how do you kill the wheel hop on s197?

Discussion in '2005 - 2009 Specific Tech' started by karagannis112, Feb 9, 2011.

  1. My main question in the title clearly defines this thread. I purchased a 2008 GT with 8k miles about 3 months ago. The wheel hop alone is killing me off the line. It is annoying to have that 1-3sec delay before you start moving. Some one said to get lower control arms and a panhard bar. Is that enough to completely stop the wheel hop? If it is enough, which brands would you recommend for the parts needed to correct this mustang injustice?
  2. Get the LCA's from Maxumum Motorsports. Your OEM panhard bar should be good to go.

  3. Ante re Karragianni! C.H.E. are actually the best LCA's and extremely price friendly!
  4. Lower control arms for sure will help out I dont think it will completly get rid of it. It should calm it down a lot though. seems to have some pretty good quality things as well.
  5. I have the UMI rear LCAs and the relocation brackets. Like $200 normally, but around major holidays they usually have 15% off. If your car is stock height you should have very little to no wheel hop with that setup. The rear is very planted on mine.
  6. Try uca,lca adjustable panhard bar and panhard bar brace also wider wheels won't hurt.
  7. I still had wheel hop after putting in an adjustable panhard bar. The car did seem to handle a little better though.

    J&M "street" LCA's eliminated the wheel hop. As a bonus, they gave the car a more settled rear end in bumpy turns. I put in the matching UCA later. Handling improved a little more but the LCA's seemed to do the most.
  8. I agree, adding the UCA after the LCAs on mine seemed to make very little difference. And the panhard has very little, if anything, to do with wheel hop. It keeps the rear axle centered under the car and yes will increase the handling (harder bushings and stiffer bar = less flex, same as LCAs). An adjustable one may be needed if you lower the car in order to recenter the rear axle. Having a rear that doesn't bounce around all the time makes the entire car feel much more stable and safer.
  9. Generally, my customers rid of their wheel hop by just installing a quality set of LCA's.

    The relocation brackets for you, at this point may not help you.

    An adjustable panhard rod has very little to do with wheel hop.

    If you have any questions, please feel free to shoot me a PM or give me a call. I like talking Suspension:nice:
  10. I bought the Steeda LCA and I love them. I have very little to no wheel hop.
  11. Not to hijack the thread but are relocation brackets worth it with the LCAs? I will be lowering my car a little over an inch all around?
  12. Matt, a good set of LCA's will help. A pan hard bar wont help with wheel hop, it will help get you center your axle when you lower it..Relocation brackets are not necessary with your set-up. Are you on stock tires? That may be part of your problem. Get you a good street friendly drag radial on there, it will hook rather than spinning all the time. You should also see an improvement on wheel hop once you lower it.
  13. Billy whats up man.... haven't seen you on stanget in a while. Yeah I'm running stock tires 255-45-18s and they need to be replaced this year anyway. So your saying skip the relocation brackets? I noticed a lot of wheel hop not just spinning.

    This is what I was thinking of ordering in the spring. Handling Package 1 (Steeda Sport springs and Koni STR.T Series Damper Kit) UMI On car Adjustable urethane bushing Panhard bar
    Anti-Hop Kit-Stage 1 (UMI Lower Control arms and relocation brackets).
    J&M 4-Bolt Camber Plates

    Or maybe I should just stick with Sam Strano's advice and skip the LCAs and relocation brackets. I just figure if I'm going to do my suspension I want to do it right the first time.
  14. I think you should get the LCA's, but I dont think you need relocation brackets. The rest on your list looks good though..Are you going with me to LVD or Epping this year?????? You better, lol..But even if you dont track it, I would get a good tire on the back that is going to hook on the street..
  15. I agree if you're on a limited budget the LCA's are the best place to start. If your car is not lowered then relocation brackets are not required.
  16. The car will be lowered about 1" in the front and 1 1/4th in the rear.
  17. I would like to get out to LVD or Epping. Also are you still on for doing a spring car show? I'm getting sick of this winter and want to take the car out....
  18. The showroom wont be done till Late spring. But there are a couple of other shows I want to go to.I will let you know..
  19. LCA but also get an adjustable UCA that way your angle can be set properly.
  20. the relocation brackets have nothing to do with the car being lowered. it moves the instant center of the car toward the rear to help plant the tires. i put the umi lca's and relocation brackets on my car and it took 100% of my wheel hop away and increased traction like a champ on my regular street tires. i went from blowing the tires away in 3rd to only being able to chirp them occasionally. i have my bars set in the lowest hole on the brackets.