High Torque Mini Starter Question

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by AnthonyR23, Jun 18, 2009.

  1. Hey guys, so I just installed my new high torque mini starter, had to drop the x pipe to get at the original starter. So once I got it in, I swapped the original starter wire to the other side on the fenderwall solenoid, and ran another wire that was necessary for the new mini starter. I hope this is the right starter because before putting the mid pipe back up, I pulled the distributor cap off and the main wire that goes from the coil to the top center of the distributor cap just to check and see if the mini starter worked, I heard a noise, so it seems like it is being powered okay, just didn't feel like the little gear inside there met up right to the flywheel. If anyone has any ideas about what could be wrong that would be great cause I'm off to work, this is the Mini Starter I got:

    FORD OEM Style High Torque Mini Starter SB FORD

    This is a small block Ford high torque mini starter. It is light weight of only 9 lbs.

    Starter - Ford 12 Volt, with 10-Tooth Pinion

    100% New

    Used On:
    (1996-92) Ford Bronco 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L w/ AT
    (2002-92) Ford E Series 4.2L, 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L
    (1998-92) Ford F Series 4.2L, 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L
    (1991-90) Ford LTD Crown Victoria, Mercury Grand Marquis 5.0L
    (2003-94) Ford Mustang 3.8L
    (1995-92) Ford Mustang 5.0L
    (1997-90) Ford Thunderbird 3.8L, 5.0L
    (1992-90) Lincoln Mark VII 5.0L
    (1990) Lincoln Town Car 5.0L
    (1997-89) Mercury Cougar 3.8L, 5.0L

    Also retrofits to-
    (1991-82) Ford Mustangs 5.0L (302 CID) All
    (1979-68) Ford Mustangs 5.0L (302 CID) w/ AT
    (1973-69) Ford Mustangs 5.8L (351 CID) w/ AT

    This starter will fit older 4 in., 4-1/2 in. starters providing a 50% weight reduction and requiring less cranking amps than the older larger starters.
    Because the starter is a smaller size, it provides better header clearance and reduces the effects of 'hot start' by staying cooler.

  2. Starter solenoid wiring 92-93 Mustang or earlier Mustang with upgraded high torque mini starter.
  3. sounds like you have it wired up right. i just changed mine back to stock. i had the hardest time getting it to match right with the flywheel. the stock doesnt bind or grind like the mini did. if its grinding you need to pull it out to make sure youre not tearing up your flywheel. it could also break the gear on the starter. i had to have my gear replaced on mine once. gl.
  4. Well I am not sure what the grinding issues are but when I di dmy swap in my 82 Capri I also got a solenoid from a 93 Stang. there isnt any thing in it like the old solenoid used for the old clunker. What I found was there isnt enough load to fully engage and keep engaged to make the mini started work correctly. I am sure many will chime in and say it works in either case, I am just telling you what i found and how I corrected my grinding issues.
  5. Well I haven't heard any grinding, I heard almost a buzzing, like it sounds like it is getting power, maybe not engaging some how. Just to verify that I have this right, like in the diagram, the old wire that used to be on the opposite side of the fender wall solenoid gets switched to the constant side of the fender wall solenoid, now that goes to the large post on the starter, that does not have the larger wires the are visibly running into the starter itself, which is also the furthest away from the starter. There is a second post that is close to the starter that has wires running into the starter.

    Funny it's almost 2 in the morning and just got home from work and mid sentence that I am writing I think I know what I may have done wrong, and if this is the case this diagram could be modified slightly. On my mini starter it looks like there is two posts, now on the side there is a little connecter type thing that looks like it could be a ground that I did not connect, what I think I did wrong is hood up the old fenderwall solenoid (old starter side) to the post with the wires that run into the starter itself, but what I think I should have done is run the old fenderwall starter side to the little side connecter thing that I thought initially was a ground.

    To confirm that this correction would be right, does the post on the fenderwall solenoid opposite to the constant power run to the post on the mini starter solenoid that has wires running into the starter, if not then I should make the change.

    I hope I'm right.... It's just on this diagram when I first looked at the two bolts that the wires go to I assumed that that was the two bolts on my mini starter solenoid, when in fact now looking closer it looks like three bolts, and if that orange strip is representing the wires running to the actual starter that is def. where I went wrong!! Thanks everyone for your constant help!!! So much appreciated!!!