help 95 5.0 engine, do i need a different oil pan
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You Need To Get A Front Sump Oil Pan .different Dipstick.and Make Sure You Have The Timimg Cover Which Has Hole For The Dipstick In Front . If It Is Not There You Got To Drill It Out With A 3/8 Bit . It Will Have A Flat Spot On The Passenger Side Which Is A Round Area That Is Where The Dipstick Belongs On Early Model Cars.also You Will Need To Plug The Old Dipstick Hole With Something I Used A 3/8 Bolt And Silisocn--high Heat Copper Type.i Learned All Of This The Hard Way After Engine Was In Car . Well All But The Pan Part I Used The Milodon 8 Qt Front Sump Pan . Some May Hit Stabilizer Bar .im Assuming All Late Blocks Are This Way I Could Be Wrong.i Also Had Timing Pointer Issues But Thats Another Diff Story 
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.In addition to installing a front sump pan, also use a one piece pan gasket,the pan rail stiffeners, and the longer pan bolts from the rear sump pan. You'll get zero leaks this way and if you ever need to pull the pan, the gasket is reuseable and a cinch to reinstall ( compared to trying to install cork 3 piece gaskets, layin on your back) just remember to keep the plastic installation studs that come with the 1 piece gasket set.
TurboDoctor
Founding Member
D.Hearne said:
Yeah those damn plastic install studs are hard to live out. I bought a one piece pan gasket for my chevy 4x4 and just tossed the plastic studs away at the auto zone parking lot.Little did i know, a few hours, later still trying to wedge an oil pan between a skid plat and trans, while trying to hold the gasket in place almost led to a postal rage.
I learned their true value, when I bent the HD oilpump drive ( yes the heavy duty ones will bend too) 
:damnit: 
in my Ranger and had to drop the pan. I was just starting to reinstall the pan, and wondering how to keep the gasket in place, 
when I remembered that I kept those plastic studs ( I never throw anything away 
) 
in my Ranger and had to drop the pan. I was just starting to reinstall the pan, and wondering how to keep the gasket in place, when I remembered that I kept those plastic studs ( I never throw anything away ) When I bought my Ford crate motor it was set up to go in a Fox body car. I had to change everything mentioned above; oil pan, timing pointer, but the timing chain cover had a plug where the dip stick went. I also had to change the water pump due to the inline outlets on the radiator. Unless you have already changed you radiator I think it wasn't until 1970 when they went to staggered outlets.
Dark Knight
Founding Member
if it uses a 94-95 timing cover, you'll need an early one too.. if you're using a mechanical fuel pump..
you'll also need to change the oil pump pickup to one for a front sump...
you'll also need to change the oil pump pickup to one for a front sump...
I kinda knew that i had to get a new oil pan, but i think i was just hoping that i was wrong. Found a 8 qt oil pan for 80 bucks on ebay, since i'm at it, i decided to put in a high volume oil pump and arp harden shaft. I don't have the old engine any more to take parts off of, my buddy sold it. IT was his engine, i was just borrowing it. I've decided to go carb, so check out my setup and let me know if something is out of place. I've got the 95 gt motor, and things i am ordering; weiand stealth intake, msd 6a ignition and msd billet distributor, melling hi volume oil pump, arp oil pump shaft, 8qt oil pan, and a 625cfm road demon carb with electric choke and vacuum secondaries, and an electric fuel pump with regulator(don't which one yet).
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