How much do Terminator motors go for???

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You honestly think you are going to build a 800hp motor? If so you are goin to need a FAT wallet. You realize that a 800hp mustang is like a good 10 second car, and a termi is nowhere near a 10 second car out of the box.
 
For the amount of money that you'd spend on JUST a stock 03/04 Cobra engine, you could buy a complete 5.4L 2V built/forged longblock with stage 3 ported heads from MMR, a complete supercharger kit, AND have money left over.

Modular Mustang Racing
 
There is no wrong or right way to do it. You have to match up your goals of the car along with your budget. If 11's is all you want a centrifugal is a good option for $5k or so installed but you'll be at risk of hurting the stock engine. Build the shortblock and do most of the work yourself and you are looking at $3k there. Plus now you can make a little more power with the same blower. However if you want 600, 700RWHP then you start dishing out more money again for upgraded blowers, ported or aftermarket heads, cams, bigger fuel system, etc...

A stock Terminator motor can make 450RWHP with about $1500 in bolt ons and run mid 11's all day long with a decent driver. Get a used or new whipple 2.3 for $2200-3400 and you are making 600-650RWHP and you are well into the 10's on a stock engine. If you look you can find deals on them for under $10k. I've seen them as cheap at $5k with decent miles on them but mostly in the $7-8k range without transmission and under 40k miles.

I went the hard route because I started with a 4v engine. I did the eaton swap on my car for $2500 (me sourcing the parts one by one and installing), then I later built the shortblock (paid for sb assembly and bought most parts when I found deals) and spent $3k. Another $3600 on a whipple 3.4 and another $1k on all new timing components, gaskets, etc... I'm still trying to chase a bug down in the tune but at 2500 RPM my car made 565RWTQ with only 10* of timing on a Mustang Dyno. That's with the biggest pulley (lowest amount of boost) I can fit on the car.

In the end it's building what you want and what fits your goals. You can make plenty of power with a 2v but the 4v will make just as much if not more but you pay a little more to do it.

Bill
 
There is no wrong or right way to do it. You have to match up your goals of the car along with your budget. If 11's is all you want a centrifugal is a good option for $5k or so installed but you'll be at risk of hurting the stock engine. Build the shortblock and do most of the work yourself and you are looking at $3k there. Plus now you can make a little more power with the same blower. However if you want 600, 700RWHP then you start dishing out more money again for upgraded blowers, ported or aftermarket heads, cams, bigger fuel system, etc...

A stock Terminator motor can make 450RWHP with about $1500 in bolt ons and run mid 11's all day long with a decent driver. Get a used or new whipple 2.3 for $2200-3400 and you are making 600-650RWHP and you are well into the 10's on a stock engine. If you look you can find deals on them for under $10k. I've seen them as cheap at $5k with decent miles on them but mostly in the $7-8k range without transmission and under 40k miles.

I went the hard route because I started with a 4v engine. I did the eaton swap on my car for $2500 (me sourcing the parts one by one and installing), then I later built the shortblock (paid for sb assembly and bought most parts when I found deals) and spent $3k. Another $3600 on a whipple 3.4 and another $1k on all new timing components, gaskets, etc... I'm still trying to chase a bug down in the tune but at 2500 RPM my car made 565RWTQ with only 10* of timing on a Mustang Dyno. That's with the biggest pulley (lowest amount of boost) I can fit on the car.

In the end it's building what you want and what fits your goals. You can make plenty of power with a 2v but the 4v will make just as much if not more but you pay a little more to do it.

Bill

that sounds great but this dude asked about a termi motor price. we both know that building a 2v to be faster than a termi swapped 2v is WAY cheaper and the car would be faster with less money. he didnt even get into a whipple/KB setup, thats another 5-6k
 
that sounds great but this dude asked about a termi motor price. we both know that building a 2v to be faster than a termi swapped 2v is WAY cheaper and the car would be faster with less money. he didnt even get into a whipple/KB setup, thats another 5-6k

I was stating other options as well and the fact that upgrading from a base terminator gets you into the big HP numbers quite easily. Maybe the KB's are 5-6k but I paid $3600 for my Whipple 3.4, plus $400 for the TB otherwise nothing else was needed to add it to a terminator motor.

How exactly do you figure it will be cheaper and easier? If he takes his stock block and buys rods, pistons/rings/bearings, crank, machine work, assembly, ARP hardware, oil pump you are looking at $2500-3500 depending on the who does the work and if you upgrade to an aluminum block add another $200-400. The most basic non-intercooled vortech kit is going to cost another $3200. If he skimped and only replaced the chain tensioners and new head gaskets $400. Did all the work himself and had it dyno tuned another $300-500. So you are at $6600 to 8000 assuming he or friends did the majority of the work and used his stock auto.

He wants to use his stock auto and most people selling terminator motors are selling them with the T-56 in the $10k range it. He could keep and an eye out for one without a trans and pay in the 6600-8000 range. Here is one for $7500 with T-56 and gas tank.

2003 Cobra Motor and trans - SVTPerformance

Installing one in a 2v isn't that big of a deal the biggest difference is the coils are wired different but if you have the wiring from the Cobra it would be pretty easy. Then he would just need a tune, which would be a stock cobra tune as well as some adjustments for the auto.

To the OP yes you can use your stock trans.

Bill
 
I was stating other options as well and the fact that upgrading from a base terminator gets you into the big HP numbers quite easily. Maybe the KB's are 5-6k but I paid $3600 for my Whipple 3.4, plus $400 for the TB otherwise nothing else was needed to add it to a terminator motor.

How exactly do you figure it will be cheaper and easier? If he takes his stock block and buys rods, pistons/rings/bearings, crank, machine work, assembly, ARP hardware, oil pump you are looking at $2500-3500 depending on the who does the work and if you upgrade to an aluminum block add another $200-400. The most basic non-intercooled vortech kit is going to cost another $3200. If he skimped and only replaced the chain tensioners and new head gaskets $400. Did all the work himself and had it dyno tuned another $300-500. So you are at $6600 to 8000 assuming he or friends did the majority of the work and used his stock auto.

He wants to use his stock auto and most people selling terminator motors are selling them with the T-56 in the $10k range it. He could keep and an eye out for one without a trans and pay in the 6600-8000 range. Here is one for $7500 with T-56 and gas tank.

2003 Cobra Motor and trans - SVTPerformance

Installing one in a 2v isn't that big of a deal the biggest difference is the coils are wired different but if you have the wiring from the Cobra it would be pretty easy. Then he would just need a tune, which would be a stock cobra tune as well as some adjustments for the auto.

To the OP yes you can use your stock trans.

Bill

Well I dont have a big long fancy explanation. but ill say this... you are assuming he replaces everything. forged rotating assembly= 1300 for starts (I dont know how much all the small things cost) and you can find a used vortech s trim 1500. He will need the supporting mods and get them for like say another grand. Thats cheap (leaving out the labor in our equations because we dont know if he can do it or if he has friends that can). Ill tell you right now you are the more knowledgeable person on this topic, but if he wants to keep it basic it can be done for very cheap. I mean he can go to a shop like MMR per say, buy a forged short block for 2,500.00, 100 shot dry kit for 400.00. thats 2900 plus whatever other parts he needs to complete the job. thats dirt cheap. IM NOT trying to challenge your knowledge just going off the original price givin of the termi motor vs the simple route that a lot of guys go... I cant go as in depth as you because Ive never done the swap. But from what ive been purchasing for my car, the amount of money spent, and my goals in mind what I have planed seems alot cheaper/fatser than a STOCK termi or termi swap 2v. thats all Im sayin bud. im not getting into KB/whippled talk because thats another beast... AND i know ill lose LOL how about them saints!!!
 
I love threads like these. They really inspire me to learn how to do all of these things. So I think i'm going to start buying tools and just go for it. I recently paid off my car so it's mine to tear up if I do something wrong. Good replys on this subject Bill.