Help mounting 1970 mustang disc brakes on a 1969 ford mustang

[tredd1]

Hi

got a brake question for anyone out there. I am having some difficulty trying to find a Granada to do a disc brake swap but I did get a pair of 1970 spindles with the calipers. I cant find anyone that can verify whether these spindles wil fit on my 1969 control arms. 1970 seems to be its own year

Help

 

[68EFIvert]

The ball joints will fit but you will need different tie rods.

 

[rbohm]

the only difference between the 69 and the 70 spindles, is the diameter of the spindle itself where the bearings ride. other wise they interchange directly.

 

[tredd1]

Thankyou for the information

I've had them for a while and was afraid to put them on. So Ihave to get a set of 70' tie rods

 

[69gmachine]

'70 outer tie rod ends and '70 & up rotors. You can convert '69 rotors by installing the slightly larger inner and outer wheel bearings and races.

 

[68EFIvert]

If you want cool drilled and slotted rotors check out this site. http://r1concepts.com/

 

[Grabber70Mach]

I have just gone through this complete swap. Everyone is correct that the outer tierod ends have to be changed to the 70 ones as the taper is different and they are a little larger in diameter. The power booster is different the rod that sticks through the firewall on a 69 points down a 70 is straight. MP Brakes offers a nice power booster and pedal kit if you are looking to go power. The proportioning valve is different between the 69 and 70. If you want to go with a stock style porportioning valve a 69 will work but you will have to change your front lines, but a 70 is mounted differently and you will need to change out your complete lines. The rear line that runs down the trans tunnel will need to be slightly modified. The attachment point in the axle tunnel is roughly 2 to 3 inches to the right if you are looking at the front of the car which will require you to shorten the line to attach to the bracket. The fronts and master cylinder to proportioning valve will work fine though.

 

[tredd1]

Thanks for the great information guys. Cool so as long as I dont go power brakes right away, I can get away with just changing the tie rods.

 

[Grabber70Mach]

Thanks for the great information guys. Cool so as long as I dont go power brakes right away, I can get away with just changing the tie rods.

If you have a disc/drum setup now you are correct. If your current setup is a drum/drum setup you will have to change the proportioning valve as this applies the correct biased pressure to the front and rear brakes. A drum/drum and a disc/drum proportioning valve are different. Check this out for a further explaination.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/master-brake2.htm

 

[mfp4073]

I put 70 front disk brakes on my 67. Use the existing proportioning block, add an adjustable proportioning valve in the line that goes to the rears. Use the outer tie rod for the 70 spindles. Use a MC from a 74 maverick (double check this or have someone chime in), they made one from the factory that was manual front disk rear drum. That way you wont have to mess with the power disk brake stuff right away. you can later get an aftermarket brake booster (I think either flaming river or another company makes it for like $250 last time I checked). You will need to get some adapters to make your stock brake lines screw into the new MC and will need to add a section of tubing to go from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve.

I AM A HUGE PROPONENT OF USING AN ADJUSTABLE PROPORTIONING VALVE RATHER THAN FINDING ONE FROM A STOCK CAR.

the adjustable one will allow you to tune the braking front to rear pressure to your car specifically and your likes. Running narrower tires or smaller tires front to rear change this in ways that the unadjustable ones cannot ever take account for or address. Wilwood makes one for like $80 that you can dial in very easily.

Here is a cheat sheet for you:

 

[tredd1]

Where did you get the adjustable proportioning valve. ive never see one before

 

[mfp4073]

I believe both summit and jegs carry them.



http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_99824_-1


http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_127906_-1


http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_536521_-1


Looks like they have dropped in price from the last time I looked at them. The first jegs one would do everything you need for the cheapest price.

 

[chromedog]

the summit brand prop valve is quite a bit less money than the wilwood.... it is like 35.00 iirc. i used one on my 65, and it works just fine, just set it at the midway point (count total number of turns in, then back it out half of that) to get you started, and adjust from there.

 

[tredd1]

I most likely going to grab one of those proportionong valves thanks for the info.

I was given a proportioning valve from a 79 t-bird with a disc/drum setup but I am assuming that it wouldnt work

 

[mfp4073]

yeah, I went through the headache of trying to figure what would and wouldnt work. And then found the adjustable ones and it just seems the better way to do it in every way I can think.