Help With Motor Buying.

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by 85rkyboby, Jun 19, 2014.

  1. Hey all,

    It's been about 7 months since the deer accident in my 85. Well finally got her all buttoned up and driving, low and behold I need a new motor. I was looking at Jasper, that's who my mechanic uses. I was looking at D&J Performance motors as well. Jasper is about $2925 for the long block, as well as water pump, timing cover, all the filters etc. That's a stock remanufactured motor. I have yet to ask what their warranty is for the whole motor, I know it's 6 months, 8,000 mile warranty for the short block. D&J performance has a 302 dynoed to 328hp @ 5000rpm and 337ft lbs of torque @ 4000rpm. I can give yall the details , if interested. It's $3095. They offer a 1 year warranty. Both companies offer free shipping and I haven't checked out the warranty coverage. Obviously they don't cover FI add ons. I just need some insight on this as it hit me quick. Anything to look out for would be a great help.

  2. $3000 is about $2500 more than I'd ever pay for a stock block 302
  3. That is only because you need the other $2500 to finish off your LS swap. Lol.
  4. Hey it's done! My wallet and I aren't on speaking terms though so I guess you got a point :(
  5. I figure it is my duty to pick on and tease you and Hoopty for your "misguided" endeavors. I love a good build, but damn, I draw the line on some things Lol.
    tannerc91gt likes this.
  6. I agree, but at least I'd know this will run good and for a long time. I have no idea about machine shops in the area, if any. I'm leaning towards the D&J Performance Motors. What can I really expect to get for $3,000? Suggestions...
  7. woody is the man
    A5literMan likes this.
  8. $3000 doesn't sound like it's going to buy a very good 328hp engine. Sounds like a DSS shortcut kind of a deal. Lots of cheap parts and wing it machining.

  9. I sent them a email today, hopefully I'll hear something tomorow. I hope $3,000 is enough for something good. I still have my old motor so I'm asssuming I can salvage my old water pump and some other parts. Maybe not needing those things will save me some coin.
  10. From what I've read about them is very good. Only a few bad things, but mostly due to improper break-in. They've been in business for 40 years, so I assumed they must do something right. Some people have been saying they're over-rated, I just figure even if it's a little less HP then posted. It'd still be better than my last motor.
    • 3.000" stroke nodular iron crank
    • 5.090" forged rods with ARP rod bolts
    • 9 to 1 compression hypereutectic pistons
    • Seasoned block that has been vatted, magnafluxed for cracks, thermal cleaned and steelabrated, bored, honed and plateau honed to fit new flat top oversized pistons
    • Deck head gasket surface on block to ensure a good long lasting seal
    • New CompCams Hydraulic flat tappet cam with .509"Int/512"Exh valve lift
    • Heads have 3-angle valve job with bowls blended & hump in exhaust port removed for better flow
    • New 1.940"Int/1.600"Exh swirl polished stainless valves with undercut stems to improve flow
    • Both heads have been resurfaced to ensure a good long lasting seal
    • New Hardened exhaust seats for use with leaded or unleaded fuel
    • New High performance 1.440" springs set up to match cam
    • New Valve seals
    • New Valve guides
    • New Screw-in rocker studs with guide plates
    • New 1.6 roller tip rocker arms with balls and nuts
    • New Oversize pistons and rings
    • New Hardened push rods for use with guide plates
    • New Heavy duty double row timing set
    • New Oil pump
    • New Brass expansion plugs
    • New Oversize main and rod bearings to fit reground 3.00" stroke crankshaft
    • New Edelbrock Performer RPM dual plane aluminum intake manifold
    • All parts are painted separately before assembly for that show quality look
    This engine comes completely assembled with oil pan, timing cover, harmonic balancer, Cobra valve covers, and Edelbrock Performer RPM dual plane aluminum intake manifold.

    I'm going to get forged pistons though.
  11. If you just want to run an NA engine, there is no need to run forged pistons. Cast pistons aren't as bad as people make them out to be.

    It looks like they are running stock heads. 1.94"/1.60" valves in a stock head doesn't sound right.

  12. I have a blower that will eventually go on the motor and maybe some nitrous, hopefully :nice:.

    I'm pretty sure they use procomp heads (I know, I know). The owner of D&J is good friends with, I think, the owners of procomp and scat. So they use a mixture of those parts. Someone that talked to him said he strips them and does some machining/smoothing to them. I was wondering if it would just be better to use some gt40's on it?
  13. I know it's cliche, but with the a $3000 budget I would hunt around for a decent used Explorer engine. Shove a cam in it, and buy some nice longtubes with the left over cash.

  14. Is that with no work done to it, ie. rebuild? My mother-in-law happened to just have their motor go out in the explorer. Would need a rebuild though. I hear machine shops in our area are pricey, ie. $600 for just boring?
  15. Good god I hope not
    85rkyboby likes this.
  16. You and me both. Hell if they aren't too pricey I could just resuse the stock non roller block I have now.
  17. $$$
  18. ^^^ TRUTH BROTHA! Someone tell me a good rebuild kit manufacturer and machine shop in JOJA?