HELP!! Fixed the fuel leak but now won't start and have blinking theft light

[Blackone51]

Help!! I finally fixed the fuel leak with a set of rails from MMR and they are high quality and the fit is great. I took it out for a drive around the block and it just shut off and the THEFT light was blinking million miles an hour. It won't start now, it just keeps cranking but nothing. If I keep it on the THEFT light blinks 6 times then once and then 6 times. I also found a fuse that was blown in the underhood compartment (20A maxi in the #25 spot I think). I replaced it and it just keeps blowing out. Anyone know what that fuse is for, I did some searching and I think its PCM power but not positive. I also tried to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery but still doesn't start. I previouslly had problems with the PATS system but I bypassed it by running straight from the starter through a fuse to a push button start. That worked for 4 years if not longer but something else must be wrong now ( I'm thinking a short somewhere). One other thing, in the trunk on the driver's side there is a spot which has something missing with a connection just sitting in there. The spot which seems like something should be there says ANTI-THEFT system. I'm I missing some sort of module?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[wmburns]

For the 1996-1998 MY, PATS disables the starter. For the 1999-2004 MY, PATS disables the fuel system.

Sounds like you have already bypass the theft system (and have been doing it for some time). The current problem is NOT PATS related.

My reference does not have the fuses by number. Post a picture or give the name above the fuse. Undoubtly, the no-start condition is rooted in the blowing fuse.

Suggest reviewing all of the wiring changes recently done. Possible there is a ground fault in a sensor wire. Perhaps a wire pinched between the fuel rails. Esp since this problem did not begin until after repairs done.

Note, the theft light is blinking differently most likely because the PCM is not powering up. I suspect the code says "no communication with PCM'. So it doesn't matter in this case.

OBTW, if the PCM fuse is blowing, there is no power to the computer anyway. It will not do any good to attempt to reset by disconnecting the batttery.

 

[Blackone51]

For the 1996-1998 MY, PATS disables the starter. For the 1999-2004 MY, PATS disables the fuel system.

Sounds like you have already bypass the theft system (and have been doing it for some time). The current problem is NOT PATS related.

My reference does not have the fuses by number. Post a picture or give the name above the fuse. Undoubtly, the no-start condition is rooted in the blowing fuse.

Suggest reviewing all of the wiring changes recently done. Possible there is a ground fault in a sensor wire. Perhaps a wire pinched between the fuel rails. Esp since this problem did not begin until after repairs done.

Note, the theft light is blinking differently most likely because the PCM is not powering up. I suspect the code says "no communication with PCM'. So it doesn't matter in this case.

OBTW, if the PCM fuse is blowing, there is no power to the computer anyway. It will not do any good to attempt to reset by disconnecting the batttery.

Thanks for the info, yeah I was going to do that tomorrow(check over my work). The thing is I pinched a wire with the last rails from BBK, so I went out of my way to be aware of all wires on the MMR rails. I did see that on the inertia fuel cutoff in the trunk that you could see bare wire on one wires but it wasn't touching anything, could this be the problem? I did some searching on stangnet and comprat had this same problem on a 1996 mustang and it turned out to be a short on the O2 sensor, so was going to look at that next after I repair the bare wire on the shutoff.

 

[BLAK_SunshineGT]

Help!! I finally fixed the fuel leak with a set of rails from MMR and they are high quality and the fit is great. I took it out for a drive around the block and it just shut off and the THEFT light was blinking million miles an hour. It won't start now, it just keeps cranking but nothing. If I keep it on the THEFT light blinks 6 times then once and then 6 times. I also found a fuse that was blown in the underhood compartment (20A maxi in the #25 spot I think). I replaced it and it just keeps blowing out. Anyone know what that fuse is for, I did some searching and I think its PCM power but not positive. I also tried to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery but still doesn't start. I previouslly had problems with the PATS system but I bypassed it by running straight from the starter through a fuse to a push button start. That worked for 4 years if not longer but something else must be wrong now ( I'm thinking a short somewhere). One other thing, in the trunk on the driver's side there is a spot which has something missing with a connection just sitting in there. The spot which seems like something should be there says ANTI-THEFT system. I'm I missing some sort of module?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Having same problem with mine (previous posts) except I was using my GT as a dragster lol, then the theft light did same same thing & locked down, had to be towed home...if you find out whats goin on, lemme know man!! I sure would like to have my ride back. The MAXI 13 fuse is blown in mine, & I reset the inertia, and everthing else I can think of...not wanting to drop the tank to check wiring though

 

[Blackone51]

Well I found that one of the rear O2 sensors was basically broke on the actual sensor, would that shut the car down like this. I replaced one of the front sensors while I was down there and the rest are soaking with some WD40, we will see tomorrow if it works out. I'll keep you posted.

 

[Blackone51]

Well found out its the fuel pump fuse blowing. Going to start by looking at CCRM and maybe drop the tank and then throw a 255 MMR intank pump to complement my inline anderson pusher pump while I'm down there. Any other places I should look with a blown fuel pump fuse?

 

[soupnutz]

I see you have a 98. I have one also and found out the hard way that the manual has the pcm and fuel pump fuses swapped. I had already swapped the pump and still had the problem, while reading wires at the ccrm I had voltage on the fuel pump circuit with the fuse pulled, thought I had some serious wiring issues but after checking a few more things and reading wires with fuses in and out found out that those 2 fuses were swapped, unless my car is just a freak you might have the same issue and be troubleshooting the wrong thing, might want to verify that. Once i started working the right circuit I had it figured out and fixed the next day.

 

[Blackone51]

I see you have a 98. I have one also and found out the hard way that the manual has the pcm and fuel pump fuses swapped. I had already swapped the pump and still had the problem, while reading wires at the ccrm I had voltage on the fuel pump circuit with the fuse pulled, thought I had some serious wiring issues but after checking a few more things and reading wires with fuses in and out found out that those 2 fuses were swapped, unless my car is just a freak you might have the same issue and be troubleshooting the wrong thing, might want to verify that. Once i started working the right circuit I had it figured out and fixed the next day.

I found this from another member its couple threads down, so your saying the fuel pump and EEC fuses should be switched? This is the only diagram which looked like my power distribution box. Also it's weird I replaced the front O2 sensors and took out the rear O2 sensors all together (physically not in tune yet) and replaced the fuse that kept blowing, the car started up and kept running twice. I hooked up one rear O2 sensor and couldn't get the other hooked up (thread needs to be tapped) so I just left that one out and tried to start the car and the same fuse blows again. What do you guys think??? Thanks

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/654844-blowing-fuses-need-serious-help.html

 

[soupnutz]

I found this from another member its couple threads down, so your saying the fuel pump and EEC fuses should be switched? This is the only diagram which looked like my power distribution box. Also it's weird I replaced the front O2 sensors and took out the rear O2 sensors all together (physically not in tune yet) and replaced the fuse that kept blowing, the car started up and kept running twice. I hooked up one rear O2 sensor and couldn't get the other hooked up (thread needs to be tapped) so I just left that one out and tried to start the car and the same fuse blows again. What do you guys think??? Thanks

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/654844-blowing-fuses-need-serious-help.html

Yeah, the diagram in the thread is the same one that is in my manual, in which case the fuel pump and eec fuses are reversed. Have you checked the wiring around the o2's, or maybe the connector or the rear o2 you hooked up is bad and causing it to short out when connected.

I have access to the wiring diagrams, if you need any email me at [email protected] and I will email them to you.

 

[Blackone51]

I see you have a 98. I have one also and found out the hard way that the manual has the pcm and fuel pump fuses swapped. I had already swapped the pump and still had the problem, while reading wires at the ccrm I had voltage on the fuel pump circuit with the fuse pulled, thought I had some serious wiring issues but after checking a few more things and reading wires with fuses in and out found out that those 2 fuses were swapped, unless my car is just a freak you might have the same issue and be troubleshooting the wrong thing, might want to verify that. Once i started working the right circuit I had it figured out and fixed the next day.

Where was your issue located maybe I'll try there first? I sent the email. Thanks

 

[Blackone51]

OK just an update on the situation. I'm almost 100% positive I found the problem. I had the passenger side wheel off to get at the CCRM when I did some looking around under there. My MAF is in the fender due to the D1sc procharger set-up and I had to stretch the maf wires to reach down there. Well where the wires meet the car I found the wires were totally ripped into and are bare touching the actual car. It's got to be it!! I'm super excited cause I'll finally get to go to Anderson to get this thing tuned. I'll update with some numbers soon.

 

[COramprat]

Hope it works out. If you began to have problems after the fuel rail install I'd look there. The thread I had started goes through some steps to make sure you can rule out each component. My guess is you have a crimped wire related to the fuel rail. Maybe an injector wire or something.

 

[Blackone51]

Hope it works out. If you began to have problems after the fuel rail install I'd look there. The thread I had started goes through some steps to make sure you can rule out each component. My guess is you have a crimped wire related to the fuel rail. Maybe an injector wire or something.

Thanks, I fixed the MAF wire and she started right up!! I drove it a good 30 miles with no problems. I think I found the culprit, thanks to everyone for your posts and help.

 

[COramprat]

There ya go...it's generally something simple but can be a pain to track down.