Hey guys I need help and advice on how to fix this issue I'm having with my 1995 Ford Mustang gt 5.0 HO ? If I drive it at normal acceleration it works fine but once I try to floor it won't do anything , it feels like something is clogged or something it won't burn out or anything ! I know at the hp power that this engine has it wasn't meant to do much but I would at least expect for it to burnout or respond when I floor it !! Plz help !!! Thank you
Help!!! 95 Gt Unresponsive
- Thread starter Buda!
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Welcome to Stangnet
I moved your thread to the '79-95' talk section. A lot more traffic from knowledgeable members through here.
Is the check engine light on?
Even if it's not,have you checked for codes? That's where I would start
I moved your thread to the '79-95' talk section. A lot more traffic from knowledgeable members through here.
Is the check engine light on?
Even if it's not,have you checked for codes? That's where I would start
I Bleed Ford Blue
5 Year Member
It sounds like your cats may be clogged. When they are clogged they restrict exhaust flow and only allow the engine to get to a certain rpm. That point is where the exhaust flow exceeds the amount the cats can handle, usually around 3000-3500 rpm. Take your car for a drive and see if it chokes off about the same rpm, then try it again in neutral at home and if it still does it at the same rpm then you have clogged cats.
It would turn on while I was driving , and then it would go away and come back , it had some codes but we fixed those problems it just feels like something is clogged up or something cause I floor it and it won't do anything ! We checked the timing , pulled out the distributor and everything was good , the car just feels weak
Well I took it to a muffler shop and they put an coupe for 2 of the cats , but the other were left as is , so you think I should just eliminate the cats ?
5-Speed or Aod-E car?
Do you remember what the codes where for,and how you fixed them?
When you put the distributor back in,you verified the timing and the firing order?
It's automatic , and honestly I don't remember what the codes were but the check engine light has been turning on and off so I'll check it, the distributor was put right in place as well as the firing order the car runs , if you give it's easy pace it will steadily pick up but if you try to floor it right of it won't respond it sounds forced
Speedometer works? Car starts in Park and Neutral?
Have you tried manually shifting it while flooring it?
Have you tried manually shifting it while flooring it?
I Bleed Ford Blue
5 Year Member
yea the speedometer works , everything works car starts in park , I haven't tried in neutral and I've actually tried taking off in 1st then shifting to second at bout 3000 but it feels the same , I don't think it's a transmission problem but then again I heard that the 95 transmission isn't real reliable so I don't know , I actually took it with a mechanic that works strictly on transmissions and he's said it was perfectly fine
Before you spend money on upgrades ,I'd vote to fix the current issue(s) . If the converters are suspect,start there. If that fixes it. Then throw on some headers and other Gofast parts 
#1 don't start putting 'speed' parts on an ill operation engine, it makes fixing the problem hard to impossible, you don't need headers, x pipe and likely not new cats.
#2 check for codes
#3 check fuel pressure
Lets figure out the problem now and then add the go-fast stuff
#2 check for codes
#3 check fuel pressure
Lets figure out the problem now and then add the go-fast stuff
I would be checking on a few more things before changing parts around.
I wonder if your TPS is shot and/or out of range.
I had one go out just a few months back. Car would drive normal but once i floored it to WOT, it shorted out smh.
The way I troubleshot this was like in the video below, put DMM on it. Got it to .96-1.00 range. Then progressively moved the throttle leakage and the value should continually increase to WOT.
View: https://youtu.be/HUwr0g5Qn7s
I wonder if your TPS is shot and/or out of range.
I had one go out just a few months back. Car would drive normal but once i floored it to WOT, it shorted out smh.
The way I troubleshot this was like in the video below, put DMM on it. Got it to .96-1.00 range. Then progressively moved the throttle leakage and the value should continually increase to WOT.
View: https://youtu.be/HUwr0g5Qn7s
Sounds about normal?
Although this is not rocket science it is a little more technical than 'sounds about normal'.
Fuel pressure should be around 40 to 42 lbs at idle with the vacuum line disconnected, 34 lbs at idle with vacuum line hooked up.
I also vote for the tps testing too.
Although this is not rocket science it is a little more technical than 'sounds about normal'.
Fuel pressure should be around 40 to 42 lbs at idle with the vacuum line disconnected, 34 lbs at idle with vacuum line hooked up.
I also vote for the tps testing too.
There is a diagnostic procedure, why didn't you at least Google for it instead of just throwing stuff out there with no proof.
@Buda!
Do the diagnostic work before you waste time and money throwing parts at a problem.
Dump codes sticky
Look at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum where the sticky threads are posted. One of them is how to dump the computer codes. Codes may be present even if the CEL (Check Engine Light) isn’t on. You don’t need a code reader or scanner – all you need is a paper clip, or if your lady friend has a hair pin, that will do the job.
I highly suggest that you read it and follow the instructions to dump the codes. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/how-to-pull-codes-from-eec4.889006/
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