Help me decide, SPEC Stage I or II?

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by SuperSync, Jan 4, 2004.

  1. Asked a few days ago but didn't get much help, still torn...

    My TOB has squealed like a pig for almost 2 years/8000 miles and my Centerforce clutch is chattering and not releasing well anymore, so I'm gonna get a SPEC!

    But, Stage I or Stage II? Does the difference in construction really merit the extra $100? The car will not make more than 325RWHP even when I do my H/C/I swap this year, and is mostly daily-driven now; so wouldn't a Stage I be enough? (car has seen no track time, but I'd like to run a few times this year)

    Any thoughts appreciated!


    edit: what about the flywheel situation, I'm sure it's original w/92K on it, should I just get it turned or stick a SPEC steel/aluminum unit in there?
  2. i cant really help you with the clutch thing but my friends say i drive my car like a grandmother so we must drive similar... :banana:

  3. Yeah, the golf cart tag I got pinned with 'cause they never see me lay down a black mark or shift hard, but I think it has a lot to do with the task of just shifting my car...that's why I wanna change the clutch/TOB and get the tranny looked at.

  4. I would go big just in case more mods are coming. Spec Stage II for sure. I have the Stage III and I like it. Be sure you break it in correctly or you will have problems. Spec claims about 400 easy miles.
  5. Cool, thanks for the advice...don't worry, I've gone 8000 easy miles on my car as it I suppose 400 more wouldn't hurt. :rlaugh:

    I like to always go a little better than OEM, but I wondered how much more I needed to go in this decision.

  6. I asked the same question over a year ago and didn't get much help either. I had a Centerforce that needed replacing. I was faced with the same decision. Are you going to resurface the flywheel or replace it? To replace it is about $100+-. If you are on a budget, that might make the choice for you. I went with SPEC II and have not regretted it. But I think with the II, a clutch quadrant and a fire wall adjuster is advisable which is more money... That being said, if $$ is not an issue, I would choose the II (just in case more horse power just happened to appear some time down the road!! :D ) Hope this helps.
  7. I ordered my Spec Stage 1 Should have it on tuesday
  8. I have the SPEC stage I complete with the billet steel flywheel, and I love it. SPEC cut me a deal for getting the package, came to just under $400 for everything. They were very adament with me that the only difference between stages I,II, and III is the disc itself, and that stage I is conservatively rated at 400HP. In the event that you build your engine to put out more than that, you can send the whole package back to SPEC and they will upgrade your disc to the stage you need for only the cost of the disc. At the same time they will check over the pressure plate and flywheel for wear and damage, make sure it is still up to spec (haha) and rebalance it all together at no additional charge. How can you beat that? Also, the billet steel flywheel is an awsome peice. You can get it with an adjustable counterbalance so you could still use it on a 351 based engine, and the friction surface is replaceable so you never have to have it re-ground you just bolt on a new surface and it's a brand new flywheel again. Their advise to me was to NOT get a higher stage clutch than I absolutely needed, and that driving a 300HP car with a stage II or III disc is actually worse than having the stage I which is all you need; even if you are going to be pumping up the power later your best off with the right one in the meantime. It's one instance where overkilling isn't the best idea. So, if you aren't planning on having more than 325HP ever, you definately shouldn't go higher than stage I unless you are going to be powershifting the daylights out of it and racing it hard a lot.
  9. I wouldn't waste your time with a SPEC I. Remember, the horsepower figures that they rate the clutches to, are measured at the flywheel, not the wheels. With a decent HCI combo, your car will be generating more than 325 FWHP. I would get the SPEC II. About the flywheel, I would buy an OE from Ford. Unless your going to get serious about racing your car, I don't see the point in getting an aluminum jobber on a street car. Some people are going to tell you to machine the flywheel, but I think it is a waste. You have to pull the trans, go take the flywheel somewhere, get it machined, bring it back and hook everything's a pain in the ass. Buy a new one. I think mine from Ford cost 50-some bucks.

  10. I have my Spec II waiting for install. I think its a great intermediate clutch. Ive heard great things about them. I got mine from Joe (not Vib) he has a Mustang Online Store and he gave me a great deal on it, and im sure he will do the same for you. Look at my sig for his site, and email him. Tell him I referred you.
  11. Guys, thanks for all your great advice. I think I'm gonna go the route of the Stage II (just in case I need more room to grow) and probably just get a OEM flywheel since I'll be in there (I get auto parts from Carquest at employee cost since I know someone who works there)...

    But I'm fairly certain I'm gonna take it to a shop or at least someone with a lift, cause I really don't feel like taking the tranny down in my garage (plus I've never done any transmission work).

    Can anyone tell me what the going rate on a clutch/flywheel job should be? Thanks again!

  12. EEK. You don't want to know the going rate!!!!!! I think some where around $400. If you want to spend the money, get the stage 2. Just don't go to stage 3. Stage 3 has a higher pressure plate, which can cause excess pressure on the crank. Not a good idea. Scott
  13. I got my SPEC Stage 1 and FR Flywheel installed for around $300 a few months ago.
  14. Whats wrong with King Cobra clutch
    There is one guy here in Erie who have 88 Mustang GT Vert with mods 12.9 on N/A 11.8 with blower + he have 100 shot of N2O and he have Cobra clutch
  15. You mean, besides the fact that this thread is about SPEC clutches? There's nothing wrong with them, they are just seriously over-rated and aren't anywhere near as good as SPEC for the money. More pedal effort, grab right off the floor, and the pressure plate get's pooped in no time if you drive them hard and then they don't fully disengage anymore. Some people swear by them, but I know too many people who had the same problems I did with them to ever consider using one again. I'm Star Performance now, all the way.
  16. No, SPEC's (UNDER-rated) horsepower ratings are on what gets to the pavement, not what's at the flywheel. Regardless, a stick car won't lose more than 15% through the drive train at the most- which would put a 325RWHP car still well under 400HP at the flywheel.
    And I say again, stage I, II, and III all use the exact same pressure plate, the only difference is the disc itself. I called SPEC today again to verify that I was right about all this stuff the first time I posted it, and had a different tech tell me the same thing. Additionally, they told me that the stage II is the clutch that you shouldn't waste your time on, since the price difference from I to II is $100, and the difference from II to III is only $30. If you are running so much horsepower that a stage I isn't enough, you may as well spend the extra $30 and get the stage III. Since stage I will hold over 400 at the rear wheels, stage III would never be an overkill in a car the stage I isn't strong enough for. Ya'll need to call SPEC up yourselves.