Header Gasket Question? Fel-Pro 1415?

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by JDubz50, Mar 20, 2012.

  1. Quick question. I am noticing what I think is an exhaust leak coming from my passenger side exhaust header. It sounds almost like a ticking noise and little spurts of air. I dont really hear it at idle, only when I am driving so I am pretty sure it is not a valve tick or anything like that. I am pretty sure that the header gaskets are bad because when I bought the car I noticed some of the header bolts were loose (I was even missing one!) So now I was going to replace the gaskets with new ones but I didn't know what one I needed. I have BBK Shorty headers on the stock heads. I already have a new set of header bolts I ordered from BBK awhile ago. For the gasket, will the Fel-Pro 1415 gaskets work for my setup? It seems like a lot of people are using that one and having good luck with it.
  2. Fel pro is one of the best IMHO and I have used their gaskets numerous times, including the header gaskets.
  3. So the fel-pro 1415 will work for me?
  4. The 1415 is for ported heads. It's very expensive, and while it would work, for you it would be like lighting a $20 bill on fire. If you have stock heads get the factory replacement Felpro gasket that is like $8 at the Autoparts store. It is actually better seal wise than the 1415.

  5. Can you get me a part number? I'm not sure I trust the people that work at the autoparts store.
  6. I got a set of Percy's Exhaust gaskets....from Autzone. Forget the cost....but they're great. Have lasted for 0ver 6 yrs, and have been on and off a few times (reused). I think they're all metal, kinda like tinfoil....no fiber to blow out.
  7. Thank You! I will be picking those up then. Should I just replace all of them since it looks like it comes as a set?
  8. There are really only two gaskets in the set that your car uses. The donut and end flange gaskets are for other vehicles, so you can toss them. The end of the header seals to the midpipe without a gasket. Your car just uses the to large header to cylinder head flange gaskets which are identical for both sides of the engine. I would just change the side that leaks and hang the other one on the wall for when you need it.

  9. Kurt, I see you posted at 3AM. You still writing the 94-95 List? Get some sleep man.

    I have to agree here. I used the stock gaskets that came with my Long Tubes. I didn't have fancy header bolts either. I just used the cheap gaskets and thread locker on the header bolts. Mine never leak or have issues with bolts back out. I've seen people use fancy gaskets and Stage 8 bolts. Not that there is anything wrong with that. I'd rather put that money into something else.
  10. Thanks guys thats good to know. Can't wait to get started on Sunday. I'll be doing those and installing a new set of O2 sensors. Hopefully, my car will be running better after this weekend. I'll keep you all posted on how everything turned out. Thanks again for all your help.
  11. No, I haven't started on that yet. My parents were in Ft. Lauderdale and my wife and I flew down to see them. Unfortunately all they had to sleep in at this places they were staying at was a pull out bed. It was the worse Bear Trap I have ever tried to sleep in. I ended up staying up almost all night, and then sleeping for a few hours on couch cushions on the floor.

  12. im going to get new gaskets. Jegs part number is felpro 1415 and orielly's is ms 90000. They look a little different by the way so i'm wondering which one to go with. I wana put them on friday morn when im off so ordering from jegs today might get there in time and might not.

    female at store says when she puts in 1415 it takes her to the ms90000. Jegs is 19 and oriellys is 16
  13. The 1415 is for a ported head. The MS9000 is for a stock head. With an unported TF170, just get the MS9000. There is no advantage to getting the 1415.

  14. too late now, headers are on.

    the port holes on the 1415 looked small to me lol
  15. That's fine, it won't hurt anything. Sorry I didn't get back to this earlier, I got really busy.

  16. No prob and thanks as always for the help. As for the lower intake bolts should i use that ptfe permatex stuff i used on the head bolts that go in water as well for the lower's bolts?

    And I think the ms90000's shape was the same but there was a little difference i believe in it not being perfectly rectangular or squared as in wholely square or rectangular. I'm sure though it was square enough around the ports where the seal has to be to prevent leaks. I was just skeptical because of the different look though lol. As the Trick flow tech said the 1415 would be a better all around gasket maybe the design as far as quality or thickness is the same not sure. Both were same pricing as well as the lady at advance matched the 19 bucks I could get it from jegs for so that was great and better than the 31 dollar price I believe it was. The ms 90000 at Orielly's was 16.
  17. Yes, put PTFE on anything that goes into a water port.

  18. kurt what are your thoughts on me using a zip tie, the very tip as a feeler guage in measuring lifter preload. I took apart a lifter and well let me copy and paste : This guy I have been talking to for awhile told me about that method I just described. I am a noob to certain things in this regard of messing with the valvetrain so I'm asking all questions and trying to get the full understanding. I do understand what he said I just wanted to get a 2nd opinion also. He did say I should not have more than a .010-.015 amount of lifter preload and anything more unneccesary and hurtful and I would change the pushrods.

    feeler guage i have is too wide at 1/2 inch and instead of going to parts store 15 miles away i see the tip of zip tie is close to .018 so if that won't go under it i should be good right? Though I might still go head and get a feeler when i go to parts store and re check
  19. When you are preloading hydraulic lifters, you don't use a feeler gauge. You use a feeler gauge to set the lash on a solid lifter engine. The idea being that you leave a little gap between the rocker and the valve, so that when the valve stem expands and grows from heat, it fills in the gap.

    Setting the preload on a hydraulic lifter engine is easy. Turn the pushrod with your fingers while very slowly tightening the polylock on the rocker stud, when it becomes tight enough that pushrod no longer turns easily, give the polylock one more half turn with a wrench, then lock it down.