Head Gasket Repair + Performance Goodies

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by GrandmasterK, Aug 23, 2011.

  1. I've always hit the JY for 32v lincolns. they have the 24lb injectors
  2. I looked up the F1Te-D5A, Bosch#: 0280150947 or Motorcraft#: CM-4721 model numbers and didn't find anything cheap online / eBay.

    It seems there are some aftermarket injectors, some used injectors, etc that work. How do I know what works? Are they all the same form factor and I just need to find 24lbs ones or is there more to it?

    Any specific year / model that they work from?
  3. Got all the bolts out of one of the cylinder heads (triple checked they were all out). Discovered two of them had actually fallen out from the headers, so that'll be good to fix too. And wow is the cylinder head stuck to the block. Had to call it a night, too tired from trying to pull it apart.
  4. Seems like a good enough deal I'll buy it. If you just sold me your own part, well played :)

  5. Lol, not mine... I'm going to get a set too though. My 24# 4 hole are clogged from sitting so long. I was looking at Witchhunter to have mine cleaned, but the ebay set is cheaper and they're pintle. May last a year, or ten. Not sure.
  6. My eBay rebuilt 24# units are great, but I checked out the feedback first and made sure they were better than a dip it and pack it place. I wish I could easily find the name. But his ads spell out exactly what all he does - almost to the point of being able to do it myself after reading the listing.
  7. I personally would just have them cleaned. A lot of guys myself included use Paradise Racing in Maryland for injector cleaning. I want to say the last set I sent him were only 15$ a piece to clean, sandblast and re paint.
  8. I've got one of two cylinder heads off. Trying to clean in where the pistons / lbock is, is it safe to use degreaser there or should I just wipe things down? Trying to get rid of the coolant-mixed oil from the head gasket leak plus one of the cylinders has some other gunk built up on-top of it.
  9. Get a good razor blade (lots of them actually). Brake clean helps degrease after all scraping is done and does not leave a film behind. Good luck this has been a long ass project for you. I would have pushed the car off a cliff while it was burning and I was dancing naked around a fire of the parts I removed by now... (please no one get visuals)
  10. T
    Too late on the visuals. I am scarred for life.
  11. ^^^^^ as stated above the Cleaning Surface is the delicate part, razor blade(s, flathead screwdriver/scraper. Don't rush it and get them CLEAN!!! Do it right so you dont have to come back :nice:
  12. Winter is over (I don't have a heated garage) so I'm back to working on this. I'm gonna try and finish before it's been a full three years :) I got the second cylinder head off so everything is now apart. My next step will be cleaning things up before putting everything back together.

    Razor blades, I've got those. Break cleaner good for cleaning the rest then? I'm planning to clean up the block, cylinders (as much as I can without actually removing them). Anyone have a suggestion for a good brand of cleaner to use?

    Is there anything I can do to move the cylinders up and down while my car is in this state? That way I could cleanup the chambers better. If not, I guess I'll just have to do this as best as I can. I'm hoping I can get this cleaned up this week and then start the long task of putting everything back together.
  13. Ratchet, socket, bolt in center of crank pulley, turn engine with ratchet. The piston tops do not need to be spotless. Wipe um, scrape um a little with a razor blade if you wish. Do not scratch the cylinders or spend 2 weeks scratching at the top of your pistons. Clean the engine deck surface with a razor blade very well, spray brake cleaner on it and wipe it off good and lets get this thing back together. Keep in mind, not to bust your chops but this can be started and finished in 1 day.
  14. Personally I wouldn't mess with the cylinder walls. The cylinder walls shouldn't be all that dirty anyways, maybe gouged up if they're in bad shape, but not dirty and worth cleaning. If they're rusty from sitting for so long, thats another issue. Maybe some 3M green scotchbrite pads. Try and keep to the cross-hatch pattern on walls if its still there.

    I had a bottle of Seafoam I never used. That and a toothbrush worked really well for cleaning the top of the pistons. Be sure and use a vacuum or whatever and get all the little chunks out that fall between the piston and cylinder wall or it can mess up your piston rings and cylinder walls.

    Be careful on the pistons with a razor blade. If any of the piston tops get scratched and it leaves a little burr, the burr is going to glow red hot in the course of operation of the engine and might cause detonation on that cylinder. The pistons are aluminum, they scratch easy.

    Otherwise listen to gearheadboy, and everyone else.
  15. Thanks for the tips on cleaning and moving the pistons. The walls don't seem bad so I'm not too worried. I'll get in there with a tooth brush best I can.

    True, but I also replaced the radiator too :)