How-To: "Build an Engine" Tutorial.

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by ozanracing, Feb 28, 2007.

  1. So I Picked up my fresh block today.
    E7TE casting, bored .030" over to fit my pistons.


    I thought I would do a write up about how to build an engine,
    since I have a new camera, and since I was going to be building one
    again I figured why not? So Here's the way I built this motor.

    First thing to do after unloading the block is install the rear
    cam plug.

    Stake it in with a flat head to secure it to the block.

    Apply threadlock to the rear oil galley plugs.

    Should look like this.

    Now the engine can be mounted on a stand:

    I stat with the expansion plugs.

    Drive them in with a socket and mallet. Apply RTV sealer
    to the lip.
    Stake these plugs also. 3 on each one is good.

    Now I clean out the cylinders with PAPER towels and apply a good
    amount of comp cams (or similar) cam break-in lube to protect the bore walls.

    Get out an air compressor and use a nozzle to clean off any debris.

    Clean the blocks bearing saddles with carb cleaner.

    Drive in the timing cover dowels.

    Install the front oil galley plugs, with RTV.

    Drive in the head dowels with a mallet (if the deck is clean, otherwise wait on this step)

    Apply LOTS of cam lube to the lobes and journals. Clean and lube
    the cam bearings, and install the cam carfuly.
    It's easy to guide the cam if there in a long bolt threaded in
    the front.

    Install the camshaft-to-block thrust plate. Use red locktite on the
    bolts, and torque them to 12-15lbs.

    Set the upper bearing inserts (with holes/grooves) in the block.
    The #3 thrust bearing is the one with "side rails".

    Clean the main bearing caps, then install the bearings, lining
    up the "tabs".

    Now the crankshaft can be placed in the block.

    Lay a strip of Plastigauge (green package, .001"-.003")on the journals.
    Make sure the crank is clean, and not oily.

    Seat the main caps by striking them in thier respective (Numbered, with arrows facing towards #1, the front of the engine)
    Locations with a hammer at a 45 degree angle.
    Do not just run the bolts down to allign the main caps in thier registers.
    Torque the caps in three even steps, starting from the center
    outward, to a final setting of 70LBS.
    Let it rest for a minute after being torqued. DO NOT rotate the crank

    Now remove the caps carfuly, and read the measurement.
    .002" main bearing oil clearance.
    (I did the rods the same way, but with them and the crank on a
    workbench, prior to this assembly. Same Ideal .002" for thr rod
    bearing oil clearance.)

    Apply liberal assembly lube to the barrings and main journals
    after cleaning off the

    Replace the caps in order.

    Make sure to lube the rear main seal.

    Torque all but the center, #3 cap, using the same 3-step-center-outward method.
    Pry the crank back and forth to seat the thrust bearing.

    Pry crank forward and while holding it there torque the #3 also.
    Now check and rotate the crank. It should spin freely with little resistasnce.

    Now the crank is finished, and attention can be turned to the pistons/rings/rods and bearings.

    I'll be doing that next. If anyone has a specific question feel free to post up.
    Or comments or whatever....:D


    Attached Files:

  2. Awesome. Sticky request.
  3. Done!


    This is excellent :nice:
  4. I actually do have one question. When you say you are lubricating the rear main seal, where exactly are you doing that? Do you mean on the sides to help it slide in? I ask because I was just putting my flywheel on last week and noticed some junk building up on the rear main seal. It wasn't leaking, but there was some dirt on the area of it that faces the flywheel (the only area visible once installed. I wiped some of the dirt off and therefore some of the oil. Will this be a problem? I am using a scattershield and absolutely do not want to take that thing off again unless this will cause some catestrophic failure. That thing is so time consuming.
  5. I dont understand what you mean when you say..."stake it in" how do you do this and what is the reason behind it?

    Also do you put RTV around the edges BEFORE or AFTER you but them in the block?

    This is a great write up with lots of great pics. I will def use this as a guide when I build my own motor!
  6. Lubericate it on the crank, were it meets the inner portion of the seal, so the surface
    on which it rotates on.

    Shouldn't be a problem, but keep a keen eye on it.
  7. You put a flat head screwdriver up to it at a 45* angle and hit the screwdriver untill it
    makes a dent in both the plug and block.
    This keeps it from coming out.
    Put RTV on the edges BEFORE you install the plug.

  8. I'll assume that the pistons and rods are assembled already, like mine here.
    Now clean the ring lands, and bearing mating surfaces.
    Also keep the rods and thier respective (numbered) caps togeather
    at all times.

    Like this:

    Now take your top ring and place it in a bore. Ude one of the pistons
    turned upside down and square the ring up. Take a feeler gauge and
    note the ring gap. .004" per 1" of bore. My rings are pregapped
    to .018" (you can see on the feeler gauge if you look close at the picture.)
    and that will provide excellent sealing, and still permit the use of n20.

    After your rings check out okay, install the first (Oil) ring.
    Make sure the ends seat flat in the groove. Now wrap the oil ring expanders
    above and below the oil ring

    For the primary and secondary rings it's best to use an expander to install them.
    Follow ring makers directions for correct orientation.

    Now repeat with the remaining pistons.

    Once they are all ringed up, you can install the bearings.

    Turn the crank (might be hard to tell depth in the picture) to its BTC position.
    (so the rod journal is as far away from the block deck as possible)

    Lube the bearings and protect the rod bolts from damaging the bores by covering them
    with bolt protectors or rubber hose.

    Fill up some container large enough to submerge a piston in it with oil and dip the
    rings in.

    Fit your piston ring compressor on now, leaving some of the piston skirt
    exposed to help guide it in.

    Allign the top ring end gap with the arrow or mark on the piston, facing the FRONT of
    the engine. Allign the second ring end gap 180* from the top, facing the rear of the

    Lower the rod down and the piston in. While holding down on the edge of the compressor
    tap the piston in. STOP if it starts to go in and gets stuck. Tap it untill it goes
    all the way into the bore.

    Now rotate the crank and push on the piston (carfuly) to get it lined up with the journal.
    Lube the cap bearing and, noting cap number direction install the cap.
    I torque the rod bolt nuts to 25 ft-lb.

    Not bad for a days work.:D

    Attached Files:

  9. Nice job, especially the clear photos.

    How do you orient your ring gaps? Top ring, 10oclock; second ring, 2oclock; oilring rails opposite sides, oil expander, 6oclock?
  10. Cool thread, good post!
  11. Great write up, this is going to help a lot of people out.
  12. Are you going to complete the whole motor on here? Heads, distibutor,intake, everything. Are you going to do a complete install?
  13. Now to button up the bottom end, install your oil pump, driveshaft and pan.

    Make sure the metal "tang-washer" is positioned up, closest to the deck.
    That way you can remove the distributer without pulling the oil pump driveshaft
    out of the pump.
    Install a new gasket and torque the mounting bolts to 30lbs.
    Also torque the oil pump pickup mounting ear nut to 30lbs. Phew.

    Clean your oil pan, just like EVERYTHING else, just prior to installing
    each part.

    Lay down the oil pan gasket, with a gasket sealer on the side facing the block.
    Use some ultra black RTV on the edges where they meal the rubber seal.

    Put more RTV on the pan rails, just a thin coat.

    Now the oil pan bolts can be started. Loosly assemble.

    Bring the #1 piston up to TDC. Set the cam so the dowel in the 6 O'clock position.
    Allign the "." on the cam sprocket to 6 o'clock. Allign the "." on the crank sprocket
    to the 12 o'clock setting. Slide the sprockets on to look like this.

    A dab of red loctite on the camshaft bolt, and 45lbs of torque will hold it on

    Now clean your timing cover, and install a new front seal and a new gasket with
    an adheisive.

    Bolt the timing cover/waterpump on.

    Slide on the harmonic dampner. It, along with the dowel pins will locate
    the front cover. Now torque the bottom oil pan bolts to 15lbs and the timing cover
    front bolts to 20-25lbs.

    Install with sealant the oil pressure sender adapter or mechanical gauge bung.

    The shortblock is now finished.:D

    Next, clean the deck and heads.

    Install the head gasket with the 'front' designation to the front.

    Put the heads on, alligning with the dowels.

    Clean the threads of the head bolts and coat the top (longer) bolts in oil.
    Loose fit them.

    Clean and apply RTV to the upper threads of the lower bolts.

    Torque them in three equal steps, from the center outward to final torque. (here, 65lbs/ARP bolts.)

    Starting to look good.
    Now get your valvetrain out, it's next.


    Drop in your lifters. Orient the dogbones, with the "top" side up.
    Drop in the pushrods.
    Get the lifter valley 'spider' and position in pushing down on the dogbones.
    There is no set torque spec for the bolts here, but 15lbs will be fine.

    I am using full roler-stud mount rockers. Assuming this is a proven combo, since I wont
    be covering valvetrain geometry. Face the flat side of the roller fulcrum up.

    Your tips line up correctly if the geometry is correct, with little sweep and a
    small central contact patch.

    Finish installing all the rockers. To adjust hydraulic preload, pick a cylinder.
    Rotate the crank clockwise untill the exhaust lifter just starts to come up off
    the base circle of the cam. Just as it starts to come up, you cam be sure the intake valve
    is closed. Hand tighten the rocker nut wile simultaniously 'twirling' the pushrod
    with your other hand. Just as it starts to get hard to spin, stop tightening down
    the nut. This is zero lash, where there is no preload, but all the 'slack is taken up'.
    Depending on your cam, and application, Set the preload by turning the nut tighter
    1/2 turn.(or your predetermined spec.) Now hold it in place and tighten the allen grub screw inside the nut.
    Now that rocker is set. Keep on turning the crank untill that intake lifter comes up,
    opens all the way, then starts to close. When it's 2/3 the way closed, stop turning the crank
    and adjust the exhust valve.
    Repeat for all the cylinders.
    Now set the #1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed)

    Clean your valve covers.

    Lay out your lower intake manifold gaskets. (And crossover strips if you dont use just RTV)

    Torque the valve cover bolts to 12LBS-15LBS
    Now it's time for the intake.

    Attached Files:

  14. Seal the edges of the intake gaskets and lay the manifold into place.

    Torque the intake bolts to 23lbs. After a few minutes, when the gaskets have relaxed, re-torque them.

    Now is a good time to install your motor mounts. Also you can install the crank pully.

    And there it is: Ready to drop in. The dist is installed in the pic, but only to cover the hole so as not to let any debris fall in there. When the motor is in the car, before stabbing the dist. for the final time, I will prime the oil system.
    Then get the #1 piston to 14* BTDC on the compression stroke, Like this:

    Then drop in the dist with the rotor pointing to the #1 plug wire, like this:


    But for now, the next step is to get it off the stand, get the flywheel, disc and pressure plate on, then into the chassis. Might be a few days untill I have the means to get around to it. But I will be continuing this thread untill it's in and running. :)


    Attached Files:

  15. are the top head bolt holes blind or do they go thru?
  16. It's been a few days since I've updated, but as of yesterday, the car is driving. From start to finish, it took me 6 days 'couple hourd a day to remove, tear down, build the new motor and drop it in and get it running.
    I'll try to fill in the 'blank' spots (getting it in the car and running) later on.


    Get a buddy to help drop the engine in. It's a major PITA if you are doing it yourself.
    Trust me.:D

    Here it is, still needs a little tweeking here and there, but it's a stout mill.

    Quick vid:...

    Attached Files:

  17. Have any advice on the best way to break in a car?

    One of buddies used to just place a piece of wood on the gas pedal and let the engine run at 3,000 rpms or so for 20 minutes.. then go out and drive it at different speeds.. i have NO idea if thats the correct way to do it though.
  18. poneypower - That sounds like a break-in for a flat tappet cam.

    ozanracing - Great post! Very nicely done...that will help a lot of people understand and put together their own combos!