Engine Grocery Getter cam recommendation

limp

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Oct 4, 2020
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So my Explorer engine is coming home from the machine shop shortly.. 030 bore with some forged "stock compression" pistons using the GT40P heads that came on the engine.
I was getting ready to order a Flow Tech cam, but wondering if that would be overkill?? This is going in my 83 vert that will also get a 5 speed..
This car is going to be an around town car with some short trips maybe, with an " occasional go through the gears on the on ramp" burn out the carbon event"...
Would a flow tech still be my best bet??
 
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Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Ed does have a few GT40-specific cams on his site. However, they are pricey and require a modified cam plate as well. If you need spring, it adds tot he total as well, so might not be a cost effective solution. The biggest "watchout" is the statement that it won't work with the factory ECU and needs a tune.



I did go with a custom grind cam from FTI for my combo for a cruise-around-town setup. Is it overkill? I don't think so if the end result is something with a very streetable idle and good power where you want it for your combo. I was pulling my hair out trying to decipher cam specs and determine which was the optimal cam. In the end, i bought an FTI custom ground and told Ed i wanted street manners and to favor low end torque. It did however require new springs on my TFS heads, so price of cam and springs did make it a bit more expensive than an OTS cam.

I imagine with GT40P heads you are changing the springs regardless right?
 

7991LXnSHO

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The 83 indicates the probability of a carb, not a factory ECU. Just curious if you are going that way, and about the trans.

Have you contacted Comp cams tech support with all the info on your compete combo? They have enough standard designs that you could easily get a great off the shelf match and be as happy for less and quicker. I had a custom grind for my last engine build (Crower), but it was far from a bellybutton engine with a 75% increase in Hp over stock.And I wanted it in a power range for an automatic with a higher stall convertor.
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
Oct 4, 2020
608
282
73
66
Florida
Ed does have a few GT40-specific cams on his site. However, they are pricey and require a modified cam plate as well. If you need spring, it adds tot he total as well, so might not be a cost effective solution. The biggest "watchout" is the statement that it won't work with the factory ECU and needs a tune.



I did go with a custom grind cam from FTI for my combo for a cruise-around-town setup. Is it overkill? I don't think so if the end result is something with a very streetable idle and good power where you want it for your combo. I was pulling my hair out trying to decipher cam specs and determine which was the optimal cam. In the end, i bought an FTI custom ground and told Ed i wanted street manners and to favor low end torque. It did however require new springs on my TFS heads, so price of cam and springs did make it a bit more expensive than an OTS cam.

I imagine with GT40P heads you are changing the springs regardless right?
The out of the box GT40 cams will not work well for a carbed engine, per Ed..... I plan on some new beehive springs and roller TIP rockers, lunati makes em.. This stuff keeps adding up....LOL..
 

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Potomus Pete

Gretchen Whitmer is eating at me
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The out of the box GT40 cams will not work well for a carbed engine, per Ed..... I plan on some new beehive springs and roller TIP rockers, lunati makes em.. This stuff keeps adding up....LOL..
Do those rockers fit directly on our cars E-7,GT 40
 

limp

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Oct 4, 2020
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Then call Lunati’s tech line and get their best fit cam to go with their springs.
Everytime I have looked at Lunati's cams they are way overkill..
I just looked at some Comp cams and they are out of stock until the end of July...
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
Oct 4, 2020
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The 83 indicates the probability of a carb, not a factory ECU. Just curious if you are going that way, and about the trans.
The 83 is a Factory 5.0 liter, with a SROD and a 7.5" rear... I plan on installing a 98 explorer motor ( this is he short block coming back from the machine shop).. I have not even looked at the heads yet, they are sitting on my work bench....
I plan on a TKX and have posted here about the 9 inch rear end I am going to install in it....
Yes it will be a carbureted no ecm car. I am a real believer in the "Kiss" method... Keep It Simple Stupid"......
 

7991LXnSHO

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Everytime I have looked at Lunati's cams they are way overkill..
I just looked at some Comp cams and they are out of stock until the end of July...
:doh::bang:
That’s why you call -
1. asto get the right part numbers for your application.
2. to verify stock there.
3. To have the right number when you call other suppliers of their parts.

There are other cam and spring companies to call or email.
 

7991LXnSHO

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The 83 is a Factory 5.0 liter, with a SROD and a 7.5" rear... I plan on installing a 98 explorer motor ( this is he short block coming back from the machine shop).. I have not even looked at the heads yet, they are sitting on my work bench....
I plan on a TKX and have posted here about the 9 inch rear end I am going to install in it....
Yes it will be a carbureted no ecm car. I am a real believer in the "Kiss" method... Keep It Simple Stupid"......
Take it easy on the SROD until the TKX is in stock. The 7.5” diff is stronger than the SROD in my experience. The SROD is a major pain to get fixed right once the forks are bent and a gear and syncros are damaged.

A Holley 600 CFM vac secondary (even a classic Holley 1850-x ) will work great on a Performer 302 EGR manifold.
If no EGR, I’d check for hood clearance and shop around for the 302 RPM version.

I swiped an 83 gt hood scoop and dual snorkel air cleaner set up for my 79, centered the scoop over the breather, and opened up the hood under it for clearance. When the 79 engine spun a bearing on the highway (or broke the oil pump shaft), I had an E-7 long block lined up. That cam and the better factory heads worked as well as the Comp 268 H cam had in the stock block.

I never really abused the SROD after it was repaired, (I was smooth on the clutch, then heavy on the throttle.) The 7.5” limited slip diff was not a problem with street tires. My car still got 21 mpg on the highway while being a fun ride.
Good luck!
 

7991LXnSHO

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Edit to above thoughts. A Stock E-7 cam (with the Performer 302 EGR intake, headers and dual exhaust) was enough to beat Camaro with “Corvette” engines cir 1993. Unless you want rumble, you do not need much of a cam, and certainly not a custom one for a Grocery Getter.
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
Oct 4, 2020
608
282
73
66
Florida
Take it easy on the SROD until the TKX is in stock. The 7.5” diff is stronger than the SROD in my experience. The SROD is a major pain to get fixed right once the forks are bent and a gear and syncros are damaged.

A Holley 600 CFM vac secondary (even a classic Holley 1850-x ) will work great on a Performer 302 EGR manifold.
If no EGR, I’d check for hood clearance and shop around for the 302 RPM version.

I swiped an 83 gt hood scoop and dual snorkel air cleaner set up for my 79, centered the scoop over the breather, and opened up the hood under it for clearance. When the 79 engine spun a bearing on the highway (or broke the oil pump shaft), I had an E-7 long block lined up. That cam and the better factory heads worked as well as the Comp 268 H cam had in the stock block.

I never really abused the SROD after it was repaired, (I was smooth on the clutch, then heavy on the throttle.) The 7.5” limited slip diff was not a problem with street tires. My car still got 21 mpg on the highway while being a fun ride.
Good luck!

Here is the new rear and the last time I saw the SROD before it went under my workbench
DSCF0714.JPG
DSCF0734.JPG
 

7991LXnSHO

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It’s going to make the weaker parts blow chunks if they are not in the car. :puke:
It will save you a AAA towing and some labor, but there are fewer good stories without testing them to distraction.
 

7991LXnSHO

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With the vac secondaries, that carb should be able to be rebuilt and tuned. (If it is not a Holley, Motorcraft made a good copy!) But a new 600 CFM universal vac secondary carb would be easier to tune and more fun to get than a can of B-12 soak, a rebuild kit, and a quick change secondary spring kit. This one has seen a lot.
(I am stealing a pic to help someone else. Thanks!)
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
Oct 4, 2020
608
282
73
66
Florida
With the vac secondaries, that carb should be able to be rebuilt and tuned. (If it is not a Holley, Motorcraft made a good copy!) But a new 600 CFM universal vac secondary carb would be easier to tune and more fun to get than a can of B-12 soak, a rebuild kit, and a quick change secondary spring kit. This one has seen a lot.
(I am stealing a pic to help someone else. Thanks!)
I am planning on getting a summit 500 CFM 4 barrel.... I want to make up for all those "bigger are better" carbs from my youth.....
 

7991LXnSHO

10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
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At 95% volumetric efficiency (which these heads will never reach) and 6000 RPM, you are correct that you will not need all 500 CFM. With the vac secondaries, I liked the tune ability and extra margin of a 600 CFM.
Have you researched who makes the Summit carbs, if they are an Asian copy of a good design, and whose parts fit? I have not looked into that lately and am curious.
 
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