it up at Pep Zone or Auto Boys. This product has to be [imported to you from Michigan, LOL] ground shipped to you and that is more costly, actually nearly doubled the cost of the $25 dollar gallon of product, but for the sake of science and learning I had to buy it to try it and share it with you all. So the shipping box is a reminder, aka universal symbol of that.
View attachment 189318
One day I was either sitting on the couch watching Two Guys Garage or thumbing through Car Craft magazine on the toilet I don't recall which but I came across an ad for two scantily dressed ladies promoting a product called Metal Rescue. Wow if I get my wife to use this product to clean the rust off of my '68 Mustang will she look like that I thought!
It was like being held at gun point I had to try it, a week or two later the leaky box was on my porch.
Greg, why in the world are you showing us a packing box, sometimes your detail is too much... ok there's always a madness to my method so follow the bouncy ball sorta speak
You can't buy this product locally in my neck of the woods yet, I can't pick it up at Pep Zone or Auto Boys. This product has to be [imported to you from Michigan, LOL] ground shipped to you and that is more costly, actually nearly doubled the cost of the $25 dollar gallon of product, but for the sake of science and learning I had to buy it to try it and share it with you all. So the shipping box is a reminder, aka universal symbol of that.
View attachment 189318
You might want to check out a product called evaporust next time. It works under the same principle, but is available at harbor freight for $20 a gallon. Works just as well if not better and you can reuse it after every use. You could print out a 20% off coupon and save another $4 on top of that.
Evapo-Rust Rust Remover Home
Or, if you have a spare battery charger, you could look into electrolysis.
Evapo-Rust Rust Remover Home
Or, if you have a spare battery charger, you could look into electrolysis.
Metal Rescue Results - 1 Hour Later
Here are the results of the first test, I will share pictures with you taken once every hour for four hours.
Please forgive me for the crummy photos they did not turn out as well as I would have hoped, one being way too dark to see the rust, so you think it is gone but not really.
Not much happened after 1 hour, so I decided to give it a little nudge with a wire brush.
Here are the results of the first test, I will share pictures with you taken once every hour for four hours.
Please forgive me for the crummy photos they did not turn out as well as I would have hoped, one being way too dark to see the rust, so you think it is gone but not really.
Not much happened after 1 hour, so I decided to give it a little nudge with a wire brush.
