right you are ... i'm a dumbass. i had the belt routing wrong. from the alt, it goes up over the s/c pulley, then down to the small idler/tensioner pulley to the left of the snout, then under the a/c line to the p/s pulley95CobraMike said:
Going Kenne Bell (again)
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My hats off to you - working outside on a car in winter - THAT is dedication to doing something you like to do.
thanks, but i'm not quite that hard core. it was 50 degrees today ...tmoss said:
but i do have other news ...
i got everything else back together and all that is left is to:
- put synthetic oil in the supercharger
- put antifreeze in
- load the tune
- say my hail marys
- turn the key
Hail Mary, full of grace.
Our Lord is with you.
Blessed are you among women,
and blessed is the fruit of your womb,
Jesus.
Holy Mary, Mother of God,
pray for us sinners,
now and at the hour of our death.
Amen.
... and i'm not even catholic (i'm lutheran) ...
well i started it up. it started ok, and idled a little high, but it seemed ok. there was some smoke from the headers, but that stopped after a few minutes, so i figured that was just from oil or whatnot that had gotten on them when i was working on it.
after idling for a while and making sure there was no fuel leaks, i decided to try going around the block.
i drove gently and carefully around the block. i was afraid to open the throttle very much because i don't trust the tune right now.
the next time i started it up, there was a big cloud of white smoke and some there is white smoke coming out the tailpipes when it is idling, so i am afraid i either blew a head gasget, or i screwed up putting it together and it is burning coolant. it may have been like that before and i may have just not noticed it.
is there a certain exhaust smell when you are burning coolant?
i don't have the time or energy right now to tear it all apart again and start over. i am going to take it to my mechanic and ask him to look at it.
if it is burning coolant, is it ok to drive (gently of course) the 20 miles to my mechanic or should i get it towed there?
after idling for a while and making sure there was no fuel leaks, i decided to try going around the block.
i drove gently and carefully around the block. i was afraid to open the throttle very much because i don't trust the tune right now.
the next time i started it up, there was a big cloud of white smoke and some there is white smoke coming out the tailpipes when it is idling, so i am afraid i either blew a head gasget, or i screwed up putting it together and it is burning coolant. it may have been like that before and i may have just not noticed it.
is there a certain exhaust smell when you are burning coolant?
i don't have the time or energy right now to tear it all apart again and start over. i am going to take it to my mechanic and ask him to look at it.
if it is burning coolant, is it ok to drive (gently of course) the 20 miles to my mechanic or should i get it towed there?
KBCobra95
New Member
Mine smokes when I first start it up cold (hot exhaust to cold weather?) But after it idles awhile it goes away. Check to see it there is oil in the coolant or vise versa
so if i'm burning some coolant, is it ok to drive 20 miles to my mechanic's or should i get it towed there?
It probably will be, but I wouldn't want to drive any further than that. Other than low oil, nothing takes a set of rod/main bearings out as fast as antifreeze in the oil. Burning antifreeze should have kind of a sweet smell to it. It may just be condensation, but only a thorough inspection of your engine will tell for sure.
i doubt my actions blew a hg, but there does seem to be white smoke in the exhaust, but it smells normal.final5-0 said:Congrats on your progress Chris
If you were only puttin around at light load, closed loop conditions
I doubt if you popped a hg
What are the highlights of your current start-up or baseline tune
Grady
the tune came from efipunk over on the eectuning forum. basically the fuel_table_stabilized_OL table is set to 11.89 at loads over 70%.
as far as i can tell, the spark tables are unchanged
load scaling switch is 2
01/05/2006 update
i drove the car to work today.
the good news is that i no longer think i have a coolant leak. i drove it the 15 miles to work and there was no smoke at all idling in the parking lot at the end. there is also the same amount of coolant in the reservior as before, so i think i'm ok there. it was probably just some coolant that had gotten in the exhaust track when i was working on it. i will continue to monitor it though.
the bad news is that i think i have a vacuum leak, rpms jump to and won't go below 2000 when the car is moving. they are at about 1300 when stopped. or maybe the iac is bad ...
i am getting detonation if i open the throttle too much so i am being very careful to give it just enough throttle to get where i am going until i figure out where the leak is. i assume the cause is the vacuum leak.
i'm also planning to get a timing light at autozone today. i'll try to set (10* with the spout connector out) it in the parking lot.
for the tune, i got a base tune with my maf transfer from a previous k/b guy on the eastern shore. fuel tables are richer and spark tables have less advance. i'm changing the t/b airflow scalar from .41 to .50 to see if that helps the idle. i know there is a process to determine it by disconnecting the iac and logging it at idle, but that is not at the top of the list right now.
thanks again to everyone for all your help!
i drove the car to work today.
the good news is that i no longer think i have a coolant leak. i drove it the 15 miles to work and there was no smoke at all idling in the parking lot at the end. there is also the same amount of coolant in the reservior as before, so i think i'm ok there. it was probably just some coolant that had gotten in the exhaust track when i was working on it. i will continue to monitor it though.
the bad news is that i think i have a vacuum leak, rpms jump to and won't go below 2000 when the car is moving. they are at about 1300 when stopped. or maybe the iac is bad ...
i am getting detonation if i open the throttle too much so i am being very careful to give it just enough throttle to get where i am going until i figure out where the leak is. i assume the cause is the vacuum leak.
i'm also planning to get a timing light at autozone today. i'll try to set (10* with the spout connector out) it in the parking lot.
for the tune, i got a base tune with my maf transfer from a previous k/b guy on the eastern shore. fuel tables are richer and spark tables have less advance. i'm changing the t/b airflow scalar from .41 to .50 to see if that helps the idle. i know there is a process to determine it by disconnecting the iac and logging it at idle, but that is not at the top of the list right now.
thanks again to everyone for all your help!
stprorolla49
Active Member
i can't find my camera ...stprorolla49 said:
the air leak turned out to be the throttle adjustment screw. the throttle was not closing all the way.
i didn't have time to get the timing light, so i pulled the spout connector for now.
94gts
Member
KBCobra95
New Member
Mustangless
Member
hope you get all the bugs worked out
01/06/2006 update
the vac feed to the canister purge solenoid broke (cps), which caused problems. i was getting pinging and the brakes were really hard to push. because of the way i designed the vacuum system, the break in the cps line cause no vacuum to get to the tree, which is needed by the brake booster.
so i reworked the cps line to another intake port so that is not a problem any more. i still should redo the pcv valve too so there is no possibility of loss of vacuum to the tree.
i also tried to set the timing, but i couldn't find the mark on the crank pulley, so i gave up. the spout connetor is still out.
i drove it a good bit tonight. boy is it a beast!
the vac feed to the canister purge solenoid broke (cps), which caused problems. i was getting pinging and the brakes were really hard to push. because of the way i designed the vacuum system, the break in the cps line cause no vacuum to get to the tree, which is needed by the brake booster.
so i reworked the cps line to another intake port so that is not a problem any more. i still should redo the pcv valve too so there is no possibility of loss of vacuum to the tree.
i also tried to set the timing, but i couldn't find the mark on the crank pulley, so i gave up. the spout connetor is still out.
i drove it a good bit tonight. boy is it a beast!
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