Progress Thread Goofy fuel gauge on slow progress

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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Did not know any actual weights... I had boats most of my life and so I picked this up being around some people with jet boats ( not my thing)... Learn something every day......
The factory intake on my 440 in my dodge, is heavy, not sure I could set in now.... I have an aluminum intake for it, but I just never wanted to fool with it being too tall or something not fitting right...... The tie strap on the heater hoses now has the correct retainer ..
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I forgot to post my source. It seems to be skimpy on Mopar engines.
 
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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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I second this. I’d rather recore a brass radiator than buy a new AL.


Nothing wrong with AL radiators, as many oems come with them and cool perfectly fine. It’s just given the two options, I’d prefer to have a brass unit.

I have a brass 3-core in my fox. I can keep my car cool by blowing a hair dryer into the radiator. It barely needs any E-fan at all when stationary.
I was not thinking clearly about this, so thanks for the best answer.
I’ve had two newer vehicles that a gasket or crimp on a side tank failed on. That is partially why a brass unit did not cross my mind. And - I was ticked off looking for my pressure test kit, wondering what I was going to have to get into into if it was not something with easy access, and the weather was changing fast.

If it’s the water pump, the last time I changed a Ford pump, it was with the tools in my travel tool box, it was outside a friends house in another town, and everything went well. I took a half day from work to get it done and back home.

Now, it seems a lot farther down into the engine bay! I hope the PO used lots of anti seize on the studs and bolts because the car is 30+ years old now.
And I am not investigating it in thunder- snow, rain and sleet. Nope.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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I always thought brass was much heavier and dissappated heat less efficiently.
Me personally, if for some reason I need a new radiator, it's going to be a Ron Davis. I've always wanted one. I think the fox version is $500.
 

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
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The old school brass radiators used to be brass end tanks and copper tube/fin. No idea what point that became cost prohibitive. Copper is a better thermal conductor than aluminum, but brass itself is not.

I do know there is an old-school mom-and-pop type shop near me that recores radiators for classics using some mix of brass/copper. I did look into having them recore my old heater core for me.

I’m using a 20+ year old brass 3-core radiator from GDI. There’s nothing wrong with AL at all, as it does quite well in terms of thermal conductivity. The main issue is finding a quality AL radiator.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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A quick update on the leak. It was not the radiator. When the coolant system was pressurized, a gasket for the timing cover and water pump pours coolant. Why it does not at least drip while cold, I do not know.
It is getting a new water pump to put in while there, and a careful inspection of the timing cover. I hope the fasteners had anti-seize used on them.

And I’m going to let someone replace the right inner tie rod end and align it.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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What materials were the stock timing gears made of in ‘90? :scratch:

In ‘79, the cam gear was fiber/resin. That was OK for noise reduction, but had play by the first time I changed the cam in my first Mustang. I replaced it with a metal set.

In my 90, I was told which cam that was supposedly used. (It cannot be stock.) A double roller set would be the normal match, and I am wondering what I would find if the PO cheaped out with stock timing parts for a stock appearing class.
Thanks.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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It’s back on the road. And I’m slipping.
I’m not posting pics of the water pump and timing cover seal change as it went fine. And the timing set was a double roller like it should have been. The steering is tight with the inner tie rod not ready to fall apart. It could probably use an alignment now, but it’s still better than the tire shop does.

The PCV grommet and valve were out and probably have been for a while. :doh: (Out of sight, out of mind) The idle speed is at least 200 rpm higher and smoother than it was with the valve and grommet out! The parts are Motorcraft, and I was not ever happy with how loose they fit. Perhaps there is a better grommet available?
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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I haven't looked but they all likely fit the same, I used rtv on the grommet to hold it in the manifold.
I was wondering about using that. Clean the socket with carb cleaner or Brake/Electric cleaner first?

I might as well remove the oil separator I put in the line to check out blowby when I first got the car. If it hasn’t much oil in it by now, I do not need a catch can.
 
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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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How do I check for worn u joints?
I think I know but am hoping for an easy answer I don’t know.

I got an aluminum Ford driveshaft ten-ish years ago and not enough miles, and I want to check in case a couple of caps are frozen like on the old driveshaft and it’s causing some whine in the rear.

@MustangIIMatt etc.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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My next immediate problem with my Mustang is the visors I had recovered when I got it. They are the ones with the lighted mirrors. They are puffy and hang down a bit at best. The upholstery guy that recovered them in the black with embossed vinyl managed to save the lighted mirrors, but he used peel and stick vinyl that does not stick well on hot days for holding the flaps closed. So I have come out in the morning and found a visor or two down with the lights on. I can clean off the old Velcro stickies and E-6000 some new Velcro on, but that does not help the drooping visors. Is there a place that sells quality, basic visors that I do not need to pinch the metal on the visor shaft and recover again? Should I look for a good used pair of 1991 visors to pinch and recover? The lights on the driver’s mirror are intermittent anyway. I would like them out of the way most days.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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Second issue, the headliner was already recovered, and I suspect the PO un-foamed the board headliner, then used the door upholstery trim spray adhesive for the new vinyl and for the custom MDF insert for the sunroof that’s covered in the same vinyl. It is drooping a bit over the back driver’s seat. And the sunroof insert vinyl is coming up on the top side.
1. I would like to use 3M headliner adhesive, as it was the strongest spray on contact adhesive for consumers for years. Is this still a good choice, is there a stronger spray contact adhesive, or should I have a pro do it?
2. What hassles is the stock sunroof going to give me to get the headliner in and out?
Thanks!
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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I got the hard plastic one from LMR (I think) years ago, best money spent at the time, imagine they are pretty pricey by now.
Mine originally was vinyl but not now :confused:
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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TMI is listing only black cloth visors, with or without mirrors. I cannot believe I’m the only one who sits tall enough to be irritated by the visors. Any other suggestions for interiors?

@General karthief what is your headliner backer now, cardboard again? And why?
I do not feel any warps or suspected water damaged areas over the vinyl. With a sunroof, I would be surprised if it was really in that good of shape.
 

Mustang5L5

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My original sunroof board was cardboard. I’ve recovered it twice now and it’s held up nicelt
 
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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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Pictures of drooping visors and wrinkled headliner for attention.
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How does the rubber strip around the inside work with the headliner?
Any good suggestions on the drooping visors? They stay up about half this distance on not super hot days.
 

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
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I think the visors just stay due to internal friction on the visor rod.

For the rubber trim, you just remove the sunroof and peel it off from the outside. When you put the new headliner in, pull the material tight and install the rubber strip to hold it. I used paperclips with glue, and then trimmed with a sharp razor

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