Engine Head Gasket Swap... Questions Within

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by madspeed, Apr 21, 2014.

  1. Consensus says H ell Yes on the right stuff except gearbanger raining on the parade...

    Confucius says HURRY UP!!
  2. Gearbanger's down with the right stuff....it was a great movie.
    84Ttop likes this.
  3. I say NOOOOOOO on Right stuff or, ANYTHING Permatex. When I did the car show at Disney last labor day weekend, I was hanging out with Don Garlits, and Pete from Orlando Mustang and I started talking to one of Garlit's employees. I forgot how we got to talking about it but, we got to talking about silicone. He showed me what they use and gave me a tube to try. After I tried it on one car, I ordered like 5 more plus, the squeezing tool. This stuff is the ch!t!

    http://www.valco-cp.com/All-In-One Silicone.htm

    The right stuff always goes bad before you can ever use the whole can. That being said, try the stuff. If you don't like it, I will buy you a tube of the right stuff.
  4. Also, their thread locker beat the crap out of the Permatex stuff too.
  5. Hook a brother up
  6. IMO and from 20+ years of experience, blue RTV has no purpose. EVER. Right stuff in the gray or black higher end ones are the bomb. I love me some "Big Daddy" Don, but their stuff is not together very long. I wanna seal it up and never mess with it again. In all honesty I never use ANY red, orange, blue, etc RTV. The cheap black is poo as well. Use the more expensive "Right Stuff" or the one just below the most expensive. IMO ;)
  7. what he said^^^ It's Right stuff and copper seal rtv and thats it! There is something satisfying about prying an intake sealed with the right stuff off using a hammer and a 3 ft crow bar...
  8. I'm confident enough in the stuff that I would be willing to bet my car would still run and drive with out a single intake bolt!
  9. Challenge accepted. Please remove all your intake bolts and meet me at Taco Bell ;)
  10. on my way... can you make it for breakfast ;)
  11. I'm always willing to see how new products work, but honestly I've used Right Stuff without failure and I'm happy with it. No need to fix things that ain't broke. I've used blue rtv for thermostat gaskets and where water may be around in the past, but like Nick now I just use the Right Stuff instead. That and copper RTV are all the sealants really are needed imo. But hey, Baskin Robbins makes 31 flavors and all so to each is own.
  12. Just checked over the spec sheet for the engine from the original builder....

    Head Fastener Torque : 62 ft lbs with arp moly lube

    Uhm, why dafuq would they only go to 62#? I mean arent Ford specs 70# plus Ebrock specs are 70# for the lowers and 80# uppers.

    Soooo. upon install, do I do this according to Ebrock specs:
    stage one: 35 ft.-lbs.
    Stage two: 50 ft.-lbs.
    Stage three: 70 ft.-lbs.
    Stage four: Tighten only the
    long bolts an
    additional 10 ft.-lbs.

    Or, ARP specs:
    Following the manufacturers recommended torque sequence tighten the nuts in three equal steps to 80 ft lbs with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.

    #52 madspeed, Apr 24, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2014

  13. Tighten in stages according to E-brock. Follow ARP instructions for final torque value and use the lube that they recommend.
  14. Mad, alum heads are torqued lower than cast iron and studs are lower torque than bolts. ARP made two types of studs- straight and undercut shanked. Those get dfferent settings to . You probaly have the newer- undercut shanked. Confusing enough?

    You are only talking about 70 vs 80 on the shorter bolts in Ebrock vs the ARP instructions. Personally I have never had an issue torquing them all the same. I'd follow the ARP instructions- is this the kit you have?


    Jsut as important is to follow the criss cross pattern when torquing them and then do a final torque on all of them.
  15. Those are the studs I've got. They say tighten to 80, Should I tighten all to 80 or all to 70 then the uppers up to 80 using the criss cross pattern??
  16. Mad, I'd recommend you call ARP and ask them. You are going to get everyone's own opinion and it's your car. I know guys that have done it 70 lower 80 upper and others that do it 80 on all of them. Personally and this is just me... I follow the bolt manufacturer's recommendation.
    84Ttop likes this.
  17. It depends on the anti-sieze or lube you use on the studs as well.

    If you use engine oil you have to torque them a little higher. The lube ARP gives you is really good. If you use that I would just follow their specs.
  18. Could use the impact gun...that will get them tight lol. I second the notion of abiding by ARPs recommended torque setting
  19. Just kidding about the impact gun ;)