Progress Thread Got Another One! Pics

vristang

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www.SeattleBlueOvals.com
Now, off to fuel filter, oil change, ign timing, some interior R&R, and probably rear drum shoes. Slowly but surely she's coming along. And, um, a gear box will probably be in the not so distant future. The 1st / 2nd synchro is going. Everything else [seems] fine while driving, but who knows once inside. Therefore, I [might] be interested in a Ford T-56 with the 10 spline input (to keep stock size clutch). Anyone have any good ideas about this, or why to get something different, or just rebuild stock T5?
Starting to suspiciously sound like a project car:stick:
 
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joetrainer31

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Starting to suspiciously sound like a project car:stick:
I sure hope not! Only fixing what's broken and maintenance items. As far as trans goes; I'm researching the cost to rebuild (i.e., labor, parts, etc), vs buy new or used and R&R. I'm dreaming about a Ford T56, but it [is] way more expensive than other options.
 

joetrainer31

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God to see you back Joe.
Dumb question, but have you made sure the trans has fluid in it?
Thank you!

Not a dumb question. I have not actually checked that. Guess I could try pumping some in the top port on the pass side and see how much it takes.
 
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joetrainer31

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UPDATE: R&R'd external fuel filter. I think the last time this fuel filter was touched was in the assembly plant back in '92. The car easily feels 25-30% stronger. How can people not change a regular maintenance item like this? Take a look at this fossil!
20190920_193500.jpg
 
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joetrainer31

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UPDATE: Rear Brake Shoes Have Cracks.

I've pulled motors, fixed interiors, but have never done rear drum brakes. They look like a pain.
 

Gs87GT

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That is exactly how the one on my 87 looked when I changed it in June or July after I bought the car in April of this year. Mine was a motor motorcraft and I too suspect it was the OEM filter. 32 yrs old!

Like you, it felt like my car picked up 30hp (lol) after I changed it with a new motorcraft filter. I literally could hardly blow any air through mine. It had to be nearly plugged. I'm surprised the car even ran and didn't burn up the fuel pump.
 

joetrainer31

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That is exactly how the one on my 87 looked when I changed it in June or July after I bought the car in April of this year. Mine was a motor motorcraft and I too suspect it was the OEM filter. 32 yrs old!

Like you, it felt like my car picked up 30hp (lol) after I changed it with a new motorcraft filter. I literally could hardly blow any air through mine. It had to be nearly plugged. I'm surprised the car even ran and didn't burn up the fuel pump.
Do you have a pic? It would be funny to see.
 

joetrainer31

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God to see you back Joe.
Dumb question, but have you made sure the trans has fluid in it?
Went to check out fluid level in T5. I got the car up on jacks and tried to loosen the fill plug. King Kong must've put it on last. Tried WD40 and a breaker bar, but it was so tight the bar started to strip the plug. I immediately backed off when that happened. The drain plug is similar.

I know the output shaft seal is leaking. I'd like to put more fluid in it and I know it can be done after removing the center console and shifter. I have to remove the center anyways because I need access to the 12v power, but someone glued the center door shut!

The question is: is there any way of telling how much fluid is needed from the top of the unit (i.e., where the shifter goes)? I can add there, but I don't want to add too much.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
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The hardest part is getting the springs on. They make a nifty tool that is a finger saver.
The $10.99 one works good, all in one

Or you could be stubborn..... try to use pliers to stretch the spring over, slip, bust your knuckles, curse.... a lot.... then go get the right tool. (don’t ask me how I know)
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Or you could be stubborn..... try to use pliers to stretch the spring over, slip, bust your knuckles, curse.... a lot.... then go get the right tool. (don’t ask me how I know)
i won't ask, I think I already know
as for the trans fluid, without taking the plug out you can't tell that I know of. Maybe a small butane torch to heat up the area around the plug? It's aluminum and there is fluid inside, maybe a shot of that freeze stuff in a can would work better? I use anti seize on a lot of stuff like that, people tighten those things way more than they need.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
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Went to check out fluid level in T5. I got the car up on jacks and tried to loosen the fill plug. King Kong must've put it on last. Tried WD40 and a breaker bar, but it was so tight the bar started to strip the plug. I immediately backed off when that happened. The drain plug is similar.

I know the output shaft seal is leaking. I'd like to put more fluid in it and I know it can be done after removing the center console and shifter. I have to remove the center anyways because I need access to the 12v power, but someone glued the center door shut!

The question is: is there any way of telling how much fluid is needed from the top of the unit (i.e., where the shifter goes)? I can add there, but I don't want to add too much.

I’ve had better luck with PB blaster lately, instead of Wd.

But I usually hit the things I’m trying to break free a few times over a few days to give it time to really soak in.
 
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Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
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This probably won't be a pleasant answer but this is what I'd do if I were in your shoes.
First I've never even come close to feeling that I would strip one of those plugs. They are just a square drive. Seems unstrippable to me but here we are.
Almost everybody has a friend or at least knows someone at a shop with a lift. Go down there one day and talk to the mechanic. If you know them well they may let you run it up on the lift and do it yourself. Amazing how much more leverage you have standing with room than laying down under a car. If not.....Ask him if he would swap a threaded plug on your transmission between jobs, right before closing time, whatever. Give him a few bucks cash. It will cost much less than messing up that plug. Have an extra plug with you and just tell him to snug it at best. Drive home and do whatever you want.
Option two and the biggest pain. Pull the transmission and do it right before you kill the plug and have to pull it anyway. If you strip it you'll be taking the top cover off and....bad idea. Don't strip it.
 
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joetrainer31

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This probably won't be a pleasant answer but this is what I'd do if I were in your shoes.
First I've never even come close to feeling that I would strip one of those plugs. They are just a square drive. Seems unstrippable to me but here we are.
Almost everybody has a friend or at least knows someone at a shop with a lift. Go down there one day and talk to the mechanic. If you know them well they may let you run it up on the lift and do it yourself. Amazing how much more leverage you have standing with room that laying down under a car. If not.....Ask him if he would swap a threaded plug on your transmission between jobs, right before closing time, whatever. Give him a few bucks cash. It will cost much less than messing up that plug. Have an extra plug with you and just tell him to snug it at best. Drive home and do whatever you want.
Option two and the biggest pain. Pull the transmission and do it right before you kill the plug and have to pull it anyway. If you strip it you'll be taking the top cover off and....bad idea. Don't strip it.
I hear you.

I met a new friend today (at church), who happens to own a repair shop. It's a small shop, but he should be able to get me in shortly. We may just pull the whole thing at his shop.

I was going to try and prolong the pain by just refilling it, but my wife wants me to "just rip the bandaid off," and get the gearbox fixed right.
 

joetrainer31

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UPDATE:

Drum brakes should be coming next week. In the meantime I swapped out the headlights. In my opinion they look much better than the old ones. The reason for swapping is that the headlights seem to be dim at nighttime due to the smoked effect, and I don't see as well at night as I used to see. Check it out (before & after):

BEFORE
20190831_191134.jpg


AFTER
20191006_194654.jpg
20191006_194610.jpg
 

Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
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I hear you.

I met a new friend today (at church), who happens to own a repair shop. It's a small shop, but he should be able to get me in shortly. We may just pull the whole thing at his shop.

I was going to try and prolong the pain by just refilling it, but my wife wants me to "just rip the bandaid off," and get the gearbox fixed right.
Sounds good. If everything else is fine I wouldn't pull the whole thing. The only reason to do that would be thread repair if you can't get the plug out. Glad you made a good contact and potential car friend. Keep us posted.....pics would be great! :D
 

joetrainer31

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Sounds good. If everything else is fine I wouldn't pull the whole thing. The only reason to do that would be thread repair if you can't get the plug out. Glad you made a good contact and potential car friend. Keep us posted.....pics would be great! :D
Will do! The current issues with the gearbox are 1st to 2nd synchro failing, output shaft seal leaking (not sure if old seal, drive shaft yolk spur, or both as cause of leak). I was wanting to refill with fluid to prolong (hopefully), tearing open the gearbox.
 

MustangIIMatt

I need something stupid to play with
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The hardest part is getting the springs on. They make a nifty tool that is a finger saver.
The $10.99 one works good, all in one
I have those brake spring pliers, they suck.

When I do drum brakes at the shop, I use these instead:

Amazon productView: https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Original-Locking-Pliers-1602L3/dp/B0000BYD9A/ref=sr_1_2?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt8vunvmI5QIVg4bACh0nCQMdEAAYASAAEgIh-PD_BwE&hvadid=153684532075&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1026831&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1648147317208948827&hvtargid=kwd-3209933608&hydadcr=1638_9515723&keywords=vise+grip+needle+nose&qid=1570410068&sr=8-2

Those springs aren't going anywhere you don't want them to when you've got them locked down in a pair of those. Throw in either a brake adjusting spoon (I just use the cheap one from Harbor Freight) or a strong flat-blade screwdriver and you're good to go.