How can I tell if my Fan Clutch is dead or dying

Morales

New Member
Apr 29, 2005
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Miami, FL
The temps in my car were really going up past the middle a few weeks back. I got a new radiator installed and it brought down the temps, the car is starting to warm up again and while idling it will hit the middle mark and if left there long enough to the 0. The car has a new water pump, radiator and 180 T-Stat. Im guessing the fan clutch is going south. A buddy of mine told me to run the car until it gets hot then try and turn the fan by hand, if the fan moves then the clutch is bad.. does that make any sense to anyone?

Can a bad fan clutch really affect the temps that much?

and why should i get the Heavy Duty 60 dollar unit over the $30 dollar unit.

Thanks in advance..
 
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I was always told that if you can move the move and it feels losse that it is bad. The fan and clucth should have some resistance on it. I would go with a electric fan. I use one from a 96 and up mustang. I really like it.


What happens when you start driving again does the temp drop?
 
Jkstang78 said:
I was always told that if you can move the move and it feels losse that it is bad. The fan and clucth should have some resistance on it. I would go with a electric fan. I use one from a 96 and up mustang. I really like it.


What happens when you start driving again does the temp drop?

Yeah I drive about 30 miles to work and when i got there today i poped the hood and spun the fan easily.. no problems. When im driving on the highway doing 65 - 70mph the tems are low, it's when im idiling at a light or driving in the city that my temps go up. that's why im guessing it's the fan because of a lack of air circulation on the radiator.. the fan itself looks fine and has no cracks. Can't go with an electric now because of money issues..
 
How about $30 for a junkyard Taurus 3.8 liter fan? $5 for a switch, $5-$10 for a 30 amp relay and you are in business! I couldn't believe how rev-happy mine felt after losing my stock (locked up clutch) fan. Anything above 40 MPH keeps our mouth-breathers cool, and when I am in traffic I just click the fan on.

Before sensei Yount jumps in :) , next step would be a DCControl fan controller that gradually spools up the fan and only runs as fast as it needs to. $100+ for that little luxury, I'm just not there quite yet. I could use that $100 to get my lower intake ported by TMOSS, push the little button for the fan once in a while and be all happy!
 
The fan should spin a lot easier when the motor is cold than when warm. The fan should not hardly spin at all when hot (as said).

Silicone leaking out of the clutch hub is a tell that it is on its last leg.

Good luck.
 
Black 93 Fox said:
Summit sells a proform electric fan 135 shipped.


DONT BUY PROFORM!!!! I bought a 7qt oil pan and it sucks horribly!!! weld seams leak like a mother, and now i have JB weld smeared all over the place to stop the leak instead of pullin the motor.
Could of just had a bad one but i will never buy that cheap crap again. Just my opinion though! :nono:
 
Morales said:
So I can go to Discount and pick one up then..

either the regular unit or the Heavy Duty one correct? both will fit the car?
I had good luck with an Imperial Heavy Duty clutch (lifetime warranty). I also chose to renew the fan blade at the same time with a metal replacement from Flex-a-lite (avl at Summit, PAW, etc).

Good luck.
 
BERT306 said:
DONT BUY PROFORM!!!! I bought a 7qt oil pan and it sucks horribly!!! weld seams leak like a mother, and now i have JB weld smeared all over the place to stop the leak instead of pullin the motor.
Could of just had a bad one but i will never buy that cheap crap again. Just my opinion though! :nono:

Wish I would have read this befor i bought it( ordered it a few hours ago) o well guess i'll see if there electric fan's are just as bad. :(
 
If someone lives in a hot climate (and does not tach the motor up much), the HD unit is the way to go IMHO. Some folks dont like it because it is tight and the perception is that it robs HP. You cant have your cake and eat it too - in order to turn the fan, it requires work (via parasitic loss). The dyno work I have seen only really shows a loss at higher revs. In 110* ambient temps, I could care less, I just want the motor to stay cool. (Just posting info for info's sake).

I would not have tried a non HD unit myself (those are often for cars with no A/C and/or cars which are not in hot climates). It does not get much hotter than the desert SW. :)
 
You might do well to check out the Ramcharger dual fan if a new clutch is going to cost you $60. I just got mine, and without the harness, it's $87 shipped. You can pick up Bosch 30A relays for $2ea, a fuse holder, fuse, and a two position switch, and you are good to go for under $100.
 
Black 93 Fox said:
Wish I would have read this befor i bought it( ordered it a few hours ago) o well guess i'll see if there electric fan's are just as bad. :(

I guess the proform isnt bad per se but if you so much as sneeze nearby, the blades break off. It's made of the cheapest plastic in the world. All said though, the temp controller actually does it's job but the cooling effect is marginal at best. My temp creeps up slowly while stopped.
 
crazypete said:
I guess the proform isnt bad per se but if you so much as sneeze nearby, the blades break off. It's made of the cheapest plastic in the world. All said though, the temp controller actually does it's job but the cooling effect is marginal at best. My temp creeps up slowly while stopped.

How long ago did you buy yours. maybe they change the plastic since you bought yours i hope.
 
Like not even 3 months ago from jegs. It's the current rendition and yes the plastic is weak weak weak. I unbolted my radiator supports and my radiator tipped and touched the WP (engine off) and this was enough to break a blade off. Then another blade broke off during uninstall. =/

Dude, just be real careful with it and you should be ok.
 
crazypete said:
Like not even 3 months ago from jegs. It's the current rendition and yes the plastic is weak weak weak. I unbolted my radiator supports and my radiator tipped and touched the WP (engine off) and this was enough to break a blade off. Then another blade broke off during uninstall. =/

Dude, just be real careful with it and you should be ok.

I plan to did yours come with all the relays and stuff to wire it up?