Forced Induction Head Gasket Help Needed

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
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Nov 29, 1999
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a van down by the river
Welp guys....Finally tore off the passenger side header to replace what I thought was a blown header gasket. Exhaust gasket looked fine, but started cleaning up the surfaces to use some copper rtv in place of a new gasket, as recommended by many others who are boosted. While I was cleaning the surfacrs, I saw a small puddle form under the car. Upon investigating, I found this...

IMG_20130923_163440_zps6df31b36.jpg



sooooo, what head gaskets are recommended for a mildly boosted 333? And, is it necessary to replace both? Checked over the drvera side real good and all seams well. After all these years, believe it or not this is my first time down this road, so I will rely on your input.

Setup is, stock block 333, e brock performer rpm heads, 9.6:1 compression. What ya'll got for me??

@Rick 91GT @84Ttop
 
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My first question is why has the head gasket blown? When taking this apart I would have the deck surface checked to ensure it is straight. In an application such as yours I would typically use a Felpro 10112. Almost acts like a fuse if something were to go wrong in the tune up or if you leaned it out banging the rev limiter all the time (see this all the time, lol). the gasket blows and simple fix, no melted parts. On the other hand, if it were for me personally I would run an MLS gasket, just know that the awesome sealing power of these gaskets do not forgive your tuneup and are not rev limiter friendly. You will melt parts done instead of a simple failure. It really depends on what direction you are going with the car. Unfortunatly I've never seen shiny head gaskets ;). If this is mostly a driver then I wouldn't hesitate to just use a standard gasket. While I have done just one side I would recommend you do both. I mean another hours work for piece of mind would be worth it IMHO.
 
I could only guess that this happened while i was having issues with me maf wiring. I replaced the maf with the hpx slot unit and soldered in new wires, fixing the issue. Car has only been driven a few times. I noticed at bit of oil on top of the head bolt at the front of that bank a while before that, but didn't think much of it and forgot about it.
 
Having peace of mind of fresh headgaskets on both since your're right at it, would be something to consider for sure. You could at least inspect all your valves, pistons while you're at it.
.....AAAAAAAND since you got them off you might as well go get a valve job and refreshin' the heads up a bit :D
 
I prefer the 1011-1 even with the alum heads... it has a stainless steel fire ring and I've never experienced damage to the surface of head with them.

If your surfaces are extremely smooth on both block and heads a Felpro MLS is my choice but they will not blow so the fuse factor is gone.

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Sent a few weeks back...pm your email I'll recheck address.

The ebrock heads should need those bushings I think they are made for 1/2 bolts. If so and you don't have then you need the especially with boost.

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Definitely need those step washers if you don't already have them. Like I said before, the standard gaskets make a great fuse. A bad Maf is probably a contributing factor for the blown head gasket but without the step washers boost will do just that to the head gaskets, don't ask me how I know ;). As nice as the MLS gaskets are just imagine the sad pouty face you could have had with something melted down. I say standard gaskets again FTW.
 
I wish I had a picture of my sad pouty face after I saw this. This is what can happen when you have a failure and MLS gaskets....
image.jpg

And yes, this is mine personally from a while back....
 
Felpro 9333 head gaskets all the way. You need a perfectly flat head and deck surface for MLS gaskets- no pits, nicks, etc, as the MLS gaskets will not fill them like a conventional gasket. X 4 on the step washers and also get new head dowels.