Head Swap Build Thread: And other Improvements

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Venom351R, Sep 9, 2010.

  1. It is not very thick at all. I had very little clay on the very edge of the dish of the piston and it barley made much of an impression in it
  2. Good call on the clay, great prep. Goes a long way as peace of mind the first time you romp on it. This thread has been going a long time, What's your time frame on all this stuff? Going to be running soon?
  3. I moved the guide plate around some bc doing the exhaust valve it was not lining up stright but some adjustment fixed that. I'm using trick flow 1.7 rockers

    I'm hoping to have it running in aug. Have to order the push rods from Ed and the long tubes and the mid pipe and a few other odds and ends. I did send Ed the same pictures that I have posted here just to get his finial thought on the PCV. I did get the passenger side studs out and the threads cleaned and reinstalled with some new thread sealer on them. I ran out of the stuff but I'll pick some more up after work and my next days off (weds/thrus) I'll get the heads bolted down hopefully for good. Once I get the push rods from Ed I'll be able to assemble the engine once again.
  4. Got the Passenger side head torqued down to spec today and used lots of ARP assembly lube.


    Also Ed sent me a set of 7.8 Pushrods to see how the length would look. The line got much thinner but did move to the outside of the valve some, but I have read that a thinner line is better then the actual placement being in the middle.


    Also called up George today and placed my order for 1 3/4 Accufab Long Tubes :)
  5. True but your quite a bit 2 long.
  6. I sent the pic to Ed as well so hopefully I hear something tomorrow
  7. Ed said it's all good to go :)
  8. Passenger side valve train is all installed. Did some looking around online of how to properly adjust the roller rockers so hopefully I did it correctly. I'm in the process of cleaning up the block surface of the drivers side and should be able to get the drivers side head torqued down today and I'll do the valve train on that side on monday and install the lower intake. I would do it all now but its my day off and I have some stuff I need to get done too


  9. well at the end of the day here is how it all stands. Both Cylinder heads are now on the car (happy dance). I ran out of day light and time to get any further but my next day off in monday and the plan is to install the valve train on the drivers side and install the lower intake. I need the gasket from the upper to the lower before I can bolt the upper on for good. The driver side head is such a PITA. Cant even get it on the block w/ out having to pull out 3 studs b/c of the damn brake booster being in the way and the bottom nut furthest back on the head is almost impossible to get to especially when using a 1/2 drive torque wrench but the damn thing clicked for me....twice


  10. Looking good! It should be all down hill from here. Can't wait to see that intake on there.
  11. Nice work Travis...beats paying someone to do it...:nice:

    When you head to Pete's to dyno it give me a shout.
  12. Ya I was thinking of what was left to do it the hard stuff is done. I'll have the lower intake on Monday.

    Andy I'll let you know when I'm heading to the dyno. Would be nice If you came along
  13. When I go to install the lower intake do you also place a bead of RVT around the coolent ports?
  14. I put a bead of RTV around the coolant port and two dabs in the middle flat area. Then lay the gasket in place and set the lower intake on. I put a few bolts in the intake to the block lightly (just to put some light even pressure on the gasket). Let it sit for a few hours or overnight. Remove the lower intake and make sure the gasket is still fitting correctly, if not repeat. Setup your front and rear with the RTV or rubber gasket (or combo of the two) and let setup. Then put a light coat around the other side of the gasket were the coolant ports are. Install the lower intake.

    putting the intake gasket on this way helps make sure its not being distorted, lines up, and does not get moved around. The RTV glues the gasket to the heads and since your not putting a torq load on it or heat cycling it you can move it around if when you pull the intake the gasket has moved. Then when you go to install the lower for good you wont have to worry about the gasket fitment when your in the ever so great awkward position of installing the lower intake.

    I have always used the 1250 "print-o-seal" fel-pro gasket and still use if anything a light coat of RTV on the "seal" part and a light bead on the non-"seal" side. I am sure with your big ol' ports a different gasket is being used
  15. I have a spare set but it was for the AFR heads. I'll have to call summit and see what they can do
  16. I'm pretty sure the port size on the gaskets are much smaller then the ones on these heads.
  17. What gasket did Ed port them to?


    What gasket does Ed recommend running with those heads?
  18. I'll find out I have to email him anyway
  19. EDIT:

    Thought I had an issue but I dont :)

    Contacted Ed about the gaskets and I just trimmed the ones I had now they fit fine. Have a few things to do but I'll get back home and install the lower intake. Hopefully I'll have some updated pics tonight.

    PS: I edited out the lower post it had to do with this edit as well as the problem that turned out to be a non problem