How much hp from basic parts on a 5.0

Matts89Notch

New Member
Jan 26, 2007
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I was looking at some parts and would like to know about how much I could gain from them. I have a 89 notch that is stock...I want to start out by getting a 73mm maf, a 70mm tb, and a ported edelbrock intake...Then in june im going to get a full exhuast w/o cats. In the process I will be deleting the A/C and smog along with pullies, a 6G alternator, and a electric fan..



What kind of improvements can I expect to Gain. Is 50hp at the wheels getting my hopes up? There should be a sticky with info for nubs like me that ask dumb questions:nonono: saying stuff like:

A/c delete = aprox. a few hp
pullies=1-2hp
ect.
ect.

just examples who knows??
 
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I don't know about 50hp at the wheels, but when I had ported E7s and stock cam with a Typhoon intake, 70mm MAF/TB, full exhaust, U/D pullies, e-fan and no A/C or smog, I put down 251 rwhp and 289 rwtq.
 
fixed....I was just saying...there should be a sticky

where did u get your e7's and how much were they?

I want to get alum. heads and a nice cam, but thats gonna waite untill next winter..i also know that i will benefit more from these mods after the heads and stuff, I just want to get the basics and start small.
 
All of the minor modifications you listed will get you NO WHERE near a 50hp gain. Not even close.

As far as there being a sticky listing what each type of modification is worth in terms of horsepower, there would be no point to that. A set of 1-1/2" JBA shorty headers on a completely stock 5.0 is documented to give a near 10hp gain because of the increased velocity, but those same headers on a 5.0 with AFR 185 heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM II intake, and a custom cam that sees 6500rpm will actually be choked by those same headers. Horsepower figures for any given part will fluctuate wildly depending on all sorts of variables, how far along the engine build is, what parts have been used so far, age/mileage of the motor, all of that.

A list like that would be all conjecture and pipe dreams.

What I would recommend is going to your local bookstore. There are books upon books with nothing but 5.0L mustang dynosheets from hundreds upon hundreds of dyno tests of different engine combos, part by part. None of them are the last word on anything, but combined they will give you a clearer understanding of what realistic things you can expect with whatever combo/path you decide to take.
 
fixed....I was just saying...there should be a sticky

where did u get your e7's and how much were they?

I want to get alum. heads and a nice cam, but thats gonna waite untill next winter..i also know that i will benefit more from these mods after the heads and stuff, I just want to get the basics and start small.

I have a set of E7 heads that have been very mildly ported and the valves are increased to 1.94 and 1.60. Right now they're bare, no valves, seals, or studs installed and ready to be freshened up. You can PM me if interested and I'm asking $200 as is.
 
you have to make sure you dont fall prey to the marketing hype.

for example, if you read something that says this or that throttle body gives you up to a 25hp gain, that statement in itself is very misleading. putting that throttle body on a stock mustang will yield you pretty much 0 gain. now put that throttle body on a stroked windsor, and yes compared to the stock piece it can gain you 25hp.

if i took all the parts on my car and added up the HP as advertised, i would be driving something that is twice as fast than what im driving now.
 
I have a set of E7 heads that have been very mildly ported and the valves are increased to 1.94 and 1.60. Right now they're bare, no valves, seals, or studs installed and ready to be freshened up. You can PM me if interested and I'm asking $200 as is.

My E7s which havent been ported but have some 1.84/1.54 valves, and a good valve job (new springs, retainers, etc...) on a stock bottem end, stock cam, and cobra intake made 265/308 and 272/316 on a honed and reringed stock bottem end!
 
yeah over heating, no charging, the a/c delete is mainly weight reduction, move the batt to the trunk as well. Just buy a h/c/i combo and go from there all the bolt ons come with the hci in my oppinion like for instance you have to get a bigger tb for a intake and heads then you have to get fuel so then you get 24lberz ect, doing little boltons dont really anything good as far as the ass dyno has confirmed, a shifter and 373 gears will help, subframes, and torque boxes welded.
 
Or you can add up all the lil things and see a slight increase (but not much). But, I concur. HCI is where you will see the largest increase. If you saw increases per pro part like some of the ads out there, it would be sweet. But, welcome to reality. :D

You could always become a ricer and add hp by adding 15hp stickers and 30hp spoiler. :rolleyes: