Progress Thread Goofy fuel gauge on slow progress

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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I think the visors just stay due to internal friction on the visor rod.

For the rubber trim, you just remove the sunroof and peel it off from the outside. When you put the new headliner in, pull the material tight and install the rubber strip to hold it. I used paperclips with glue, and then trimmed with a sharp razor

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Great pic!
Is the rubber ring or strip glued in? Does it go over the edge where you have the cloth clipped and glued? I think it was replaced when the headliner was - before I got the car. But the installation could have been neater.

I have done cloth and bow type headliners, and have done a hard board headliner, but not one with a factory sunroof.
 
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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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And with 100+ degree temps this week, that board is staying put. This week I wish it was a solid top with insulation.
 

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
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The rubber just kinda pressed down and uses friction to hold it in place.

The headliner itself is glued to the seam. That’s why I have the clips. Glue, pull tight, clip. Trim and then put the rubber gasket on.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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The rubber just kinda pressed down and uses friction to hold it in place.

The headliner itself is glued to the seam. That’s why I have the clips. Glue, pull tight, clip. Trim and then put the rubber gasket on.
I hope the PO did not glue the seal over what looks like a pinch weld.
Any chance the visor slides off (to the center of the car) of the pivot rod that screws to the roof? I’m willing to try carefully pinch the metal in the spine if it comes off the rod.
BTW, Thanks. I really like to know what I’m doing before I dive in
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
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I’ve been around long enough to know that if @Mustang5L5 did it a certain way…… that’s the way you should do it!! An engineers mind is nothing to waste!!
 

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
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That’s not in doubt.
How to fix my visors still is.

Unfortunately I just haven’t dove into that project. The visors I had were in excellent shape so I’ve never pulled a pair apart. Uncharted territory unfortunately
 
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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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Unfortunately I just haven’t dove into that project. The visors I had were in excellent shape so I’ve never pulled a pair apart. Uncharted territory unfortunately
Then I will post on how when 1. It drives me Completely nuts or 2. When my other project gets home, whichever happens first.
(where’s Mad Mike when he’s needed? :))
 
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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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I figured out how they come apart properly at a stop sign by skipping a step.

1. If they are lighted, remove the visor from the roof and disconnect the wire from the connector in the roof. Then feed the wire that’s on the visor through the hole in the base. (I skipped this part, and that’s why the wire is still there and not as much wire in the visor any more. Oops!)

2. Pull the visor off the end of the pivot rod with a good yank.

I’ll see if I can get it back together without the droop or exposed wire when it’s cooler.
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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I pulled apart a tattered visor I had, there is a metal piece riveted to the cardboard, it kinda has three pieces to it, the rod has a section that is flat on two sides that orient in the center metal section, kinda hard to visualize, the lighted mirror it actually bolted to the cardboard so you have to cut the cover at the seam to get to them, and I didn't yet find how to get the wire for the vanity lights out of the mount but I figure it has to be un -pinned to get through the hole.
I haven't seen a way to tighten it up beyond squeezing the center piece of metal a little, The visor I took apart was pretty tight.
 
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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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I pulled apart a tattered visor I had, there is a metal piece riveted to the cardboard, it kinda has three pieces to it, the rod has a section that is flat on two sides that orient in the center metal section, kinda hard to visualize, the lighted mirror it actually bolted to the cardboard so you have to cut the cover at the seam to get to them, and I didn't yet find how to get the wire for the vanity lights out of the mount but I figure it has to be un -pinned to get through the hole.
I haven't seen a way to tighten it up beyond squeezing the center piece of metal a little, The visor I took apart was pretty tight.
The visors on my car have either a butt end connector or bullet connector above the swivel plate from when they were removed before. (It’s been 10 years since I had them recovered to match the headliner.) The upholstery dude cut the melted studs without breaking the plastic mirror frame and used two screws to hold it in place.
I’m not sure which way electricity runs through the visor. @General karthief, were you able to see on the visor you took apart which was positive and which was ground? I think I have it “fingered” out (because I cannot see between the two layers of hard board).
There is a spade terminal that goes to the mirror side of the push button switch. It has a larger diameter wire that seems to run to the pivot side of the visor. I assume it’s the positive. It feels like the wire is run through two holes in the top board, and it broke rather than pull the switch when I pulled the visor. If I can keep from recovering or replacing them to tighten up the metal spine, I will run a new wire and solder it to the female spade terminal.

There is one thinner wire that runs from a bulb up toward the canter and I am guessing the spine to ground to the pivot rod.
I need to find my vice’s soft jaws or visit the new HFT store do I can try to gently squeeze the metal.
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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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I need to know where to start looking into this because I do not want to both drop the tank and pull the dash apart if it is not needed.
Last time I filled up, the needle never went much above half. I figured I did not get it full.
Today -
My fuel gauge was on the empty mark, and it took 10.5 gal to fill the tank.
30 miles down the road, the needle was halfway up.
59 miles it was at 7/8th of a tank.
I topped it off with 2.4 gal of gas, and it took at least ten miles to reach full.
Where do I start, the gage, sender or anti slosh module???
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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I would start by grounding the gauge wire at the connector at the tank, it should sweep straight to full.
I personally would guess the tank sender but I would have to consult my magic book for confirmation.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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I would start by grounding the gauge wire at the connector at the tank, it should sweep straight to full.
I personally would guess the tank sender but I would have to consult my magic book for confirmation.
It’s “greatly frustrating” to me that 1. it is reading right now it finally went to full so I cannot trust that I have it fixed and maybe know what’s broken. 2. It’s too dang hot to do by myself (or at all this week), and my assistant is going to back to school later in the week.

I figured that’s where I should start, but really did not want to. I should be able to make the gauge run up and down with that wire or part way with a certain resistance, right?
I’m trying to picture which way the electricity goes. Positive 12v before the gauge, then to the variable resistor of the ‘sender”, then to ground, right?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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After checking 'the magic book' it refers to using a ford tool that likely nobody has, I really want to collect some of these test tools, they are out there someplace but the book gives resistance readings for the sender so a VOM can be used for that:
145 ohms at full
22.5 at empty
Question #1 (GT model only) does the low fuel light work?
Note: GT model only, not sure if this is all GTs, mine is an 89.
#2 does the gauge stay in place when key is switched off?
 
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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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Sep 1, 2010
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After checking 'the magic book' it refers to using a ford tool that likely nobody has, I really want to collect some of these test tools, they are out there someplace but the book gives resistance readings for the sender so a VOM can be used for that:
145 ohms at full
22.5 at empty
Question #1 (GT model only) does the low fuel light work?
Note: GT model only, not sure if this is all GTs, mine is an 89.
#2 does the gauge stay in place when key is switched off?
There are the numbers! I had 60’s GM specs in my head and knew that was not likely right.

1. It’s a 91 LX factory 5.0. On purpose, I’ve never had the tank that low. But no light did come on when the needle went and stayed south.
#2. I will verify before I answer. That answer may have changed.