stang_gt_1994
Founding Member
stangman1 said:I did that to my car and it stiil pinged
And do you really think the spout would be the problem? NO
stangman1 said:I did that to my car and it stiil pinged
JimTMich said:did you use the cobra files as your base when you tweecer ed your car? or can't you do that. been thinking about getting a tweecer, heads, cam... but wanted to get this knocking thing figured out first.
stangman1 said:DUDE, I HAD THAT FIXED AND IT DID CAUSE THE PINGING AND IT WAS NOT JUST THE SPOUT IT WAS THE HARNESS TO, AND THE CAR WILL PING AND RUN LIKE **** WITH THAT THING ALL SCREWED UP. AND EVEN WORSE IF
YOU DRIVE IT IN 110 DEG WEATHER WITH THE AC ON.
stang_gt_1994 said:Try this out man. First off do you run a K&N filter, or any aftermarket filter that has oil on it to coat the hot wire on the MAF? If yes then the hot wire will become coated, thus causing the meter to send a signal to the PCM at idle that more air is flowing then it really is (causing a rich condition). But at cruising or load the meter will tell the PCM a false reading that less air is coming in but really it is more air, thus causing a lean condition. Lean means pinging. So you say you cleaned the MAF many times? So? Cleaning it is just a temp fix that doesent always work. To test the MAF you will need to do a snap voltage test. Get a DMM (digital multi-meter) and put it on the min. max volt scale(DC). Back probe the MAF at the output and ground pins and have the engine running and snap the throttle wide open and release. If the Max volts do not go past 3 volts then the MAF is bad. Simple as that.
stangman1 said:Hey I can say what I want so don,t come in and say what I can and
cant say ,I was just trying to help out so dont be an ******* and talk ****.
JimTMich said:cleaned the maf again by spraying carb cleaner down the hole of the maf. Then let it idle for a while while I found the shop manual then did the snap test. .75v idle little blip of the throttle 2.0 volts, big snap 3.1volts so it looks like my maf is functioning, it may still be off, but at least it's in the ballpark, is that what I am to assume? I put the timing back to 10* and at 55f out it pinged like crazy, so back to 7*....... sure felt good at 10* in first though, and second before the pinging hit.
stang_gt_1994 said:Good for atleast checking the MAF. So you only ping at WOT correct? If so you can get a AFPR for a temp fix to add some fuel at open loop. The increased FP will not have any affect when the car is at closed loop though. BTW do you still have your EGR? Also why are you running a 160* temp stat, just wondering? BTW you vacuum is good.
sn95grnstang said:Let me answer a couple of questions asked.
The AFPR as stated above is only going to be a bandage for the problem if it fixes it at all. All an AFPR does is regulates the min pressure that is seen at the fuel rail. You can adjust this to a rich condition by increasing the pressure. This “basically makes you injector “bigger” and added more fuel then what the ECU expects. More fuel will be seen by the O2 sensors during closed loop and after time the ECU will fix the “problem” for a CL operation which is most of the time. I’m not at all stating not to get an AFPR, they are good mods to set the min static pressure so that you know that you’ll have enough fuel for you combo, with an appropriate fuel pump of course.
The only way that this will help your problem is if your stock regulator is bad and running less then around 38 PSI. So check the pressure your at with the stock regulator.
The MAF of course will cause the opposite effect, which is well stated above.
The Temperature of the block IE the thermostat is another place to look which is also stated above.
To ask a stupid question, you are changing your timing with the spout connector off correct?
It seems that most have been focused on fuel/air what about spark. Even if you changed you wires plugs cap and rotor, you distro is still questionable. I have had the distro burn me a couple times with the same thing you facing.
Also not mentioned is the balancer, what does it look like, has it spun?
So, if you check your fuel pressure and it turns out around 38-40 PSI (vac off) spend the money that you were going to buy a AFPR with and by a distro, you may be surprised.
As for a Tweecer, this is the single best most I have done to my car, but you can easily bandage your problem with this. Get one after you fix your problem.
JimTMich said:fuel pressure 38psi with hose off
distributor.. just changed the pickup and the module under the air cleaner as well. bearing seemed fine.
Thanks for the answer on the AFPR
timing has been set with the spout pulled out.
what do I look for in the ballancer? That's about al that is left, except we haven't don't know if my maf is a little off. (got 3.1volts on a big snap test)
rapidsft said:I got this 95GT 118k miles, only way I could get the bastard to stop pinging was to reduce the timing down to 6degrees. Now it'll hardly ping even at blazing temps. California coded 95-95 ECC IV's are P.O.S's, thats the problem.
JJ95GTID said:I sorta did the same thing with my MAF. I cut out that support thing between the sample tube and inner wall of the MAF and removed that back plate. In theory it should see more air flow which would tell the ECM to richen the A/F mixture. I run @ 14* with 91 octane fuel. I get pinging under load (4k rpm) only when the outside temp gets above 90*F. I also have new ECT, IAT, 180* t-stat, and run 2 bottles of Water Wetter in the stock radiator.
I would check that stock harmonic balancer (dampner) to see if it slipped. A few people here said that at around 80K miles theirs went bad as did mine.