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Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Venom351R, Sep 9, 2010.
that could be it
So this pretty much comes down to a few things
1. Put one of the new heads on when I get them and check for PVC and hope for the best.
2. Take the engine out now to save time and put the proper pistons in?
You really won't know what the proper ones are till you get the heads anyway.
True, any point in sending that pic to trickflow to see what they say as far as how the piston is cut in relation to the trickflow valves would be as far as hitting any part of the piston that has not been cut
I would say no.
Your cam and rr's are going to make a difference in how it all fits together.
I think you need to stop and figure out what kind of piston that is first. That seriously doesn't look like a stock piston to me. I could be wrong, but that looks like a pretty serious dish piston to me. a 351 stock deck height engine should have a flat top piston for 9:1 compression. I might be wrong, but it warrants some investigation. If that's a dish piston, you're going to lose some serious compression. You really need to know the compression ratio before you start making head can cam decisions.
ah you know what I forget about yours being a 351. The pistons in my 351 do kinda look like that
I was comparing it to my 302 before
that looks exactly like what I have except for less circle groves, yours looks like a crop circle, mine doesnt.
I'm just going to go ahead w/ the current plans and when I get the heads I'll have the PVC checked and go from there if need be
I would also say those are stock 351 pistons they have that funky D shaped dish.
I PM'ed TMOSS about porting or not porting the Trickflows when I get them or porting my Victor 5.8. He said both flow enough air as they are to support an 11 second run. I'm still not sure if I'll have enough power to hit an 11 second run b/c of my compression. I know this is the best time more so then any to have the pistons replaced but having to pull the engine out and having some minor machine work done on the block and having new pistons put in is just not really what I want to do at this point. Plus I am trying to accomplish this 11 second slip on the fact that its the stock internals on the engine, stock crank, rods, pistons and stock displacement other then H/C/I being changed.
So Instead of porting I have decided that the money would be better off spent on a pair of Accufab mid length headers and an Anti Roll Bar from Team Z
i've been happy with my accufabs. but as to their ability to support alot of power, i cannot say with any supporting evidence either way. as you probably know, i drive 100% on the street and never go to the track. i have never even gone to a dyno. i also have a restrictive typhoon intake, so my power is going to be way down compared to people who set up their cars for the track. all that said, i cannot see any reason why they would rob power output; they are nice big pipes and there are no extraneous bends.
the other thing about them was that, with my setup, there is very little room between the k-member and the transmission on the passenger side, and the header on that side needed to be "adjusted" to fit. i do not fault accufab though, because there is so little room and my setup is so non-standard that it would have been amazing if it didn't hit something
I was reading about that fitment issue you had in the thread you posted about the ones you got. I also have an aftermarket K member. Like you said in the PM about needing a custom exhaust this might not happen anyway. Im not looking to take on anymore with this project then Im already committed to. Id be fine w/ jet hot coating my shorty's and calling it a day VS having to fab up a custom exhaust set up
The biggest thing weighing on my mind is the PVC issue if there is any or not. I can probably run as thick of a head gasket as possible as well to try and help that too
Dude I know how you feel. I was so worried about that on my truck. I was freaking out that something was gonna hit and I'd have to spend more money. Turns out all was fine and I got all upset over nothing. I'd say don't worry about it till the time comes and if it hits, like you said got from there. No sense working yourself up over something that's probably gonna be eating at you for months
Yeah Im not going to worry about it until the time comes. I have to many other things to work on and decide on before then. After painting the front of the block I realized how crappy the water pump looked so I went ahead and did that as well. I was going to take it off and have it powder coated as well but I decided this was good for now.
If it were my motor I'd get some flat top pistons for it. It'll make a huge difference in power. Most aftermarket pistons have more than adequate valve reliefs. In most cases, it's not an issue.
Accufabs are wonderful call up George and talk to him really nice guy.
i know this is without a doubt the best time to do the pistons but i jus dont know if i want to take on the addtional cost of doing so plus i have no way of getting the block out. ill get in touch with george and see what he says
if i were doing mine again, i would go with lower compression pistons for 2 reasons:
- you can run lower octane fuel (saving $$$)
- you can install a turbo later and have the best of both worlds
thats the other thing is i have to be comitted one way or the other. honestly id rather have a strong running NA engine then the issues that come with more HP and boost. The higher compression pistons are weighing on my mind i just have to get a final cost figured out. I know that if i decide to stay NA i wont be 100% happy unless im putting down the power i should be