Just got an email back from SHM with answers to my cam questions...like what would work best for my combo. They recommended SHM cam #2730 (230 duration intake and exhaust, .500 lift intake and exhaust). Anyone have this in a Stang? My car is an automatic, 3.55 gears, FIPK, BBK 70mm throttle body, C&L upper intake, Steeda timing adjuster...the usual bolt ons. Only thing different is the fact I have PI heads with a port job. Why would they recommend a NPI cam for a car with PI heads? This car will remain N/A. Also would consider buying used roller cams as they generally don't wear. Anyone got any used 4.6L SOHC PI or NPI camshafts ( Crane, Comp, Crower, Livernois, SHM, VT, Modmax ) for sale? Thanks. By the way, how do I post a picture to my posts?
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Did you let them know you had PI heads? That would probably make a difference or the person you talked to didn't realize you had a swap.
Not sure I understand your post. On one hand you indicate I should by from them since this is what they recommend. On the other hand, you say they aren't in the business to tell me what cams would work the best for my combination...maybe I'm misunderstanding what you mean. I have the following performance modifications:tjm73 said:
Engine
Taylor 9mm plug wires
Steeda underdrive pulleys
Steeda timing adjuster
BBK 70mm throttle body
K&N FIPK Gen II
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
BBK fuel pressure gauge
C&L TruFlow Upper Intake
PI ported heads
Exhaust
Flowmaster mufflers
UPR “X” pipe
UPR MIL eliminators
3.55 rear gears
I need a cam for street only (not a race car) and the car is an automatic...any recommendations? Thanks.
Because if you were to go with a high lift cam like the .550 lift PI cams, You would be shifting over 6k. With the 3.55 gears and an auto, you would need a tune and or get some better gears.
They told you the .500 because it would more suit your other mods.
They told you the .500 because it would more suit your other mods.
96SOHC said:
You're missing part of my sentence. They are in business to recommend and SELL parts. I wrote
tjm73 said:
What that means is don't ask companies to recommend parts and then go buy them someplace else. They took the time to answer your questions, expecting you'd likely make a purchase from them. If everyone asked them questions then went elsewhere to get the part, they would go out of business.
I see this all the time at my father's business. Someone asks what's wrong with their car and then want's to go buy the parts someplace else to fix the car. Or worse want's him to install the parts they bought someplace else.
LS2 KLR
Member
I installed my new shortblock with the 2730 cams in Feb of this year. I made 301 NA with the stock heads. I sold them a month or so ago with 800 miles on them for $350. Though I have no complaints about them, I think with my setup they were too mild.
I'll admit I've done this too but the shop charges a 'consulting' fee. Most shops have plenty of business and are happy to help as long as they get paid for the expertise. Pretty easy money for just talking to someone about a problem.tjm73 said:
As far as getting recommendations for a cam set-up, that is the business they are in and they fully understand that some will get info and then use it somewhere else. Fair? No but it is a pitfall of running a business. I would go with what they recommended, but ask again to be sure that it is fully understood what you have done to the car. Point out that you have done the head swap and are wondering if that makes a difference since they recommended a NPI cam. If it was a mistake they will glad you caught it instead of sending you the wrong part and causing future problems. No one is perfect.
All,
I thank you for your input and most likely will purchase the 2730 cams from SHM after another brief phone call to make sure they fully understand what my setup is and what my goals are. By the way, I highly recommend his book to any 4.6/5.4 followers.
As far as obtaining information/recommendations from one source and and using it elsewhere to your best advantage...I think that's how a lot of businesses got their start.
Again, thanks. Without all these great minds on this forum, how would any of us make a decision what to do next to the car!!
I thank you for your input and most likely will purchase the 2730 cams from SHM after another brief phone call to make sure they fully understand what my setup is and what my goals are. By the way, I highly recommend his book to any 4.6/5.4 followers.
As far as obtaining information/recommendations from one source and and using it elsewhere to your best advantage...I think that's how a lot of businesses got their start.
Again, thanks. Without all these great minds on this forum, how would any of us make a decision what to do next to the car!!
4.6_02_Black_GT
Founding Member
96SOHC,
What was your reason for ruling out the CompCam product and opting for the SHM cam?? just curious??. After reading the write-up in this months 5.0 mag. I'm sold on their cams. They used the non-PI cam XE268H and springs.(very similiar to the cam spec you are looking at) I'm going for the PI XE270AH cams and springs. I'm hoping to be lucky and not have the ticking problem so many have experienced.
What was your reason for ruling out the CompCam product and opting for the SHM cam?? just curious??. After reading the write-up in this months 5.0 mag. I'm sold on their cams. They used the non-PI cam XE268H and springs.(very similiar to the cam spec you are looking at) I'm going for the PI XE270AH cams and springs. I'm hoping to be lucky and not have the ticking problem so many have experienced.
The reason is simple...SHM specializes in 4.6 and 5.4 engines and has done so since day one of the Mustang 4.6L. While Comp makes a great product and I seriously considered their cams, its hard to beat specialized experience. Read the recently released book from SHM, its packed full of modular information! For example...SHM states there isn't a reliable spring made (yet) that can handle over .550 of lift and that the stock Ford 4.6L valve spring is adequate for moderate performance levels. Why spend $180-$200 bucks on springs when they aren't necessary. I don't believe everything I read...but I do research everything I read.4.6_02_Black_GT said:
4.6_02_Black_GT
Founding Member
96 SOHC...
Interesting that you mentioned the valve springs, since I've been reading too about all the ticking problems, I'm considering just swapping the cams out first, then running the car and checking for any ticking sounds. Hopefully none, then as you stated, I may just run awhile without replacing the springs to see how it dyno's. I agree on the spring, I believe that unless you are trying to run the heavier spring to gain some additional engine rpm 5500rpm +, you might be able to get by without them. But with high lift cam, one will have to be careful not to push above the 5000 rpm, for fear of crushing a spring or possiblly picking up some valve float north of 5000 rpm.
I'm more concerned with doing the cams first and running to verify I've picked up no ticking sounds. Then I my go back and pull the cover and change the springs if I dont like the hp.torque gains.
Interesting that you mentioned the valve springs, since I've been reading too about all the ticking problems, I'm considering just swapping the cams out first, then running the car and checking for any ticking sounds. Hopefully none, then as you stated, I may just run awhile without replacing the springs to see how it dyno's. I agree on the spring, I believe that unless you are trying to run the heavier spring to gain some additional engine rpm 5500rpm +, you might be able to get by without them. But with high lift cam, one will have to be careful not to push above the 5000 rpm, for fear of crushing a spring or possiblly picking up some valve float north of 5000 rpm.
I'm more concerned with doing the cams first and running to verify I've picked up no ticking sounds. Then I my go back and pull the cover and change the springs if I dont like the hp.torque gains.
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