!!!help Coffee Colored Oil!!!

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by 95Vert383AOD, Sep 15, 2012.

  1. So i knew my coolant was going somewhere and my car was running just fine. I didn't have coolant in my oil before but now i do.

    Did a pressure test and i heard a hissing coming from around the thermostat area but no thermostat leak. I think Its the water crossover. Once it leaked but it shot outside the engine. This time i thing is spraying in the lifter valley. :(

    What can i do to fix this? Aside from tearing the motor down?? I Googled and someone said something about adding 1 qt trans fluid to fresh oil and running for 30 minutes and then draining and refilling.

    The crank also turns way too easy almost as if i have no plugs in it. I i realized this as i was installing my refreshed transmission and new converter. :( Seems if i didn't have bad luck i wouldn't have any at all. I installed the Transmission on a lift and it fought me tooth and nail...worse than when i normally do it on the ground. And now this....

    Any input for getting the Sludge out? should i be worried about anything?? I'm looking for a procedure for what to do when you find Coolant in the Oil.

    I run Royal Purple and a 7QT pan in a 351 based stroker.....I really don't want to change my oil 2 times if i can avoid it....If i do can i use convention to run the Trans fluid.

    Sorry just freaking out a bit here.

    Thanks in advance.
  2. Noone? Really?
  3. So....first things first....have you found/fixed the leak yet? If not, changing your oil is going to do nothing for you.
  4. I know this.

    I drained the oil and am going to rip the intake off. I found out while putting the transmission in and didn't have time to start on a second project. I'm just curious how people get rid of that nasty sludge inside?
  5. So i used the felpro 1250 intake gasket

    On coolant pressure test i heard hissing from the crossover port near cyl #1. Googling i realize this isn't an uncommon issue with the 1250's. they're pretty delicate paper intake gaskets. I also use an ARP intake stud kit but i guess running the motor a little hot can maybe cause this?
  6. you're talkin about sludge in the lifter galley right? If your on the budget plan, remove the intake and the spider that holds the dog bones on. Then use old rags to sop up the sludge.. You will probably need a tooth brush or something to help get the rags in behind the pushrods and around the lifters. Be careful not to push any of the sludge down into or around the lifter cup where the pushrods sit into the top of the lifters. Once you get it all wiped out, check to make sure the oil drain holes are free and clear, then reassemble with new gaskets. I'm not sure I would use any heavy duty cleaners/degreasers in there for they could remove or deform the protective coating surrounding the lifter/lifter bore surfaces and could damage the crank seals, and/or the cam bearings.

    It's hard to say for sure, but IMO if you have coolant in the oil, then you already know that it is a cracked intake/head gasket or something of the sort, and the only way to fix it is to remove the intake/heads, and replace the gaskets. I would remove the intake manifold and check it out. If there is no sludge in the lifter galley, just milky residue, just wipe it out, change the oil and monitor the oil pressure when you run it, because some of the milky residue can clog up the oil filter. If you have heavy sludge(like all over the galley, cam and everywhere like whipped cream or something) then I would go ahead and tear the engine down and have it hot tanked and cleaned before reassembly. I know you already know what's up with the motor, but as far as the easy fix to remove the sludge without getting into the motor, I'm not sure there is one.

    Did you rule out head gaskets?
    Does the car have steam coming out of the exhaust on a warm/hot day?
    I hope this helps some, and good luck. I hope it's not whipped cream in there!
  7. The sludge wasn't very thick. It urned my 10-30 to 20-50. I didn't see anything when looking threw the breather holes on the valve covers. Rockers looked clean and the motor ran fine. Ive had the intake gasket leak before about 4 years ago. But i lucked out and it sprayed outside the motor. I will definitely clean whatever i can without removing the oil pan. If i can confirm its an intake gasket leak i don't think ill bother pulling the heads.... My cash flow is kind of thin after refreshing a transmission and buying a new TQ converter.
  8. Run a can of seafoam in your new oil. Drive it around for a week, drain it and put fresh stuff in. That'll clean any antifreeze that may have made its way into your bottom end, out.
  9. +1, seafoam is great stuff...I've never ran it in my oil before though
  10. Sounds like an idea....Do you think its ok to run conventional oil for a week? I hate to spend Synthetic money for something that will come out in a week.
  11. People have been running conventional oil for years. It'll be fine. Just fill it up with whatever is on sale and done look back.

    Seafoam can be run in both you oil and fuel system FYI.
  12. Some people seem a bit cautious about tossing it in the oil.
  14. This is what I got using Fel Pro 1250 gaskets TWICE! 007 (3).JPG 007 (3).JPG
  15. Yup....those damn fiber prinoseal gaskets.....they're worthless. Not intended for long term use. Guys have had better success with a set of their 1250S-3 gaskets. They still use the printoseal , but are built around a steel core design, so they won't shift around and come apart on you like your old ones did. An even better alternative are the Victor Reinz "nitro seal" gaskets. They too utilize a steel core, with graphite facing. I've used them in the past and they work great. I've heard nothing but good things from anyone else who's used them either.

    Part numbers for them are below, depending on which what size water port you need for your heads.
    #95186SG large water port.
    #95187SG small water port.
  16. If you do not like Seafoam, ask the old counterman at NAPA. Chances are they have something like 10 Minute engine flush. Add it to the oil, idle ten minutes and drain. Old timers would add a quart of Kerosene and idle for the same purpose. Use regular oil for this flush then use your expensive stuff later.
  17. Old hot rodder formula. Add 4 liters ATF, 1 liter of Varsol. Drive around an hour, drain, good to go.
  18. WOW Looks like you would be losing HP on a few cyl. just from the gasket migrating. Why cant they make a gasket that looks like the modular ones? Hard plastic with raised rubber?

    Where can i buy these Victor Reinz Gaskets?
  19. My port Size is 2.10" x 1.30" I'm not sure what intake gasket will work. The 1262S-3 is 2.10 x 1.28 Pretty close. I think i was using a gasket too small. Also are Torque specs different with gaskets using a steel core?
  20. Torque specs are same for all intake gaskets. I torqued my lower intake manifold bolts the same with the 1250's and the steel core gaskets I finally replaced them with. Also Auto Zone can get Victor Reinz intake gaskets.