holley tuning issue at cruise

would I need to drill the LSABs, or is there anoter adjustment I can make without doing that kind of modifying? what about the idle feed restrictors?

And thanks guys so much for helping me get this damn car running right again!
 
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The IFR's is what allows the fuel to the screws. If you had the screws out really far and not enough fuel, then you do the IFR's.

If you are completely in the idle circuit in a light/minimal load, have your timing where you want it, that's what you have to do.
 
carb is pulled apart and waiting on some attention tomorrow.

I read a little bit and also because I don't want to drill out anything just yet, I'm taking the metering block out and adding a little wire to the idle feed restrictors. I think I can back out the idle mixture screws and still have a good idle, and get the lean cruise. Right now the way it sits the mixture screws are at 3/4 turn off the seat. If I add wire I think I still have enough adjustment to get the proper idle mixture, and still get the right cruise AFR without drilling :)
 
Yep, that was me, and you know it. Or you remembered exactly how I miss spelled, but don't remember the lesson ? Still bad with the spelling and no checking. But you still didn't know what I was talking about then when you called me something to the effects of a down south coon ass? Something like that right ? But I was explaining it to someone else, you questioned it. Hell, I know I even called it a PVCR before screwing up the spelling of what it was. If you had actually knew was I was talking about at the time, you'd have realized is was nothing more than piss poor spelling.

This was what you said after I mentioned the PVCR's.



Then I said this



Now here, "getting it right the first time", I was referring to so drilling out the PVCR's, but the chip on your shoulder rendered this comment



But at least you've been reading up. :nice: I'd hate to have 30 years of Holley experience and not know what it is.

Then there was some more spelling corrections in defense to a weak holley based knowledge on your part.

Then came this one



So now you call me the dick with an attitude, when you've been doing all the name calling ? Have a good one. :nice:

Mrmustangman, I'd even try 18-24 inital. Mine was a monster at 20 compared to 16 in in throttle response and everything in between. You'll need to limit the total timing mechanically though. If you add 10 more at cruise, it will lean out, so do wait. But you may be on the right track with the LASB's,........or Holleys don't need to be modified, but haven't figured that out yet. They are work perfect outta the box. :nice:

Sorry for the edit. Was at a concert last night. tired as hell and can't hear, was afraid I would be made fun of again if I miss spelled.

OK, smart ass, then why do you keep repeating it as a PVCR ? Power Valve Channel Restrictor ? Or is it Power Valve Restrictor Channel ? Bottom line with that was it's damn near never neccesary to even have to drill it out. Only someone with a tendency for total perfection and free access to a dyno and an A/F meter, would even think about doing this mod. For the 99.999% of the rest of us, it's a useless mod. The gain made with doing it would never be felt in the seat of the pants meter.
 
OK, smart ass, then why do you keep repeating it as a PVCR ? Power Valve Channel Restrictor ? Or is it Power Valve Restrictor Channel ? Bottom line with that was it's damn near never neccesary to even have to drill it out. Only someone with a tendency for total perfection and free access to a dyno and an A/F meter, would even think about doing this mod. For the 99.999% of the rest of us, it's a useless mod. The gain made with doing it would never be felt in the seat of the pants meter.
Your still missing the point moron. I said I miss spelled it. I didn't change the quote when I said it to save face. I pulled them directly from the thread. Point was you didn't know what it was. And you still don't grasp it's intended point. It won't make the car faster. 5 years later you still don't understand that. It leans out the cruise jetting while keeping the WOT AFR the same. No it's not required. Never said it was. Just pointed out you can have your cake and eat it, too. Especially seeing has that's what the old thread was about at the time you interrupted. I was doing this long before I had access to a dyno. God damn grumpy old men. Next time someone is talking about something you don't understand, just sit there and try to learn something, rather than tell someone it's impossible because you've never heard of it. In short you ended up resorting to correcting spelling and name calling again because you still just don't get it. Haha, southern hospitality.
 
carb is pulled apart and waiting on some attention tomorrow.

I read a little bit and also because I don't want to drill out anything just yet, I'm taking the metering block out and adding a little wire to the idle feed restrictors. I think I can back out the idle mixture screws and still have a good idle, and get the lean cruise. Right now the way it sits the mixture screws are at 3/4 turn off the seat. If I add wire I think I still have enough adjustment to get the proper idle mixture, and still get the right cruise AFR without drilling :)

I would try closing the primaries a little first. It is probably getting fuel from the idle and transfer circuit the way the primaries are set in the above pic. The amount of transfer slot showing should look square. You can adjust idle with the secondaries w/o removing the carb. I use a tiny screw driver bit and box end wrench to turn it. It is a pain, but can be done. I set the primaries on the bench and NEVER use the idle screw again.
 
added a .010 wire to each idle feed restrictor (at .052") and put the carb back on. The idle mixture screws needed to be backed out a little and then it ran, but I couldn't tell ya if it made any difference! AFR was still 13:1 at cruise, which is what it was before. I will try a heavier wire tomorrow

My calculations were messed up. I ran the numbers again and found out I should need a .020 to get the mixture right
ps i set the primary throttle blades again
 
Your still missing the point moron. I said I miss spelled it. I didn't change the quote when I said it to save face. I pulled them directly from the thread. Point was you didn't know what it was. And you still don't grasp it's intended point. It won't make the car faster. 5 years later you still don't understand that. It leans out the cruise jetting while keeping the WOT AFR the same. No it's not required. Never said it was. Just pointed out you can have your cake and eat it, too. Especially seeing has that's what the old thread was about at the time you interrupted. I was doing this long before I had access to a dyno. God damn grumpy old men. Next time someone is talking about something you don't understand, just sit there and try to learn something, rather than tell someone it's impossible because you've never heard of it. In short you ended up resorting to correcting spelling and name calling again because you still just don't get it. Haha, southern hospitality.

:rlaugh: Missing the point? Grumpy old men? You started this ball rolling by being offended by my comment that you missed the point to start with, by implying he had a carb problem. And congratulations on discovering that drilling out the PVCR you could gain 5 hp in the midrange. I know I'm impressed. As for "southern hospitality" some of that could be learned by Californians. You're not the first californian I've run across with an attitude of superiority, must be the water out there. You've succeded in ruining that state, now you're working on the rest of the country. :nice:
 
:rlaugh: Missing the point? Grumpy old men? You started this ball rolling by being offended by my comment that you missed the point to start with, by implying he had a carb problem. And congratulations on discovering that drilling out the PVCR you could gain 5 hp in the midrange. I know I'm impressed. As for "southern hospitality" some of that could be learned by Californians. You're not the first californian I've run across with an attitude of superiority, must be the water out there. You've succeded in ruining that state, now you're working on the rest of the country. :nice:
Go back and try to read it again. My suggestion was merely to see if his circuits weren't overlapping like they should. I also explained why it would fix it if it were the problem.

AND YOU STILL DON'T get it. I didn't discover the PVCR's. And you still don't get that it doesn't add HP ? Really, do you really not understand that yet ? Really ?
Hard not to feel superiority over some who thinks a B cam pulls to 7500. Or maybe it just seems everyone else has a superiority problem because you.... :shrug:

Maybe I'll just hotlink the other thread, and we'll see who really had the superiority issue first. :thinking:
 
If you go back, again and look, you quoted me again and tried to play dumb about it. By letting it lye, I was doing to a favor. Not for you to turn around and stir it back up. You just let me know if you want that link somewhere "other than here" to refresh your memory.
 
:dead:

:dead:



:dead:




my pecker is still bigger than both urs.....





seriously...just let it be, i know that if your still holding a grudge from a year ago, its hard to do, but LET GO. Youll be able to argue all day long on this subject and i don care if your god-dang jack rousch....



my god ...this gets any worse an we're gonna get it moved to the fight club...and me and D both know what happens there... :crazy:
 
ANYWAY:

put the .023 wire in the IFR, way too much wire in it. Had the idle screws backed out 4 turns and it would only idle on the pump shot lol. Cruise was a lean-out. Time to try a smaller wire but at least I know where too much is.

PS couldn't drive it to the hot rod power tour stop in racine, DANG
 
Here is some good info on tuning. Leaning out the IFR's - Chevelle Tech Page 5 post 63 has some good pics of making your carb very adjustable. A tap and drill bit is about $5 at Lowes. I bought 6-32, 8-32 and 10-32. You can buy brass set screws for about $10 per 100 at McMaster Carr. Numbered drill bits are the most costly part. I got mine at a hobby shop that did mostly RC cars. I have not started my E85 attempt yet, but I am getting everything together and reading all I can. Have you done any searching on the innovate site? There are some sharp carb guys there and they don't mind sharing.

Do you know how big the IFR is? A .009 wire in a .030 hole is about a 8.5% change. I always calculate the area of the restriction and what I want to try to see if the change is reasonable. Adding a .023 wire reduce fuel by 60% which should make it very lean. The .012 should reduce fuel by 15.5%.

I really think you have the primaries too far open now according to the pic. You should not see that much t slot. It should look square. The pic shows it to be way longer than wide.
 
brian, since that photo I reset the primaries to be square.

thanks for the link. I don't know the exact size of the IFR because the orifice starts out big and necks down. I don't have a small enough drill bit to get in where it necks down, but checking with wire says it may be in the .030 range.
 
I started out figuring are of restrictions on a calculator. Then googled circle area calculator and used an online calculator. Type in daimeter and hit enter. Easy for even the geometrically challenged, like me.