Help me wire my MSD please :D

Busted07

I need my gorilla to be about an inch longer.
Nov 15, 2005
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Well, i mounted my coil last night, and since i mounted my MSD 6AL right next to it, i decided to figure out how to wire it up. 4 beers later, i had 3 wires connected and a good buzz. So i decided to call it a night before i cut something id regret in the morning.

The car is Carb'd, Has the MSD Billet Distributor, The Blaster SS coil, and this is where im at so far....

I got the small orange wire and the small black wire hooked up to the coil per the instructions. I read where it said to ground the heavy black wire to the block, so i used the ground bolt on the timing cover. I have a question about this though.... The timing cover is aluminum...how good of a ground will that make?

Also, if that wont be a sufficient ground, can i cut and extend the ground wire to a different place on the block without fear of the ground wire being too long? Should i ground it to the frame first then to the block??

The white wire (per the instructions) said its a trigger wire. I had to re-read this part several times over because it got confusing. In one section of the manual, it states that its for like a magnetic pickup, and in another section, it talks about how you can use it for a tach.. i see that there is a tach port on the other side of the MSD, so can i use the white wire for the tach and leave the other one open, or am i reading this wrong?

The heavy red wire says it should be mounted to a 12v source, like the battery or the positive side of the starter solenoid. (My battery is in the hatch) If i remember correctly form pictures, it should be mounted on this side, correct???

View attachment 390107

I believe that the only other wire i have left would be the small red wire, which i believe is supposed to be hooked up to a key-on source. Anyone have any good ideas of where to wire that thing into?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
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For the black wire, I just grounded mine to the frame. You should be fine adding length to the wire if you want to run it to a better ground. For the large red wire it should be mounted to the solenoid stud that has 12V all of the time (the other stud). I think the white wire is for a crank pick up. I don't think it can be used for the tach.
 
From the MSD site: www.msdignition.com

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For the black wire, I just grounded mine to the frame. You should be fine adding length to the wire if you want to run it to a better ground. For the large red wire it should be mounted to the solenoid stud that has 12V all of the time (the other stud). I think the white wire is for a crank pick up. I don't think it can be used for the tach.

I read through the manual (i actually brought it to work) and from what im reading, i dont need to connect the white wire to anything... but according to the picture below, i need to connect it to the other coil connector wire. The picture below is the same one im looking at in the manual, and thats what is confusing me



The coil connector i have is kinda fubar.. and i planned on cutting it off so i can splice into the red/green wire, but according to the diagram, i need to hook the white wire up to the other side of the connector. If i dont have a need for a trigger, do i still need to hook the white wire to there?

and maybe im wrong, but on the side of the diagram, where it says the magnetic pickup is NOT USED, isnt that where i hook the distributor to the 6AL box?
 
You use either the magnetic pick-up OR the white wire, never both. Tie the white wire in with the orange wire for the distributor. You do have a 3 wire distributor right?


I believe its a 2 wire... it has the small square connector on the dizzy, which looks identical to the small square connector (and extension harness) thats coming out of the box.. this is the dizzy i got

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...908331+4294840126+4294924928+115&autoview=sku

So by this im guessing i dont use the white wire, and use the extension harness to go from the box to the dizzy...
 
Hmmm I just bought a distributor for a 1985 mustang which had 3 wires and I wired it up like the link I put up. Sorry if it didn't help. Good luck.


I think that im over-thinking the whole thing. I mean, common sense would tell me "hey theres a 2 wire connector coming off the dizzy, and theres a 2 wire connector coming off the MSD thats the same size, so they probably go together."

But once again, im probably just over-thinking it.
 
Doesn't hurt to ask your friends on stangnet. How much else do you have to do? What are you doing for an alternator?


I bought a powermaster 1 wire unit from a friend of mine. He bought it for a coupe he was going to build, but sold the rolling chassis and has parts left over to get rid of.

I gotta get a starter, a battery, mount the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel lines, change out the throttle cable, get a clutch cable and quadrant, mount the carb, get a fan spacer and then just reconnect the inside wiring harnesses and little misc. junk like that.

It doesnt sound like it should take me that long, but i work from 6:45am till 5:30-6:00pm, i work on the car for a little bit, then do the house chores and i still dont get to bed till after 11. and i gotta work this saturday from 7-12 :bang:
 
What kind of fuel pump and do you have a fuel pressure regulator? I'm utilizing the stock EFI fuel pump and lines and did a little trick with my holley fuel pressure regulator to descrease the stock 45 psi to 6 psi. :D

I was going to use the stock unit, but i had summit bucks i had to use, so i sprung for the malloy in tank sending unit. it just replaces the whole pump assembly. then i got a holley electric pump, a canister filter, and an fpr.

What kinda carb do you have? I got a holley 650dp, and when i go to hook up the FPR, im trying to decide wether to run a section of fuel line to each side of the carb, or to use that metal jobbie that connects to the front and rear of the carb so you only have to run 1 line to the carb from the FPR.

like this thing.... except mine doesnt have the gauge and filter on it

View attachment 390069

or should i just run 2 seperate lines from the FPR to each side of the carb?
 
Far, I edited my post, go back and look it now has a diagram I drew. And yeah I'd use the jobbie you posted lol.


Holy moly... well, if i ever decide i need to use the stock pump and stuff, i know who to call :nice:

Oh, and the other way i was talking about running the lines is like this dude has his... 1 line to the front, and 1 line to the rear of the carb.

16144370-M.jpg
 
You could do that. Like in my drawing I have a spot that's closed off where I could run that second line but I don't think my pressure would work like it did. For you though you could. I would just use the jobbie you posted. I don't have the gauge though it's just another thing that can leak only used it for testing purposes. I'm excited to see if you get it working so if you don't I can frankenstein something up lol.
 
You could do that. Like in my drawing I have a spot that's closed off where I could run that second line but I don't think my pressure would work like it did. For you though you could. I would just use the jobbie you posted. I don't have the gauge though it's just another thing that can leak only used it for testing purposes. I'm excited to see if you get it working so if you don't I can frankenstein something up lol.


Well, depending on how i feel after i go to work tomorrow...(bastards) im going to try to start fabbing it all up. I think im going to try and get my subframe connectors welded in so i can run the fuel line alongside that instead of clamping it to the floor.
 
Yeah I would say you'd feel pretty good getting the SFC's done and as much of the fuel system as you can. Would be a good days work. Are you just using the existing EFI harness? I tried that and I ended up just wiring up a whole new universal harness and got new switches(igniton, headlight, turn signal, dimmer, wiper) from painless. With my frugal shopping I made out with all for 300 bucks. :D Do you have some pics of your engine dropped in. IIRC that thing was sexy.
 
I kept the harness on the drivers side, but pulled the main EFI harness out. Im hoping i can still use the factory gauges (fuel level, and speedo mainly) The only pics i have are crappy cell phone pics when we put the motor in.. but here they are... (ill be back in a bit i gotta go drop a hyd. cylinder off for a customer.


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I took some pics with a good camera, i just havent downloaded them to my computer yet... ill try to do that this weekend. Ohh and my tax return came back, so i can get the black tfs valve covers i want :D