Electrical How many amps could an amp draw draw....

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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Hey Mike, thanks or making me think a little more in depth. As I just told 7991LXnSHO, after you, him, and Wayne mentioned the inconsistencies, I checked the meter yet again. It measured voltage and ohms just fine, but I could not get it to measure amperage, at least not consistently. I double checked the fuse, and the battery, but neither seemed to be the problem, so I took the back off of the meter, and discovered a burnt trace, so obviously, it was working only when it felt like it. I ill purchase a new meter tomorrow, and hopefully get to the bottom of this electrical system.
Sorry about the meter, but glad we could help so far. I have a analog clamshell meter my now deceased RCA mentor reccomended, and s Fluke HFT copy. The digital HFT coupon special gets the most use in case in case I drop it. The new lead pack probably cost as much as the meter. did. If you are looking to buy a meter localky, testing your alternators should be done happily at the store. That should eliminate a suspected diode issue.
 
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Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
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While we have a break, may i say that i HATE electrical stuff! :jester:
 
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manicmechanic007

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Your meter is okay if it is reading OL
Simply means it is out of range or the leads are reversed or you are using the wrong scale.
So if you are checking resistance for instance and the battery is hooked up
And there is some voltage in the circuit you are testing it will read OL for a while before burning up your meter
You need to check and recheck what you are doing and what scale you are using for your particular test
A pro like me if you are chasing a draw would not be too concerned about the actual number of milliamps draw
Rather I would concentrate on the the draw itself then when you fix that your trouble is over
Might give the guy a number just to joke about later
 

manicmechanic007

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Chassis master here and Electrical specialist Love chasing electrons we call it
I have 3 Fosgate amps in a 94 E150 van 2 400's and a 1000
The 1000 watt has a 30 amp fuse that should never blow
However if you run an amp real hard and it clips the fuse will blow meaning it was drawing more than 30 amps
Other two 400 watt amps both have 20 amp fuses
DVOM is most likely okay if reading OL
 
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mikeynonos

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While we have a break, may i say that i HATE electrical stuff! :jester:
LOL...I normally do not mind chasing the electrical, but this car has thrown me for a loop :confused: which is why I started to ask questions in the first place. Seeing that the multimeter had a burnt trace might be a saving grace....I thought I was going crazy!
 
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mikeynonos

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Your meter is okay if it is reading OL
Simply means it is out of range or the leads are reversed or you are using the wrong scale.
So if you are checking resistance for instance and the battery is hooked up
And there is some voltage in the circuit you are testing it will read OL for a while before burning up your meter
You need to check and recheck what you are doing and what scale you are using for your particular test
A pro like me if you are chasing a draw would not be too concerned about the actual number of milliamps draw
Rather I would concentrate on the the draw itself then when you fix that your trouble is over
Might give the guy a number just to joke about later
Good morning, manic,

The meter is dead. It was reading voltage and ohms, but was very inconsistent as far as amperage. It had me chasing my tail as it would read fine on one day, but the next, those numbers would alter. The fuse and battery checked out, but upon further inspection, there was a burnt trace inside the meter itself. Not sure why the fuse didn't blow, but it is what it is. The fact that the amperage was jumping like it was, I could never be sure that the voltage or ohm readings were correct.

We'll try again this weekend with a new multimeter. Now just trying to choose which one to buy without breaking the bank...lol
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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LOL...I normally do not mind chasing the electrical, but this car has thrown me for a loop :confused: which is why I started to ask questions in the first place. Seeing that the multimeter had a burnt trace might be a saving grace....I thought I was going crazy!
You likely are still going crazy.
It was a short trip for me :jester:
 
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manicmechanic007

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I have 3 The best ones are given to you
Love my expensive Fluke meter but
Started with a jippo 100 dollar one in the eighties
Now you can get a good one for 20 bucks
Hit the pawn shops
Take a flashlight battery with you and see if one works
 
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mikeynonos

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I have 3 The best ones are given to you
Love my expensive Fluke meter but
Started with a jippo 100 dollar one in the eighties
Now you can get a good one for 20 bucks
Hit the pawn shops
Take a flashlight battery with you and see if one works
That's not a bad suggestion, but I think I will buy new. I don't need to inherit anyone else's problems, I have enough of my own! :jester:
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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I enjoy electrical diagnostic work as well. I'm an L1 certified Master knuckle buster and an undercar specialist. I'm also dumb as a brick at times and need a beer just to get my thoughts in check. I don't drink often so I guess y'all can tell how that goes.
 
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mikeynonos

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Okay everyone....since you have been helping me with this electrical issue, how about giving me input on a new meter? (This is much easier than trying to diagnose the electrical issue). I have it narrowed down to 3 different DMMs, as I will not spend $200 on a Fluke. Here are the three I am considering....

1) Craftsman Model# CMMT14171 - It is automotive based, and around $55

2) Innova 3340 - Also automotive based, and roughly $100

3) Klein MM600 - Not automotive based, but I know Klein is a well respected brand and makes nice electronic tools. About $70

Any thoughts or personal experiences with any of these?
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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I’d not object to having this.

Display and Interface​

The LCD display is a standard 3 3/4 digit (max 3999 displayed). It is clear and concise and shows all the symbols, such as low battery, AC/DC volts, current, ohms, degrees, dwell angle, temperature units, etc. When a reading goes over range, it will display ‘OL’, aside from DC amps.

Protection​

… The milliamp input circuit is protected by a 500mA fuse, though the DC current input is un-fused. While you can test to 15A, the meter must be allowed to rest for 15 minutes or more for each 15-second test duration.
 
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mikeynonos

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I’d not object to having this.

Display and Interface​

The LCD display is a standard 3 3/4 digit (max 3999 displayed). It is clear and concise and shows all the symbols, such as low battery, AC/DC volts, current, ohms, degrees, dwell angle, temperature units, etc. When a reading goes over range, it will display ‘OL’, aside from DC amps.

Protection​

… The milliamp input circuit is protected by a 500mA fuse, though the DC current input is un-fused. While you can test to 15A, the meter must be allowed to rest for 15 minutes or more for each 15-second test duration.
Thank you for your input! In all honesty, it is coming down to either this unit, or the Klein. I am not (obviously) pro electrical everything, but I think either of these would be a decent choice.
 

Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
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I have this one and it's great. Very well made. And it's $40.
20211029_115403.jpg
 
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Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
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I recently recommended the Kline unit to a friend for some homeowner type elevtrical work. I see it also does DC amps up to 10a so that should be fine.


I have a bunch of meters from my days as an electrician and because of some of my needs as an engineer. I use a fluke 117 for most of my household stuff, but I’ve also used a $10 Radio Shack meter for basic automotive stuff and it gets the job done. For your needs here, that Kline should do it.


Really, the one difference in many of the cheaper meters is DC amps. Some only go to a max of 1A which really doesn’t help with troubleshooting on a vehicle. As costs have come down, more and more cheaper meters now have that function.
 
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mikeynonos

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Thank you all for your input! I do not do a ton or early cars, but I did, within the past few years, work on a 1965 Corvette and a 1967 GTO. Not sure how much it would come in handy to have the RPM and Dwell on a multimeter. The one thing I liked and also disliked on the Innova....it is 15A, but it is also unfused. The Klein is 10A, but it is fused. Jut trying to make the best educated decision. :chin:chin
 

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
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Won’t won’t miss that extra 5amps for troubleshooting excessive current draw. It’s not really necessary.
 
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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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If you do not need the points features, the fused 10 amp part sounds good. A new quick blow fuse is better than a burned trace.
 
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