Hydraulic or Solid Roller Camshaft?

[wickedmach1]

What is the difference between a solid and hydraulic roller camshaft? What are the pro's and con's for each? Which would be better on a 393 stroker? Thanks.

 

[Ozsum2]

It's doughtful, but if I were to build anything non-stock, I'd go roller lifters because of less friction and more HP.

 

[mustang70]

The differences between solid and hydraulic roller lifters are the same as falt tappets. A hydraulic cam is good because once you set the adjustment, you never have to worry about it again. It's also quieter. However, a hydraulic cam can't spin as high as a solid. With the solid cam you have to adjust it now and then. I couldn't give you a specific time frame since it seems to be different for anyone. If you want all out power, go with the solid. If you're not concerned about high rpm's and want something you can start and drive whenever you want, go with the hydraulic.

 

[rebel65]

sorry to hijack this a little, but it's very much on the same topic...i want to switch my 289 ( short block stock ) to a Hydralic roller with some AFR165 heads..i know how to install everything, but my question is more along the lines of after it's all done..what steps would i take? i'm guessing i'm going to have to do some tuning, but i don't quite know what tuning i would be doing..

 

[wickedmach1]

rebel65,

Don't be lazy, start you own thread. Tuning after you install your hydraulic camshaft on your 289 has nothing to do with the operating differences between solid and hydraulic camshafts and which is best for a 393 stroker.

 

[66P51GT]

I would only consider a solid roller on an engine that will be used above 6500 RPM on more than an occasional basis and sees little street use. Basically a serious bracket racer or open track machine.

 

[Ozsum2]

rebel65,

Don't be lazy, start you own thread. Tuning after you install your hydraulic camshaft on your 289 has nothing to do with the operating differences between solid and hydraulic camshafts and which is best for a 393 stroker.

Wow.

 

[dolfan87]

Wow.

Yea...my thoughts exactly.

I have been a solid cam guy since I started building hot street engines. Of course, my idea of a fun saturday, includes tweaking with my carb, adjusting the valves, and washing the car.

Depends on if you want to set the valves, and then not touch them again, or if you don't mind popping open the valves covers every year or so.

With modern day posi locks on the roller rockers, adjusting the valves on a solid has decreased a lot.

I gotta get my car running...

Oh yea, and BE NICE!

 

[Great68]

I thought with solid roller cams you have to run a bronze distributor gear. And I know that those aren't very reliable, therefore wouldn't be good for a street car.

At least, that's what my friend with a 9.04 second 393 stroked Mustang told me. He also says that his valve springs would be lucky to get 100 passes down the strip.

 

[dolfan87]

I thought with solid roller cams you have to run a bronze distributor gear. And I know that those aren't very reliable, therefore wouldn't be good for a street car.

At least, that's what my friend with a 9.04 second 393 stroked Mustang told me. He also says that his valve springs would be lucky to get 100 passes down the strip.

Bronze gears don't last, but it doesn't make a difference if it is a hydraulic roller or a solid roller. Use a steel gear, and it will last a forever.

As far as valve springs go, that all depends on the size of the cam. Again that is not specific to a solid roller. You can run a HUGE hydraulic cam, and wear out parts just as easily.

87

 

[slapper]

I agree with Dolfan87 on all accounts