Head Swap Build Thread: And other Improvements

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Venom351R, Sep 9, 2010.

  1. I'll check with that later on to dark to do any work out there now.
  2. Nah, you got to shove your booger picking finger in there. The screw driver won't tell you if it's on the compression stroke or the exhuast stroke.

  3. From what I read when the air comes out you should then turn it to 0 on the timing mark . The first time it was a long ways to the 0 mark on the ballancer the second time it pushed air out it was only a short ways off from the 0 mark.
  4. We used a straw on each cylinder (they have a tool now). I could feel the piston coming up and as soon as there's pressure off the straw we stopped.
  5. I wanted to double check to make sure the #1 cyl was at TDC so I went out this morn pulled the plug and stuck a hex drive T handle down the hole and as soon as it got through the thickness of the head it came to a stop. I tried this also on cly #2 and it plunged all the way down to the base of the T handle so it seems as though Cly #1 is at TDC. I also took out all the plugs and rechecked the gap and made sure they were at .050
  6. The gaskets and intake stud kit came in yesterday. The fel pro 1262R gaskets fit perfectly. I'll install the gaskets and stud kit tonight and get the intake done on my day off on monday. The stud kit and gaskets is all I'll have time for after work tonight
  7. Made some decent progress this morning








    Attached Files:

  8. Thanks Kevin, here are a few w/ the flash off. I just need a better camera in general this one is getting old. My iphone 3 takes better pics then this thing does.



    Attached Files:

  9. Also if you look at the pics in one of the side shots you can see the IAC has been flipped on the bottom. I had to do this bc the harness would not plug in from the bottom there was not enough clearance from the valve covers. Is it ok to flip it like that?
  10. I fixed it, just had to connect the harness first then bolt it on
  11. Well been awhile since I have updated this and reason being there is nothing to update lol. The Long tubes are done from Accufab and I'll post pics when I do get them but I'm sorry to report that I will not have the Mustang running this year. In order to finish the car off w/ the parts I have left to buy is going to be about $900 plus the cost of Insurance, Inspection and registration and the best case is that I got it running in September ( sometime ) and that would give me very little time to actually drive the car and take it to the track. And that is if eveything goes perfect and it started right up and there were no issues or leaks. Point being I dont want to dump that kind of money into the car just for a push of only being able to use it for a few weeks before its up for the winter. Usually I dont have it out past the end of Oct. So as for now it will sit as it is, over the winter I will get the rest of the parts I need and once spring time rolls around I'll pick up where I have left off. So Dyno numbers on the new nasty heads will have to wait until next spring......sorry guys
  12. Finally got my headers from Accufab a few days ago. I tried to test fit them by putting them in from the top but thats a no go, looks like I'll have to install them from the bottom which is going to suck anyway. Not looking as though I'll be able to clear the steering shaft either so I'll have to undo that as well. I'll try and get them installed before Im done working on the car for the winter. I need to get the 02 sensor holes drilled out in the long tubes and I need to get the flanges put on them and get some gaskets and bolts and I should be good to go.



  13. Sweet....I'd sent em out and get them coated.... Mine look mint after 2 yrs.

    If you want, drive it down and we'll throw it up and have at it...:nice:
  14. What coating and where did you have it done, price??

    I know I don't want to leave them bare
  15. Ceramic coating inside and out and your looking at $200. Or at least thats what I charge to do them. Not sure what the prices in your area may be?
  16. Hey Kevin. How does Ceramic coating work vs that Jet hot coating?

  17. I used these guys... Photos
    Price was 200.00 for in/out plus 35.00 for shipping. Well worth the money as mine still look like the day I put em on.
    I couldn't find anyone even remotely close to do ceramic coating...most were down South....

  18. I wish there was someone in Maine/N.H/Mass that did ceramic coating b/c shipping is going to be $$$ out of New England b/c of the size of the box and the weight.

    How long have those coatings lasted so far b/c I have found tons of threads online of coatings pealing and pitting after a few thousand miles of use. Granted most were of BBK or Mac Headers that had the coating applied either in house or sourced out so who knows how good the coatings actually were and if they were coated inside as well as compared to a company who does it as speciality work
  19. They will last for years if done right. The problem is when you have a header that started as a chrome header, of course the chrome turns after the first use and people want to ceramic coat them. Even if you blast the chrome off, it may not get all the chrome. Then its coated in ceramic and the chrome left underneath will pop and peel cause the ceramic to do the same from underneath. I warranty mine for 10 years unless its been chromed and then- no warranty.

    The other problems come from shops that don't do the proper prep and cleaning prior to coating. If there is not a proper adhesion, it will pop off. Go with a coater that offers a warranty.