How to modify for Road Racing

Discussion in '2005 - 2009 Specific Tech' started by jlisle01, Sep 14, 2007.

  1. I hadn't really heard of one until you mentioned it just then and there. For $50 it's certainly worth a try.

    After 4 sessions of racing I was actually too tired to do the 5th just from fighting all the forces for so long. This may be the panacea I'm looking for. Thanks!
  2. Hi Sanctus, thanks for posting. I also have been bitten by the track bug, though have not been able to afford it much lately...

    Anyhow, I am looking to upgrade the suspension and curious what you think of the Eibach Springs and Sway bars. I can get Eibach springs and bars for ~650, compared to Roush/Steeda/FRPP springs and bars for ~900.

    I am just looking for something more neutral in the corners. With the current stock suspension set-up, I understeer all day long.
  3. Before you start lowering the car try just upgrading the sway bars since it's relatively easy to do. It'll do a world of good to the car by making sure your wheels stay planted during cornering and reducing body roll. Once you got comfortable with that add springs and shocks. Cheaper and gives you a chance to learn your car in stages.
  4. I agree with Walter, if you're looking to make the car more neutral the anti-roll bars would be the place to start.

    As for my opinion, it is inherently biased because I installed everything at once. Struts, sway bars, shocks, springs, lower control arms... etc. So I really couldn't tell you if JUST the sway bars would offer quite the same effect.

    If I were you, I would go for the anti-roll bars and a set of lower control arms. The stronger bars would give you much of the steering control you are looking for and the control arms will near eliminate wheel hop and those god awful rubber bushings. Plus, these two things wont break the budget and are rather simple to install. That's just my share of AIG, I mean my $.02.
  5. good advice,both Walter and Sanctus. I am much more excited about adding some sways then springs. Its just tempting to get a suspension package because you save money that way.

    I'll probably put on some sways and pedals before the next rack day. The questions is, should I get Eibach, FRPP, Roush, or Steeda?

    Eibach Anti-Roll Kit - $316 at (with endlinks)
    Roush Sway Bars - $592 at (unclear if that includes endlinks)
    Steeda Ultimate Sway Bar Kit - $469 at (with Billet endlinks)
    FRPP Sways - $460 at (with endlinks)

    If I get the sway bars only, Steeda seems like the best value. However, that means I'll likely stick with Steeda for all my suspension upgrades, and that means I'll eventually get the Steeda springs, which I hear can give a harsh ride. They are stiffer, linear rate springs, instead of progressive rate springs which are better for the street. I do plan on keeping the car a daily driver.

    Also, Sanctus, are you experiencing understeer with the staggered wheels?
  6. The best money spent should be on a good rear sway bar (seeing how the front is only minimally larger and increases understeer) and some LCA's. That will make the car feel more planted and surefooted. I had that setup and some rear spring installed (that was more for look) and the car drove WAY better then stock.

    I have the Roush sway bars. The rear comes with endlinks but they don't look to be the heavy duty kind. I also scored a killer deal on Roush parts from MossMuscle which is one of the sponsors.
  7. I'm very satisfied with the Eibach pieces. I can't see the other units commanding the premium price.

    But Walter, I'm wondering what you have to say about the Watts Link. Installation? Overall Effect? Any Cons? NVH?
  8. Installation was pretty easy considering a buddy and I did it in my parent's driveway, Jim Fay was also very handy and he answered his phone every time I screwed something up.

    Pros = car drives more like it would be if it were equipped with an IRS, roll center is adjustable so you can dial in your under/oversteer characteristics, more solid feel in handling, braking, acceleration.

    Cons = everything is heim jointed so there is noise when you go over bumps but not much.
  9. Well, suspension ordered. Let the waiting game begin.

    I went with Steeda rear sway bar with billet endlinks. Then I was concerned that would be too uneven with a completely stock front end, so I ordered the Steeda sport springs and four Steeda Pro-Action shocks and struts. Now with the lowering from the springs, I a already have an adjustable panhard rod and upper control arm on the future mod list. But am going to wait a month or two for the pocket book to stop smoking. I am also planning on keeping it all Steeda from here on out. I wont have to worry that things just dont work together right, and Steeda seems a bit better priced than Roush. Even if the Roush stuff is better, I am sure the difference is minimal and can be more than made up with track time practice.

    The next track day is July 31st, so hopefully the UPS man will arrive with plenty of time for the install. I am so looking forward to chucking it around the track, and actually getting the back out a bit. :D
  10. Congrats. I wouldn't worry too much about leaving the front swaybar stock it is thick enough as is. If you really want to throw some money at it and keep it Steeda you could get the front sway bar Mount brace. It allows your stock sway bar (or aftermarket) to stay put during hard cornering by anchoring a little better in theory making it a little stiffer and less compliant during turns. A cheaper alternative then replacing the thing.
  11. okay, just got back from an open lapping day at the local track, High Plains Raceway just East of Denver.

    The Steeda suspension is amazing. My last time at the track, with stock suspension, I kept getting violently whipped from side to side, as the body of the car rolled from left to right in the chicanes. Not to mention, no matter what I did last time, there was NO oversteer whatsoever, just plowing all day long. Now, its all MUCH more controlled and very neutral. Almost, more like a video game, point this way, go this way. The car is neutral in the corners, so you just rest there in a four wheel drift, give it a tiny bit of throttle to rotate the back end if you need it. Really, its effing brilliant. Just what I was hoping for.

    If anyone is keeping track, I ran a 2.29 at HPR. I have no idea if that is any good. I was not able to get a lap time with the stock suspension because I did not know about the lap timing function of the car. But I can say, on the back straight, I was able to top out third gear in stock (~100mph), and now I am able to get pretty well into fourth (~110mph)

    Funny, I ran the track several times, and kept coming up with a 2.29. I would push it hard, run it up to redline, make sure to hit dead on each apex, and get a 2.29. Then, i would lazily romp around the track, and get a 2.29.

    Got my arse whooped by a Nissan GTR. I kept them behind me for one full lap (not aggressively blocking them, just trying my damdest to keep the same speed) Finally, it was useless and I slowed to let them pass. I was pissed that I could not pull away from them. (I know, its a GTR, but you never know, maybe the driver sucks). Anyway, afterwards they driver said he was impressed with how the mustang was able to keep up, he thought I must have a supercharger. So that made me feel better.

    Oh, and, this is on Falken Ziex-912s, 235/50-18. (Stock width street tires) I think I can tell that they are now the weak point in my road holding ability. The suspension does not even seem stressed, but the tires just wont hold. I think they are great tires, just need to be wider.
  12. Awesome. Don't you just love knowing that you have more suspension then your tires can handle?
  13. yes. yes I do.

    Thanks Steeda!
  14. The beauty that is our Mustang... So easy to modify to make it more capable than that which connects us to the pavement. I certainly love it! :D
  15. You guys got any suggestions on where to find light weight racing wheels in the mustang size(websites with weight). I have been to tirerack but I didnt like any, in the size im looking for.

    Just a side question 18 x 9.5 w/ 45mm offset, is the max you can go on the front?
  16. Well, the first thing to come to mind are the Steeda Ultra Lites:

    Wheels & Tires For 2005 Ford Mustang, 2006 Ford Mustang, 2007 Ford Mustang & 2008 Ford Mustang

    I didn't find weight listed on the website, but they are supposed to not increase unsprung mass, even with the wider rim.

    If money is no option, you may also want to consider the FRPP wheels used on the FR500:

    Ford Racing Performance Parts [M-1007-F1810*]
  17. It all depends on your budget. High quality lightweight wheels will cost you a pretty penny. Try to pick up a set of Fikse or those Ford Racing FR500C wheels will run you 4K plus for a set of JUST wheels.

  18. AND.

    they require new wheel studs, which you have to buy separately.

    Crazy money. :eek:

    I would do it though. You cant just think of yourselves here, think of the larger economy.
  19. I was looking at the Godspeed Omegas they are 18 x 9 30mm at 24lbs, which from what I can see is on the lighter side. Will the 30mm offset make a big difference?