My testing method incorporates part of your vehicle's wiring, which the resistance testing does not. You can do the resistance test but the ECT circuit can still be bad. If testing it plugged in, you atleast can see that the thermistor carries a load and unless the wiring from the ECT to the EEC is bad, it should be copacetic.
The chart in your link shows more graduations of the voltage values (earlier I only provided the two most useful ones to me).
If your ECT is bad, the engine will likely run rough - the computer adjusts fuel based on the engine temperature. Hissin's testing technique won't lead you wrong, helped me diagnose a bad ECT sensor. The sensor is screwed into the front of the metal coolant line that leads back to the heater core, pretty easy to get to.
Don't know much about diagnosing the transmission code, has the transmission been shifting different as of late? Is the fluid level low?
Water in the exhaust is relatively normal, it's just water in the air condensing in the hot exhaust pipes. Since you're running lean (code 172), the exhaust will be hotter than normal and you'll get a bit more water. It's normal, nothing to worry about.
Ok I did the Resistance test, but I was not able to get any voltage from the sensor only resistance.
This is how I tested it for Voltage and resistance.. With key on position and disconnected harness I hook up volt meter and was able to get resistance but no values for voltage the 2 pins on the sensor.
Do I get voltage from the sensor pins? how do I test voltage?
here are my results:
cold got 58.1 Kohms 0 volts
then a bit warmer 24.3 0 Volts
warmer 7.9 Kohms 0 Volts
Near "N" Normal 3.3 Kohms 0 volts
Trans runs great, level is fine and very clean.. That error code may be because I ran the code scanner at cold did not warm up car?
Take the EGR off and check the rubber diaphram, they crack alot of times then won't work period! I'm glad I live in a state that doesn't check for them.. mine will be coming off as soon as I score a fox TB and cable!
Also make sure you didnt remove or break the vac line to the EGR, and that the position sensor is plugged in. When a code comes out of nowhere after not having been there, a lot of the time it's something that was disco'd or broken during other work.
For a quick EGR valve test, you can simply let the car idle and disconnect the vac line to the EGR. Put a spare vac line on the EGR vacuum nipple and apply about 6" of vacuum to the line (I just use my mouth, but a Miti Vac works. Guys, insert your jokes here. Ha ha, I said insert too). You can see the diaphram move and the engine will start to stall. Be careful while working around a running engine and all that.
I had the same lean code on both the left and right banks when i first bought my car, finally narrowed it down to an extremly dirty maf, cleaned it and codes went away, with it also came about a 100HP increase on the seat-of-the-pants dyno