Guys Who Have Rebuilt T5s

Chuckman

GTFO you fat, heavy bastard
15 Year Member
Oct 21, 2005
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st. louis, mo
How loose is the output shaft bearing race supposed to be compared to the bore in the case? Tearing mine apart last night and the only odd thing I've seen so far is that race being so loose that it actually moves. Seen it sticking out and almost touching 5th as soon as i opened the tailhousing up.
 
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I realize it's not a true interference fit, but so far it being a a bit out of the hole, and the pilot bearing (and where it rides on the input) being a little chewed up are the only damage i see, and i don't know if either of those would really explain the random grinding and problems going into gear i was getting. All frictions and synchro teeth look great.
 
well, heres something that's NOT normal as far as i can tell.

went to look for a new input for it (pilot bearing surface is a bit too far gone for my tastes), and it has the standard 10-spline input and v8 pilot, but 28 teeth on the gear. looks like all that ever came in v8 mustangs was a 23-tooth (3.35 1st) and a 24-tooth (2.95 1st), so wtf is this thing out of? case is stamped as being a '92 model, and has the later 5th synchros and reverse spring/pin, but no neutral switch hole. bought it used years ago (as a "kit" with bell, flywheel, etc), and dont have the id tag.
 
Can you see the 3-digit number stamped on the countergear? If you get a flashlight, you might be able to see it wth the maingear still in the case.


As for the output bearing race, when you remove the tailhousing, it's loose. The tailhousing actually pressed the race into the taper bearings and is the "bearing stop" so to speak.

Late 92 T-5 would have the later style 5th and reverse setup. But AFAIK, it should still have the NSS on the top cover.

On the opposite end, we shim the input shaft to take out the slop in the mainshaft. If you grab the input and utput shaft together, and can move them in and out, then you need to reshim the input shaft a bit tighter.
 
Ok, the tailhousing thing makes sense, why i didn't even think of that before i have no idea.

I'll look at the cluster when i get home, already got the mainshaft out and apart, so should be easy to see. I know the input stamp ended in 51 though.
 
So i can only for sure tell 2 digits on the counter shaft, B6_ and im guessing the last digit is a 3, whoever stamped this thing did a piss-poor job of it. Pic attached.
20141219_163926.jpg


I triple checked the input, it for sure has 28 teeth. Kinda hard to get a picture of though.
 
so, im thinkin im gonna say eff this t5 crap that i cant find any info on, found a tko on cl, a 1st gen one, but he has the whole setup: trans/bell/aluminum ds, passing on the clutch he's got (spec....i hate specs) and hoping i can exchange the 10-spline mcleod i just got for a 26-spline version. going to go check it out tomorrow, wants 1700 for the whole thing, if its in as good of shape as the pics show, i think its a decent deal considering a new trans on its own is 2400.
 
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Thats all i saw on it, I've seen pics of the normal shafts that have a longer part # on them, but that's the only one on the one I have. I just picked up that tko Saturday anyway, but would be nice to know wtf this thing is so i can sell it and bs the next guy.
 
You may have a "Mutt T5". Just like the funny looking dog down the street with big paws and short little legs, it may have an unknown heritage...

Someone may have assembled a piece of this and a part of that and you are the recipient of their efforts...
 
i'll dig it out tomorrow and see whats what as far as that goes, kinda just bagged it up and shoved it in the corner while i worked on other stuff.

on another, totally unrelated, note: it would be nice if when you create a thread, it would automatically put an alert up when you log in like it does when someone quotes you, or even just clicks the gay little "like" button. i had to hit the "watch thread" button on my own progress thread just to get alerts on it.