Going back to stock upper control arms?

Aug 13, 2018
13
2
13
31
Milwaukee, WI
#1
Ok guys, going to come off as a noob here. About 4 years ago I found my diff bushing were shot so I decided to change out my stock UCA and LCA with summit racing knock off brand. To say the least the bushing have all but failed and causing crazy sway when driving. I have found many reviews from people saying to stick with the stock upper control arms and MM lowers, can anyone confirm? I have a 393 stroker making roughly 350whp now and want a decent setup in the rear but I hardly drag the car. Looking for a street/strip mix, its a vert so I have no interest in auto cross.
 
  • Sponsors (?)

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
9,546
3,039
193
polk county florida
#2
Stock uppers, change the bushings in the rear housing too, mm lowers are good.
 
Jun 17, 2018
76
9
18
E. TN
#3
^^I agree. I have Ford uppers and replaced the differential bushings with Ford pieces (all 4 bushings are rubber). I have MM heavy duty lowers (poly at chassis and spherical at rear end). Purchased everything from MM, including the bushing install tool for the differential bushings. Consider subframe connectors as well if not already done.
 
Aug 13, 2018
13
2
13
31
Milwaukee, WI
#4
I should have clarified better. I replaced the diff bushings 4 years back with the ford rubber and they still look brand new. The upper control arm poly bushing on the otherside though are completely toast. My factory upper control arms I decided not to toss (Thanks god) still have solid looking bushings also. I was going to get the MM Non adjustable heavy duty lowers from CJ Pony unless anyone else has recommendations where to purchase. I have welded subframe connectors also.
 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
14,527
289
144
47
Boca Raton, Florida
www.mustangworks.com
#6
Ok guys, going to come off as a noob here. About 4 years ago I found my diff bushing were shot so I decided to change out my stock UCA and LCA with summit racing knock off brand. To say the least the bushing have all but failed and causing crazy sway when driving. I have found many reviews from people saying to stick with the stock upper control arms and MM lowers, can anyone confirm? I have a 393 stroker making roughly 350whp now and want a decent setup in the rear but I hardly drag the car. Looking for a street/strip mix, its a vert so I have no interest in auto cross.
Just went through this. I bought a used 94GT as a Father & Son project and when we were changing the stock springs for FRPP 5300-C springs we found an issue. The control arm bushings were completely destroyed and the puzzling part is they were rubber. Not only is rubber bad but it was cheap inferior rubber to boot.

I contacted Summit, sent them pictures and they claim that nobody has complained. I Googled and read reviews on Summit where a few people have claimed bushing failure. Please send summit the pictures as I just sent mine a few weeks ago. Most people just replace them and don't bother in showing Summit the issue. Here is the email to use [email protected]

Summit would not stand behind their product an admit fault or even send out replacement poly bushings. They told me I could buy the bushing kit for their control arms for $93.00. I was shocked, the entire upper / lower control arm set is like $159 but just the bushings are $93.00? They said that's all they can offer.

I wound up making my own polyurethane bushings for now. In a few months I'm going to set fire to these and replace with the Steeda Upper / Lower control arm set that I had on my previous 94.

You can see how I made the bushings in our Father & Son videos.

Episode 4 is where we found the rubber bushing issue.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nl0pI86GiaQ


Episode 5 is where we make the bushing kit.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQC1SkFTpvs
 

Davedacarpainter

I think I've messed my pants
SN Certified Technician
Nov 28, 2015
10,533
9,268
193
56
Discordia
#7
I should have clarified better. I replaced the diff bushings 4 years back with the ford rubber and they still look brand new. The upper control arm poly bushing on the otherside though are completely toast. My factory upper control arms I decided not to toss (Thanks god) still have solid looking bushings also. I was going to get the MM Non adjustable heavy duty lowers from CJ Pony unless anyone else has recommendations where to purchase. I have welded subframe connectors also.
Compare prices, LMR usually runs cheaper. Even my MM SFC’s were less there than MM’s own website
 
Aug 13, 2018
13
2
13
31
Milwaukee, WI
#8
Just went through this. I bought a used 94GT as a Father & Son project and when we were changing the stock springs for FRPP 5300-C springs we found an issue. The control arm bushings were completely destroyed and the puzzling part is they were rubber. Not only is rubber bad but it was cheap inferior rubber to boot.

I contacted Summit, sent them pictures and they claim that nobody has complained. I Googled and read reviews on Summit where a few people have claimed bushing failure. Please send summit the pictures as I just sent mine a few weeks ago. Most people just replace them and don't bother in showing Summit the issue. Here is the email to use [email protected]

Summit would not stand behind their product an admit fault or even send out replacement poly bushings. They told me I could buy the bushing kit for their control arms for $93.00. I was shocked, the entire upper / lower control arm set is like $159 but just the bushings are $93.00? They said that's all they can offer.

I wound up making my own polyurethane bushings for now. In a few months I'm going to set fire to these and replace with the Steeda Upper / Lower control arm set that I had on my previous 94.

You can see how I made the bushings in our Father & Son videos.

Episode 4 is where we found the rubber bushing issue.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nl0pI86GiaQ


Episode 5 is where we make the bushing kit.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQC1SkFTpvs
Good videos and thanks for the info. I will be contacting Summit regarding this. I placed my order for the MM lowers through LMR and cant wait to get them. Going to clean up the factory uppers for now and put them in. Might try to weld in a brace under the U section.
 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
14,527
289
144
47
Boca Raton, Florida
www.mustangworks.com
#9
Good videos and thanks for the info. I will be contacting Summit regarding this. I placed my order for the MM lowers through LMR and cant wait to get them. Going to clean up the factory uppers for now and put them in. Might try to weld in a brace under the U section.
Good call and I'm glad you'll submit pictures, they need to hear / see about this. Plus it's fresh since I've been going back / forth with them about this.

Which LMR's did you get?

I'm for sure going Steeda again, loved the ones I had.

Lots of people just weld a plate onto the stock upper / lower so they don't flex. I follow a guy on YouTube who drag races on a very limited budget and he's knocking down 1.4 sixty foots on stock upper / lowers with just bolt on's (300 rear horsepower).
 

Mustang5L5

Car used in adult film "Highway Gangbang-InDaButt"
SN Certified Technician
Feb 18, 2001
28,782
5,700
224
Massachusetts
#11
I run that setup. MM HD adjustable lower arms, and new stock Ford upper arms
 
Jun 17, 2018
76
9
18
E. TN
#12
I like my MM HD lowers. Check your torque boxes over for twists, tears and broken welds before you put it back together.
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
9,698
6,431
204
In the garage
#13
the 94/95 uppers are a little stiffer. i wouldnt box them on a street car as you want them to flex a little. MM lowers are the way to go. You do not need adhjustable ones for a street car that you dont need to adjust ride height on.
 
Aug 13, 2018
13
2
13
31
Milwaukee, WI
#14
Thanks for the info. I was debating if I should box them or not. The car is 99% just cruising around on the street with the occasional gear pull.
 
Aug 13, 2018
13
2
13
31
Milwaukee, WI
#15
Few more questions guys, ive cleaned up my factory UCA's and from what i can see they are the same part number/design/universal unlike the aftermarket ones. Is this correct? Also, is it easier to replace the UCA's with the lower control arms mounted ? I took all 4 out before starting the UCA's last time and it was an absolute B**** to get the uppers in.
 
Jun 17, 2018
76
9
18
E. TN
#16
If I read your first question correctly, there is no left or right for the factory uca...unless you want to put them back in their original positions. I changed my control arms out one at a time to maintain control of differential...I did not completely tighten everything up until all four were in and ride height was established.
 
Aug 13, 2018
13
2
13
31
Milwaukee, WI
#17
Yea thats what I thought. I found the UCA's have the same number stamped on them. Before tightening the arms, can I establish ride height by jacking the rear end up while the car sits on jack stands or do I need the actual car to be on the wheels with full weight?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
9,546
3,039
193
polk county florida
#19
You want the weight on the suspension, you can place jack stands under the rear end housing and the front control arms, then car is level.
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
9,698
6,431
204
In the garage
#20
Yea thats what I thought. I found the UCA's have the same number stamped on them. Before tightening the arms, can I establish ride height by jacking the rear end up while the car sits on jack stands or do I need the actual car to be on the wheels with full weight?
It depends- if you have stock bushings or MM control arms then you can tighten them up with the car in the air. If you have control arms that have poly bushings on BOTH ends, then you need to have the car with the suspension loaded or else you will get binding, as they poly bushings do not articulate as much.
 

Similar threads