Progress Thread Hoopty v2.0 - Back in action!

Put the can in warm water to raise its temp a bit and that should get it to flow a little more into the system.

You probably do have a leak. My guess is some of the oil is now sealing your leak but it will leak again.

Lots of ac shops will recover the 134 for free since they can sell it to a recycler. Evac it, fix the line, pull a nice vacuum and recharge.
Oh, it definitely leaks. You can watch it bubble. I was just shocked it was still holding any pressure, much less enough to operate the system
 
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We think we have figured out the oil consumption issue. On aftermarket heads, a lot of times the rocker studs are drilled through the intake ports. You have to seal them or they will draw in oil. I say we because another local guy was having the same issue with his AFRs and he took his apart this morning and that seems to be it - the stud threads were soaked in oil. Ill try and get to mine this week.
 
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We think we have figured out the oil consumption issue. On aftermarket heads, a lot of times the rocker studs are drilled through the intake ports. You have to seal them or they will draw in oil. I say we because another local guy was having the same issue with his AFRs and he took his apart this morning and that seems to be it - the stud threads were soaked in oil. Ill try and get to mine this week.
Yep,made sure to do this to mine as well.
 
We think we have figured out the oil consumption issue. On aftermarket heads, a lot of times the rocker studs are drilled through the intake ports. You have to seal them or they will draw in oil. I say we because another local guy was having the same issue with his AFRs and he took his apart this morning and that seems to be it - the stud threads were soaked in oil. Ill try and get to mine this week.
How bad was the oil consumption? was it filling up your air intake to manifold with oil? fouling out a plug or too?
 
How bad was the oil consumption? was it filling up your air intake to manifold with oil? fouling out a plug or too?
Wasn't going in the intake. Its being drawn in through the stud boss which is drilled into the intake runner in the head. And yeah, all 8 plugs are trash. My car is using a quart every couple hundred miles, if I were to guess. Another local guy is having way worse consumption but pulled his studs yesterday and sealed them back up. Not sure if he's driven it yet to see if that cured it but Im sure it will.
 
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Whoa what a weekend! Friday, I got into the motor. As expected, the intake studs were all oily, so I sealed them and reinstalled. Checked all the lifters lash and went for a cruise, everything was cool.
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So, Saturday I loaded my daughter in the car and went south to Galveston to deliver a wood project and then to a couple other places to meet friends and family. It was about 200 miles of driving and the car did great. Most notable was the oil level staying exactly the same as when I left!

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...And then Sunday morning came. I started the car to go into town for some groceries. I got to the front of my neighborhood and smoke was billowing out from under the car. Power steering fluid had puked from the pump and soaked into the wrap on the crossover pipe. Guess it's time to pull the pump and fix it.


There's a large fox-only car show this weekend near Dallas that I'm going to go to, leaks or no leaks. Ill post photos once it happens. Also planning on road tripping the car to Alabama to go see my wifes family. I think it's ready, assuming the steering behaves.
 
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On to the power steering debacle.... PS - every fox Ive ever had with PS has leaked, in some form or fashion. I hate Ford PS systems.

Anyway, at lunch, I went out and de-greased the PS pump and cleaned it all up so it's dry and not oily. 3 hours in, and it's still dry and not oily. LOL.
I'm going to set my phone up under the car later with a light and record start up and see if it leaks then.
 
So I started the car yesterday afternoon and the return hose was leaking out the top of the hose. So, I added another clamp. I was later told to rotate it 180° and will do so eventually.
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I still left the towel under it as an experiment to see if it was still leaking and low and behold, this morning there were drips on the towel. I took a picture from the underside:

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Im at a loss other than replacing the pump. it appears to be leaking from the largest of the hex nuts where it meets the body of the pump. The exposed O-ring is still dry.

It's going to have to stay like this for a while. My wife's 2014 explorer needs a water pump. For those of you who dont know, the water pump is inside the motor and run off the timing chain. Dealership wanted 3-5k to replace and I said no thanks, Ill figure it out myself. So, that's going to be my next mountain to climb...
 
I believe there’s an O-ring seal inside there. Here’s the fitting off a 90+ pump. The entire thing can be removed.

I have my original pump handy. I’ve been meaning to pull the fitting off to inspect something so if I get a chance I can confirm what makes the seal in there.

8DB3E811-2A69-4A83-9251-444346F1CFB7.jpeg
 
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I believe there’s an O-ring seal inside there. Here’s the fitting off a 90+ pump. The entire thing can be removed.

I have my original pump handy. I’ve been meaning to pull the fitting off to inspect something so if I get a chance I can confirm what makes the seal in there.

8DB3E811-2A69-4A83-9251-444346F1CFB7.jpeg
So this is a picture of the larger nut removed from the body of the pump? I have a O-ring set and could replace it pretty easily.
EDIT* I just went and put a wrench on it. It wasnt loose, but it wasnt tight either. I cleaned the bottom of the pump and will see if theres fluid later this afternoon.
 
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It's going to have to stay like this for a while. My wife's 2014 explorer needs a water pump. For those of you who dont know, the water pump is inside the motor and run off the timing chain. Dealership wanted 3-5k to replace and I said no thanks, Ill figure it out myself. So, that's going to be my next mountain to climb...
Pay attention to the chains/cam timing. We have had more than one vehicle towed back to the shop with a ruined engine because the customer wanted to do the job themselves to "save money". Turns out they saved nothing and ended up with an even bigger expense.
Investigate before hand what special tools are required to do this job. You will need them.
 
If the pump on my '14 Taurus ever :poo:s the bed, i'm just gonna part the thing out and call it a day. I've looked into doing the pump/chains and just honestly don't feel like investing the time/tools to do it myself in the driveway. I also don't want to pay someone to do it as i don't think the car is worth it
 
Pay attention to the chains/cam timing. We have had more than one vehicle towed back to the shop with a ruined engine because the customer wanted to do the job themselves to "save money". Turns out they saved nothing and ended up with an even bigger expense.
Investigate before hand what special tools are required to do this job. You will need them.
I bought the locks for the cams. It looks like putting the new chain on and keeping it where it needs to be while the guide and tensioner is reinstalled is a 2 person job. I hope like hell I can get it right!
 
If the pump on my '14 Taurus ever :poo:s the bed, i'm just gonna part the thing out and call it a day. I've looked into doing the pump/chains and just honestly don't feel like investing the time/tools to do it myself in the driveway. I also don't want to pay someone to do it as i don't think the car is worth it
The unfortunate part is I just can't swing a car note right now otherwise I'd let it be someone else's issue. I dont get how I'm always broke but here we are. I make plenty of money but I guess thats a conversation I need to have with my wife and not here, LOL.
 
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Fwiw-right before I made the career change to buses-I did the water pump on an edge and a Taurus-while I was able to get the Taurus apart and back together with the engine still in the bay-I dropped the subframe on the edge and literally took half the time
 
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