Electrical How many amps could an amp draw draw....

[mikeynonos]

So, it might actually be an amp amp draw?
I am vindicated!
But seriously, why would several radios do the same thing plugged in if the problem is not there unplugged? Are the harness and individual connectors ok? Has the wiring been messed with?

Yes!! You are vindicated...lol

Well, as far as the question goes, the first radio I tried aside from the OEM stereo, while having the same plug ins, it is not a Fox Stereo, which I realized after looking at it again. The second stereo, which is an aftermarket Sony, came out of my '92, but if memory serves me correct, you have to bypass the factory amp to use it.

Mustang5L5 (Mike, I believe), thank you for that information. I did not know that the factory stereo would work without the amp, so that will make it easier to narrow down. I know I have another OEM Fox Body stereo floating around here somewhere. I will update once I can verify.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Try just unplugging the amp, but leave the radio connected. There are two square plugs that connect the main radio harness to the amplifier. Unplug those, and see if the draw is still there.

Might not need to try another head unit at all of it disappears.

 

[mikeynonos]

Okay...another update....

Went out today to try and diagnose the problem further. Last time out I had diagnosed it was the radio, an the DVM was showing .18-.19 with the radio disconnected. Today is a different story. With everything the same as it was, it is now showing .70-.80. I went back to the starter solenoid, and the first wire I removed was going to the alternator. Now I am showing .12-.15. The problem is, I have 2 other factory alternators, so I tried both of them. With these installed, the DVM goes back to the (1.------) infinite OL as it was previously. I am at a loss now.

Any other thoughts or ideas?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Can you borrow another meter?

 

[mikeynonos]

Another quick update....I decided to test wires again, which led me back over to the solenoid. What I did find out is, the Orange/Black wire coming from the alternator, and the Yellow/Black wire coming to the solenoid as well, once disconnected from the solenoid, removes the draw. More specifically, the Yellow/Black wire, once disconnected from the Orange/Black wire, removes the drain. Also checked the ohms on the wiring again, and that all checked out fine.

 

[mikeynonos]

Can you borrow another meter?

I can try to, but I don't think it is the meter.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Can you borrow another meter?

I already gave him an easy way to test the meter.
Remote diagnosis is difficult.

 

[Wayne Waldrep]

Can you borrow another meter?

100%

 

[Wayne Waldrep]

My opinion.... And this isn't worth 2 cents... You have too many variables. You need to pick a starting point and eliminate things. If you remove something from the equation and it doesn't change anything, don't connect it back right now. Or think of it this way..... Disconnect everything and add one thing back at a time. Only one. You keep everything connected and keep chasing the problem all around. If it were mine, instead of a month of torture, I'd disconnect everything. And i mean all of it.
Like i said, that's just me thinking out loud. There's plenty excellent electrical guys in here helping you. I also would at the very least try a different meter like Mike said.

 

[mikeynonos]

My opinion.... And this isn't worth 2 cents... You have too many variables. You need to pick a starting point and eliminate things. If you remove something from the equation and it doesn't change anything, don't connect it back right now. Or think of it this way..... Disconnect everything and add one thing back at a time. Only one. You keep everything connected and keep chasing the problem all around. If it were mine, instead of a month of torture, I'd disconnect everything. And i mean all of it.
Like i said, that's just me thinking out loud. There's plenty excellent electrical guys in here helping you. I also would at the very least try a different meter like Mike said.

Thanks Wayne...

That's exactly where I am at. When I found the radio was the problem, that's what I did. I plugged things in one by one until the draw appeared. That was 3 days ago. Today, picking up exactly where I left off, now there is a draw coming from something else that was connected when I tested them last time. It was not there, but now it is.

I will try another meter, but I honestly don't believe that will change things. But, in order to eliminate that possibility, I will do it. I tested the meter as suggested by 7991LXnSHO, and it it checked out. The previous owner had a ton of work done at a shop, and I have found numerous wiring issues already.

Thank you for the suggetion.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

My opinion.... And this isn't worth 2 cents... You have too many variables. You need to pick a starting point and eliminate things. If you remove something from the equation and it doesn't change anything, don't connect it back right now. Or think of it this way..... Disconnect everything and add one thing back at a time. Only one. You keep everything connected and keep chasing the problem all around. If it were mine, instead of a month of torture, I'd disconnect everything. And i mean all of it.
Like i said, that's just me thinking out loud. There's plenty excellent electrical guys in here helping you. I also would at the very least try a different meter like Mike said.

Wayne, your diagnostic advice is right on.
Unplugging everything, then plugging one thing only at a time to fix it, then unplug and test the next thing is the best way with multiple problems and newbie diagnostic skills.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Wayne, your diagnostic advice is right on.
Unplugging everything, then plugging one thing only at a time to fix it, then unplug and test the next thing is the best way with multiple problems and newbie diagnostic skills.

Why the thumbs down? Because the process is tedious? I’ve looked for an automotive psychic, but they are harder to find than an electrical gremlin.

 

[mikeynonos]

Why the thumbs down? Because the process is tedious? I’ve looked for an automotive psychic, but they are harder to find than an electrical gremlin.

No, it is not because of the tedious process, but for the comment of "newbie" diagnostic skills. Much like not needing an automotive psychic, I can also do without subtle jabs. I have been working on Mustangs for more than 30 years, and have done plenty of diagnostics....I have just never had an electrical problem jump from one circuit to another, but thanks.

 

[Wayne Waldrep]

Why the thumbs down? Because the process is tedious? I’ve looked for an automotive psychic, but they are harder to find than an electrical gremlin.

I think he may have fat fingered that emoji and can't fix it ...lol.

I know you meant nothing by the comment so I'm sure it's all good.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

No, it is not because of the tedious process, but for the comment of "newbie" diagnostic skills. Much like not needing an automotive psychic, I can also do without subtle jabs. I have been working on Mustangs for more than 30 years, and have done plenty of diagnostics....I have just never had an electrical problem jump from one circuit to another, but thanks.

You need a sense of humor to not strangle or torch a stubborn car problem. I do jest along with with serious advice. You will find that when they are not being triggered by certain non car subjects, most of the folks here are rather fun. No offense was intended.

An Oct 16, 2021 membership date makes you a newbie here, and is part of why we are trying so hard to help. We do not know your resume or skill sets, at least yet.
Do not take levity personally. If I am going to jab, it will not be subtle, and it does not happen often that the delete key is not used first.
I’m glad you tested the meter. How close were the numbers?
Are you just old enough to remember this skit? The Great Carnac is who I was picturing about hiring. Except for that Johnny is dead, he would make life much easier!

 

[Mustang5L5]

Okay...another update....

Went out today to try and diagnose the problem further. Last time out I had diagnosed it was the radio, an the DVM was showing .18-.19 with the radio disconnected. Today is a different story. With everything the same as it was, it is now showing .70-.80. I went back to the starter solenoid, and the first wire I removed was going to the alternator. Now I am showing .12-.15. The problem is, I have 2 other factory alternators, so I tried both of them. With these installed, the DVM goes back to the (1.------) infinite OL as it was previously. I am at a loss now.

Any other thoughts or ideas?

Are your numbers consistent? In other words you get the same value with one alternator, and max out on the other two? Or do your values differ for the same alternator?

With the alternator completely removed from the car (and the equation) what do you get for a reading?

It does seem like your results are a bit inconsistent.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Are your numbers consistent? In other words you get the same value with one alternator, and max out on the other two? Or do your values differ for the same alternator?

With the alternator completely removed from the car (and the equation) what do you get for a reading?

It does seem like your results are a bit inconsistent.

Yes the numbers should not be inconsistent. Can you, @mikeynonos , take all three alternators to the parts store and have them bench tested? That would help with one problem at no cost.

 

[mikeynonos]

You need a sense of humor to not strangle or torch a stubborn car problem. I do jest along with with serious advice. You will find that when they are not being triggered by certain non car subjects, most of the folks here are rather fun. No offense was intended.

An Oct 16, 2021 membership date makes you a newbie here, and is part of why we are trying so hard to help. We do not know your resume or skill sets, at least yet.
Do not take levity personally. If I am going to jab, it will not be subtle, and it does not happen often that the delete key is not used first.
I’m glad you tested the meter. How close were the numbers?
Are you just old enough to remember this skit? The Great Carnac is who I was picturing about hiring. Except for that Johnny is dead, he would make life much easier!

I will apologize, as I know better than to let things get to me. This car just has been very much a problem child, and it actually had me a little more riled up than I would like to admit. I usually laugh this sort of thing off, but for whatever reason, this time I did not.

As you, Mike, and Wayne have all said, check the meter, as it should not be inconsistent. I tested everything on the meter again tonight, and it measured voltage just fine, ohms checked out as well, so I went to test the light bulb yet again. This time it did not light up. I replaced the battery and double checked the fuse, both were fine. I ended up opening the voltmeter, and it had a burnt trace. I will get a new meter tomorrow. so I can start all over again.

 

[mikeynonos]

Are your numbers consistent? In other words you get the same value with one alternator, and max out on the other two? Or do your values differ for the same alternator?

With the alternator completely removed from the car (and the equation) what do you get for a reading?

It does seem like your results are a bit inconsistent.

Hey Mike, thanks or making me think a little more in depth. As I just told 7991LXnSHO, after you, him, and Wayne mentioned the inconsistencies, I checked the meter yet again. It measured voltage and ohms just fine, but I could not get it to measure amperage, at least not consistently. I double checked the fuse, and the battery, but neither seemed to be the problem, so I took the back off of the meter, and discovered a burnt trace, so obviously, it was working only when it felt like it. I ill purchase a new meter tomorrow, and hopefully get to the bottom of this electrical system.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Glad you got the the bottom of that. Something didn’t seem right in the readings you were getting