help with my running rich issue

[89blkgt]

Hey guys
I been trying to chase this problem down for alittle while now, i have a 408w in my 88gt efi victor manifold 36lb injector 80mm throtle body 85 pro m meter, car is a 1988 with no maf from factory, I did the conversion years ago with no problems in the past, just recently my car has had problems where the fuel pump apon turning the key to the on position will stay running and no longer prime and the car while running will run pig rich and will pump smoke out of the tail pipes, this has happend to me before and i have changed to a spare computer and it would solve the problem untill it randomly went again, but if thats so i keep getting bad computers then my car has ate about 3 of them in the last year of driving something is not right? please any sugestions would be great Tim

 

[jrichker]

Dumping The computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 19-May-2009 to update drawing for dumping the codes on 86-88 Mustangs with no check engine light.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[89blkgt]

I will be trying to dump the cel codes today when i get home but one thing that confuses me what codes could possibly come up when i have switched computers back and forth trying to figure this delima out. someone had mentioned a CCRM is this only on the 94 95 cars?any sugestions would be great thanks alot Tim.

 

[jrichker]

Only the 94-95 cars had a CCRM in them.

Computers very seldom fail. It is not worth while to swap them out on the odd chance there may be a problem inside the computer. Usually it is the sensors and wiring that cause problems.

Codes are the result of bad wiring, sensors not working or sensing out of range signals. If you switch computers and the wiring is bad, the sensor is defective or out of range, it will still set a code.