How Do I Get 300 Hp!?!

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by traewolfe, Nov 3, 2012.

  1. I have a 95 GT. What is the most economical way to get 300 HP and remain naturally aspirated? Your help and input is appreciated.
  2. Is that 300hp at the crank or at the rear wheels? I'm over 300hp at the crank and I got there economically.
  3. Yes, and what is the drop off at the rear wheels?
  4. You could find a used top end kit and throw in some thinner head gaskets. Add some long tubes, an exhaust, and a good tune. I think that will get you to about 300 or more at the crank...
  5. Not so eco build, buy the trickflow top end kit.
    Eco Build:
    Custom Grind cam is preferred, but you could be extra cheap and get an alphabet cam and hope for the best (E and B are the favorites) 15
    Gt40 heads 25 hp
    remove silencers and toss together some form of a k and N filter with cai 5-10 hp
    GT40 intake 15hp
    Undrivepulleys 5 hp
    Throttle body (found on the GT40) 2-3 hp
    Remove smog powered items 7hp
    Remove A/C 7hp
    Stock Hp 215

    That adds upto 297 horsepower at the flywheel. These are all estimates, you can always make more or less horsepower with the heads, they're generally good upto 40 horsepower depending on the port work and condition of the heads.

    The heads would run 200, with port work 500 to 600 (It's always close to 600, but varies everywhere)
    intake and throttle body around 150, probably less
    under drive pulleys 150
    Silencer removal, free.
    Remove a/c and smog, new belt I believe, 10 dollars?
    Cam 200

    Total cost for what 'could' get you to 300 at the fly (there's more guess work in sourced parts): 1110

    That's compared to the trickflow top end kit which would put you at 350 at the flywheel (as claimed by sellers) which costs about 2400, it isn't that expensive.

    if you come up short on the horsepower, you could always add in longtube headers and x pipe for about another 400 and that should get you there. Or could throw that money at a tune instead. It all depends.

    Your best friend for an eco build is craigslist though.

    Also, the general rule of thumb was anywhere between 13 to 15 percent. so if you make 215 at the flywheel, multiple times 15 percent, take that number, and subtract from 215, then you're making about 183-185 horsepower at the wheels.
  6. About the most affordable setup N/A is the Thumper head combo. It will run you about a grand. Thumper claims 300 or better at the flywheel. With some tweaking you might be able to get 300rwhp.

    I don't believe there are any thinner head gaskets than the stock ones, and the AC might pull 7hp when it's running, but nothing when it isn't. If HP is your goal, don't bother with removing the AC.

  7. Who makes Thumper and are those numbers based on everything else being stock?
  8. How do the GT40 heads and intake compare to the cobra ones?
  9. The Cobra uses GT40 heads. Then there are GT40P heads that came on some Ford Explorers. The GT40s flow a little better than the E7TE heads that come on at GT. The P heads off the Explorers flow the best. Once you start getting into port work though, the differences between them aren't that great. Thumper Performance is out of Orange Park Florida. He sets up stock E7 heads to work well. He used to post on this website.

    I would go with Combo 3 with the Trick Flow camshaft. For $1090, you can't beat it. Combo that up with a good Cobra or Explorer, or GT40 intake. You can get anyone of those for $200 or less used on ebay or Craigslist all day long. Just steer clear of the Chinese knock offs.

  10. Thanks a lot, I live about 30 min. from Orange Park so that is really convenient. As far as intakes go, is one any better than the other?
  11. What and where are the silencers you are referring to?
  12. The GT40, Cobra, and Explorer are all virtually identical. Which one you choose is really up to which appearance you want. An original 94-95 Cobra would be the easiest to install, because it already has the elbow on it. However, they do command the most money by far. You can also get a 93' Cobra, GT40, or Explorer intake and put an adapter elbow on it. If you are so close to Orange Park, you can ask Thumper the details on what will work best for you. Stuff like rockers and so forth. It's probably easiest to get a set of pedastal mount rockers. You could stick with stock rockers, but if you are really trying to get 300rwhp, a good set of roller rockers will add a few extra hp to help you get there. There are also things to consider like exhaust, throttle body, MAF, etc, etc. However, the key thing is to get a good set of heads, cam and intake. That's where the most hp is. You might also want to consider changing your lifters if your original ones have a lot of miles on them. It's not a HP item, just a kind of while you're in there thing. The best ones to get are another set of original lifters. I think the whole set is around $116 or so on Summit.

  13. He's talking about the Donkey Penis. If you pull your original air filter box out, there is a silencer that routes air in from the inner fender (it looks like a donkey penis). It actually restricts the airflow into the filter a little, and doesn't seem to do anything to silence the incoming air anyway. Not sure why the put it there in the first place, but it pops right off.

  14. I think it gives the wheel well a better, smoother look when looking at the wheel. Other than that, useless. Well what I mean is I would pull this and the air silencer too. More air circulation, and that adds.

    And no matter the route you go on an eco 300 hp build it'll max cost 1500 assuming you're efficient in your sourcing. Theres been guys who spent 2 grand on performance and still not at 300 rwhp.

    I'd go with the thumper route Kurt said, it's all there, less guess work and waiting for deals (I've seen the website like twice before and it left my head:p)
  15. The car already has a CAI, would the "Donkey Penis" still be there, and if so, would it affect the CAI?
  16. I can't imagine how you could leave the donkey penis with a CAI, it's inside the fenderwell, here's a write-up on removal w/pics:
  17. No, if you have a CAI, then it's already gone.

  18. You'd be aiming for ~260rwhp behind a T5 tranny if you're aiming for 300 crank HP. External bolt-ons plus GT40 heads/Explorer intake would get you there for a fairly modest outlay. If you're confident in your DIY porting skills, you could gain even more HP by porting the aforementioned heads and lower intake.
    Stepping up to 300rwhp (~350 crank) costs a lot more 'cause now you'd need to add aftermarket aluminum heads, cam, intake (unless Explorer lower is ported), roller rockers, 24lb injectors, and a dyno tune.
  19. Don't get all wrapped around the wire about a peak hp number. You can get a 302 to put out a lot of peak hp with huge aluminum heads and a huge camshaft. Unfortunately you have sacrificed a lot of average hp to make that peak number. Average hp is what makes a car fast. A good set of stock ported heads may never get you that peak 300rwhp, but because they have smaller valves and good air velocity they are going to make more power down low on the rpm band which helps the car build momentum faster. Wouldn't you rather beat someone with 350rwhp with a car only making 280rwhp?

  20. Good point! I am more interested in light-to-light performance and that good ol' muscle car sound! Does the Trick Flow stage 1 cam have a good lope to it?