Help With Motor Buying.

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  • 3.000" stroke nodular iron crank
  • 5.090" forged rods with ARP rod bolts
  • 9 to 1 compression hypereutectic pistons
  • Seasoned block that has been vatted, magnafluxed for cracks, thermal cleaned and steelabrated, bored, honed and plateau honed to fit new flat top oversized pistons
  • Deck head gasket surface on block to ensure a good long lasting seal
  • New CompCams Hydraulic flat tappet cam with .509"Int/512"Exh valve lift
  • Heads have 3-angle valve job with bowls blended & hump in exhaust port removed for better flow
  • New 1.940"Int/1.600"Exh swirl polished stainless valves with undercut stems to improve flow
  • Both heads have been resurfaced to ensure a good long lasting seal
  • New Hardened exhaust seats for use with leaded or unleaded fuel
  • New High performance 1.440" springs set up to match cam
  • New Valve seals
  • New Valve guides
  • New Screw-in rocker studs with guide plates
  • New 1.6 roller tip rocker arms with balls and nuts
  • New Oversize pistons and rings
  • New Hardened push rods for use with guide plates
  • New Heavy duty double row timing set
  • New Oil pump
  • New Brass expansion plugs
  • New Oversize main and rod bearings to fit reground 3.00" stroke crankshaft
  • New Edelbrock Performer RPM dual plane aluminum intake manifold
  • All parts are painted separately before assembly for that show quality look
This engine comes completely assembled with oil pan, timing cover, harmonic balancer, Cobra valve covers, and Edelbrock Performer RPM dual plane aluminum intake manifold.

I'm going to get forged pistons though.
Flat tappet cam?? Uh no no no! I wouldn't use this engine no matter what. Total crap
 
Is that with no work done to it, ie. rebuild? My mother-in-law happened to just have their motor go out in the explorer. Would need a rebuild though. I hear machine shops in our area are pricey, ie. $600 for just boring?

I would just find a low miles one that doesn't need a rebuild. A stock 302 usually doesn't have enough power to hurt itself, and they last a long time. I would rather have an old factory built engine than a fresh rebuild that wasn't done very well.

Machine work is typically very expensive. There is a good reason for that. Machines cost a fortune. It's not uncommon for a machine shop to have over half a million dollars in machining equipment. The prices reflect the cost of keeping that kind of equipment.

Kurt
 
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Explorerlong block. Swap in a roller cam and top it off with the carb intake of your choice. With the right cam/carb you should be close to 300hp.
 
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I would just find a low miles one that doesn't need a rebuild. A stock 302 usually doesn't have enough power to hurt itself, and they last a long time. I would rather have an old factory built engine than a fresh rebuild that wasn't done very well.

Machine work is typically very expensive. There is a good reason for that. Machines cost a fortune. It's not uncommon for a machine shop to have over half a million dollars in machining equipment. The prices reflect the cost of keeping that kind of equipment.

Kurt
Thanks Kurt, I totally agree with why the machine work is so expensive. We use some pretty expensive machines for the taper slitting, panel curving, roof flashing, and coil slitting we do at work.

I talked to the folks at fordstrokers and they said lead time is 5-6 months, I don't have that kind of time. This car was my daily until the deer incident. Trying to get her back on the road. I'll keep an eye (or two) out for an explorer motor, but as long as I've had this car I haven't seen too many gt40 motors pop up.

Thanks for everyone else's help as well, any have a suggestion on a cam? The explorer motor don't come with forged pistons do they?
 
Nothing wrong with a flat tappet except break in,less power,out dated designs,etc. It just tells me they skimped on the cam and makes me wonder what/where they also cut costs. Very questionable built engine IMO. As far as recommendations on cams...tfs1,comp cams also make some descent OTS grinds
 
Nothing wrong with a flat tappet except break in,less power,out dated designs,etc. It just tells me they skimped on the cam and makes me wonder what/where they also cut costs. Very questionable built engine IMO. As far as recommendations on cams...tfs1,comp cams also make some descent OTS grinds
Alright makes sense. My only problem with the explorer motor is no forged pistons. Is SCAT stuff still bad quality, in yalls opinion?
 
I've never dealt with them. I did talk to Goza and ProLine before. Both too pricey for me. I ship all my engine stuff down to a guy in Florida and ship it back when it's done.

Kurt
 
I've never dealt with them. I did talk to Goza and ProLine before. Both too pricey for me. I ship all my engine stuff down to a guy in Florida and ship it back when it's done.

Kurt
Funny you mentioned Goza, I was just referred to them by someone on the foxbody group on FB. I'm going to call them Monday. I was suggested to Barnett Machine in Atlanta by my mechanic. Then Barnett suggested using Advanced Auto Machine, since they stop doing work for the public a couple years ago. I spoke to a guy named Tony who said he can build me a 347 with SCAT internals. Cast crank and rods (I think). Forged Pistons. Roller cam, he prefered custom. Then he was stating ProComp heads, which I was against. He said he hasn't had any problems with Procomp Heads, since he orders them bare and assembles them with anouther companies valves, springs, stems, retainers, etc. I was thinking of spending the extra coin to get a set of Eddys or maybe TF, if I can swing it. Is there any truth to using ProComp heads with different internals, is it the cast of ProComps heads or more so the retainers being chinsey? Thanks, for your help I appreciate it.

P.S. My mother/father-in-law told me last night they'd be willing to give the motor out of the explorer. Only problem is its not in good condition, that's putting it gently ha-ha.
 
Goza was way too much money last time I spoke with him. Anyone who even suggests putting ProComp heads on a 347 is clueless. Big engine, big heads. I would pay extra and go with Goza.

Kurt
 
I've heard rumors that ProComp has improved their castings to flow better. Not sure if it is true or not. Putting their own hardware in makes no difference. The ProComp head is poor by design. It doesn't have a very good runner shape which leads to poor flow. Putting a stroker engine under a set of ProComp heads is like putting a $10,000 paint job on an 83' Chavette.

Kurt
 
I've heard rumors that ProComp has improved their castings to flow better. Not sure if it is true or not. Putting their own hardware in makes no difference. The ProComp head is poor by design. It doesn't have a very good runner shape which leads to poor flow. Putting a stroker engine under a set of ProComp heads is like putting a $10,000 paint job on an 83' Chavette.

Kurt
Alright, so it would be compareable to say gt-40 heads on a stroker. Are Eddybrocks about as cheap as heads get, while still maintaining some quality?
 
Edelbrock makes some really good heads. The Victor Jr. heads are outstanding. The E-street heads don't come packaged very well and need a lot of work to even make them usable. By the time you get it in the car and running, a stroker engine costs $8000-$10,000 to be built right and be worthwhile. If you don't intend to spend that kind of money just stick to a 302.

Kurt
 
Edelbrock makes some really good heads. The Victor Jr. heads are outstanding. The E-street heads don't come packaged very well and need a lot of work to even make them usable. By the time you get it in the car and running, a stroker engine costs $8000-$10,000 to be built right and be worthwhile. If you don't intend to spend that kind of money just stick to a 302.

Kurt
Alright, all great info I didn't know. I called Tony back at Advanced. He said after doing some #'s he can't do a 347 stroker long block for 3k (shocker, i know). What he suggested was go through the block bore, magna flux, etc. Stick to a 302, except use forged pistons. Low compression about 8:1-8.5:1, for my blower when I decide to put it on. Some Edelbrock heads. He wants to call a buddy of his to ask him about some cam. So still unsure about that. I'm thinking spend a little extra on a custom grind, would that be overkill for a low compression dd? I'm thinking to wait until the warranty expires to put my blower on. I know it'd be a dog without it on for the time being, but anything will be better than my last motor. All for a little over $3500. 12/12 Warranty, not with the blower on.