Unfortunately, noMeter could be bad. Do you have another to try?
Thank you....that is what I get until I connect the Yellow wire and the Blue wire to the solenoid. I just realized the fuel gauge and oil pressure gauge are not working either.....I have a feeling everything might be connected. I even removed the cluster from my '92 to see if it was the gauges, but they do not work either.Settings are correct, but I'm not understanding that reading. Those meters usually pop the fuse over 10A.
Here’s what I get on my car with nothing on. 0.2amps at rest
Thank you for the pages from the EVTM.Yellow wire goes to the ignition switch and to fuse #1 (15a). I assume removing the fuse doesn’t change the load.
I’d start by unplugging the ignition harness with the big yellow wire, and see if that reduces the load at the battery.
These are those two pages out of the EVTM and you can see how the yellow wire is connected
Also, don't rule out the ignition switch itself. These things were known to catch fire.
Yes, it is an LX. Swapped with a good oil pressure sending unit, no change.Here’s the instrument cluster wiring for 1989.
You can isolate the cluster by pulling fuse 18 (15A) and that should eliminate the cluster from the equation
I think your car is an LX, so you can eliminate the low fluid module on page 45. That’s for GTs only
Yes, the ground is connected. That was one of the first things I checked as it is a common issue. I have already done the diagnosis on the alternator troubleshooting, and everything there has checked out. Correct resistance and voltage on all wiring. except for one. I did notice that on the green/red wire at the rear of the connector on the D plug had 3.3 volts, rather than the 2.4-2.6, but in the checklist it said anything no voltage, or almost full voltage would be a failed regulator, but it was not less, and not much more.The alternator plug is another known problem, but I agree on the ignition switch, also is the ground wire from the drivers side head to the firewall connected?
Hi Mike,Is this the oem head unit or an aftermarket?
Looks like you may need to seek out another head unit or repair yours.
Nice looking LX!!Yes, it is an LX. Swapped with a good oil pressure sending unit, no change.
I also pulled the #18 fuse, cluster went off...still showing same draw at the battery.
Thanks to those of you going through this step by step with me. I've been working on and racing these things since the late 80's and early 90's, but have never ran into this sort of problem.
Here is the problem child....
Hi Mike,
It is the factory head unit with factory wiring. I will need to test the wiring coming into the stereo. I have another factory stereo, as well as an aftermarket I had used in my 1992. Once either are plugged in, the show the same draw. Do you think it is possible it is the factory amplifier causing this, or just a bad head unit? I believe I have another factory stereo somewhere, but I will have to dig a little deeper to find it...lol